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Straight axle Advice

Polara Pat

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Nelson, B.C.
Having never done this before and only wanting to do it once (on this car) I'm trying to glean as much knowledge as possible before I dig in. I've been reading lots of Tedisnokes threads and watched Steve Mags dvd several times but I aint no expert. This is for my '64 330 wagon. First question: will a '64-'6? A-100 axle work without being shortened? I scored a complete assy from a '64 D-100 (I know, I know) and despite the obvious length difference, it looks really similar to the A-100 unit. Is this possible for the big truck axle to use the same diameter axle as the little van?

Any and all advice from those who have done it before is welcome. Hacking and welding is not an issue, I'm just being cautious before I make that first cut.
 
Alright, let me try to move this along some. Here's a couple pictures of the axle in question. It measures 57" from the center of each kingpin so it's definitely too long. Does it look like an A-100 though? I haven't seen one in a long time so I couldn't tell.

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A-100 axles will work (under a 62-65) without bieng shortened. I prefer them that way. All it takes is redrilled holes on the springpad part of the axle (with a relocated locator pin). Find a set of small springs or have a springshop make a set that measure 2 inches wide. Set them directly under the framerails and you should only have to drill new u-bolt (and locator pin) holes in the springpad.
As for the other axle looking like an A-100, well ya, kinda. But they're both beam axles. They all generally look pretty close except the Fords that had dips in the middle (which I think was for oilpan clearance?).
 
That's the kind of info I was after. I wasn't sure about the cut-off dates for the narrow axle. If I don't have to cut and weld it then I'll try to find another one that will work for me.

Thanks
 
I'm having a little trouble following here. Are you saying that you are looking for an axle that you will actually have to narrow?

Why go thru all that?
 
If your wanting to narrow a axle I'd like to know why as well?Every car that ran a A100 axle back then wasn't narrowed(the Grand Spalding Dodges)
 
Sorry boys, my wording was a bit weird (need coffee). I meant that if I didn't have to narrow the axle then I would be way happier. I do have the longer unit but it didn't cost much so now I'm back to plan "A" of finding the right axle that I don't have to narrow. So I need a '62-'65 A-100 assy. I'll try to find one close to home since shipping such a thing would be costly.

Now back to our regular AWB programing.
 
OK, now that we are all on the same page, then YA! Go for the A-100! The bigger axle that you have could work if you were willing to go thru all the trouble of downsizing it to fit. I wouldn't reccomend doing it, but hey... I'm a nobody and I have not written articles or made how-to DVDs (even though anybody could do them).

On a different note; I agree. Any A-100 axle in useable condition will probably cost a good chunk of change, even before shipping. They are the "hot ticket" these days (and people are butchering them like hotcakes). I got lucky and bought a reasonably-priced custom-built straight tube axle from a friend who was building a bunch of them since he had already fabbed a jig to make his own tube axle.

Some guys will talk about how an A-100 axle is too heavy and other stuff... but they are not looking at it in the same light that 60's racers were. Relocating an A-100 axle that was slotted and run without brakes and on tiny little springs was far more simple than relocating a torsionbar frontend and the A-100 (without attributes) probably wieghed atleast the same as or maybe even less than a torsionbar frontend.

Heck, some guys didn't even care about the wieght and went with the A-100 axle strictly for the simplicity. They could strip the k-member of all suspension components and leave it in place for the engine mounts and then slide an A-100 axle under the car wherever they wanted to put it (without narrowing it).


So; Polara Pat: Definetly go with an A-100 if/when you find one for reasonable money. They ARE out there. You typed 62-65 A-100 axle, but I do not know the actual years of A-100 vans that had the axle that we speak of. The 62-65 part only refers to the b-bodies that we all love so much. I think those A-100s vans went well into 1967, but I could be way off on that.
 
Right, I was under the impression that they didn't start making these vans until '64? and the narrow style may have gone to '69? Again, I'm no van aficionado but there is a yard here that may still have a couple. The weight thing doesn't bother me much (I do race a C-body wagon) and drilling those heavy I-beams shouldn't compromise safety too much unless my goal is bumper scraping wheelstands.
 
Polara Pat, drilling those old beam axles doesn't even phase them in the least bit. My dad still has a '33 Chev hotrod that he built in '65. That axle was popped full of 1-inch holes all the way across and has seen PLENTY of street time since 1965 and is still hanging in there. And that's not "streetrod" driving in and out of cruise-night parkinglots. That car still sees regular abuse with a supercharged 454.

Don't hesitate for a second to drill an A-100 axle.
 
Polara Pat - Here's another idea for you, if you don't mind a little non-Mopar mix-n-match (gasp!!) I know...

I am using a 55-59 Chevy pickup truck axle on the 62 Belvedere I am building. Chevy parts like repop spindles, kingpins, and disc brake parts are a dime a dozen and readily available. The Chevy I beam is 54 inches kingpin to kingpin, with discs will give you a 62 1/4 inch hub to hub width. (one inch narrower than an uncut A100 setup)

The chevy axle uses 2" wide springs, I am using new Jeep CJ springs from skyjacker. A saginaw 525 box will handle the front steering setup. The K frame is coming out, different motor mounts are going in

I am just finishing the parts collecting, will start welding stuff in pretty soon. Here are a couple mock up pics, etc.
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By the way, a '64 330 wagon with a straight axle is about the most mind-blowing thing I can think of!!!! Keep at it!
 
No need to chop. Sorry to have not piped in for awhile. I"ve been working on my new Comet AWB for SEMA '10, but if you can, PLEASE try to run the correct A-100 front springs. They look so much more correct than the shorter style, and you'll thank yourself for the better ride down the road. If you guys are having trouble finding the parts, I've accumulated a bit of stock, and do not want an arm and a leg. Problem is I"m out on the West Coast.

And, If possible, push the front axle centerline a bit forward, two inches or so. It has a drastic effect on the side profile of the car. A true altered, or to some, a "two percent" car!

http://public.fotki.com/teddisnoke/snokes-metal-shed/023.html
 
Funny, I got a bit side tracked with work and helping friends on their cars for a bit but still haven't lost site of the ultimate goal. Besides, I do my best work when there's snow on the ground and I'm hunkered down in my warm shop with the tunes cranked.
That being said. nice work Bbodee. That's going to be a sick awb. Maybe we have a future match race to think about. (I need two years to be realistic). I am a bit of a purist when it comes to this kind of thing though and think that a period Dodge I beam and springs should be what I'm looking for (still haven't found the one I want) Otherwise I'm going to break down and go with a tube axle (plan B). I originally thought this car would be sort of street/strip but I'm pretty much going to make it a serious dedicated drag wagon now, with sorta shiny paint.
Hey teddisnoke, e-mail or pm me with what sort of goodies you have to offer for this project. I'm in Canada but have a bunch of buddies in the Seattle area who could intercept. Maybe we have something you need for trade?
 
We'll do. But there is a auto salvage yard up their way that has quite a stash of A-100s to pull from. I want to say its called Bobcat (???) up in Oregon or Washington? Some of you may know these people. May be ceaper from a shipping standpoint.

I picked this up recently, and will be slowly disassembling for donor parts. Sadly, it was a rollover, and the body is quite tweaked, although fully operable and driveable, with a nice little 318 and a Sure-Grip:

http://public.fotki.com/teddisnoke/cars/page4.html
 
Thanks pat it's a lot of work but it will be worth it. I am also realistically looking at two years to be done as well. Match race is on!! I am pushing the front axle three inches forward from stock. I will post more as things progress.
 
Also thanks teddisnoke for sharing your wealth of knowledge. I am trying the Jeep CJ spring you suggested I look into. It is working out perfect so far for my build stay tuned to see how it shakes out.
 
Also thanks teddisnoke for sharing your wealth of knowledge. I am trying the Jeep CJ spring you suggested I look into. It is working out perfect so far for my build stay tuned to see how it shakes out.

Good to hear!
Dale
 
how close is a Ford Econoline (1964) to an A100 axle? looks? size? use-ability for an AWB.
 
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