GTX MATT
Well-Known Member
I've got for sale an engine that I was building to be a perfect street/strip engine. Its a 1968 440 that was an 70k mile stocker in my daily driver for a couple of years.
The block has been decked, line honed, bored and honed, and cleaned.
Bored .030 over
Wiseco flat top forged pistons with valve reliefs, 625 grams each
ARP Main Studs
Stock forged crank turned .010/.010
Clevite V series main bearings
Scat rods with ARP bolts
Clevite P series rod bearings
Melling HV oil pump, with ARP bolts
Comp 290XS solid cam, 252/260 duration, .540/.558 lift, 110 LSA, degreed in at 104.5 on the comp double roller timing set, with lifters
Stealth Aluminum heads, disassembled, checked and cleaned, and reassembled with Comp 925 valve springs, inner springs are out for break in. The pushrod holes have been clearanced for the 3/8 pushrods
Correct ARP head bolts
Comp 925 valve springs
Comp 10 degree locks and retainers
Comp .080 wall 3/8 moly pushrods
Edelbrock TM7 "Tarantula" single plain intake
Repop 71 Hemi oil pan, 6+ quarters, with matching pickup and a dipstick as well, and windage tray
Erson ductile iron adjustable rockers (same as factory, Comp, and Isky) with brand new rocker shafts and replacement Crane adjusters (original ones were cheasy and I didn't like them)
Water pump housing and waterpump
The pistons are .020 below deck, so with a .039 felpro head gasket the quench will measure out to .059 with 10:1 compression on the nose, so perfect for a pump gas street engine.
Main bearing clearances are .0027 and the rods are .0025
Ring gaps are set
I've aseembled the engine up once to measure deck height, degree in the cam, check piston to valve clearence, rod side clearance, and crank end play, and make sure the pushrods had enough clearance. Crank and cam spin nice and free as they should. I didn't install the rear main seal, which was rope, so I disassembled instead of trying to snake it through. I can sell you the engine disassembled, or I can assemble the short block for you, whichever you prefer. This engine is ready to go, it just needs head gaskets to assemble, and valve covers. Factory hardware is included for oil pan, timing cover, valve covers, and intake. I didn't buy aftermarket hold downs for the rockers, I have stock hardware but would recommend studding them.
I'm looking for $5200. I've got well over 6000 into it, not including the price of the core and whatnot. PM me your phone number if interested. Engine is located in Danbury, CT
The block has been decked, line honed, bored and honed, and cleaned.
Bored .030 over
Wiseco flat top forged pistons with valve reliefs, 625 grams each
ARP Main Studs
Stock forged crank turned .010/.010
Clevite V series main bearings
Scat rods with ARP bolts
Clevite P series rod bearings
Melling HV oil pump, with ARP bolts
Comp 290XS solid cam, 252/260 duration, .540/.558 lift, 110 LSA, degreed in at 104.5 on the comp double roller timing set, with lifters
Stealth Aluminum heads, disassembled, checked and cleaned, and reassembled with Comp 925 valve springs, inner springs are out for break in. The pushrod holes have been clearanced for the 3/8 pushrods
Correct ARP head bolts
Comp 925 valve springs
Comp 10 degree locks and retainers
Comp .080 wall 3/8 moly pushrods
Edelbrock TM7 "Tarantula" single plain intake
Repop 71 Hemi oil pan, 6+ quarters, with matching pickup and a dipstick as well, and windage tray
Erson ductile iron adjustable rockers (same as factory, Comp, and Isky) with brand new rocker shafts and replacement Crane adjusters (original ones were cheasy and I didn't like them)
Water pump housing and waterpump
The pistons are .020 below deck, so with a .039 felpro head gasket the quench will measure out to .059 with 10:1 compression on the nose, so perfect for a pump gas street engine.
Main bearing clearances are .0027 and the rods are .0025
Ring gaps are set
I've aseembled the engine up once to measure deck height, degree in the cam, check piston to valve clearence, rod side clearance, and crank end play, and make sure the pushrods had enough clearance. Crank and cam spin nice and free as they should. I didn't install the rear main seal, which was rope, so I disassembled instead of trying to snake it through. I can sell you the engine disassembled, or I can assemble the short block for you, whichever you prefer. This engine is ready to go, it just needs head gaskets to assemble, and valve covers. Factory hardware is included for oil pan, timing cover, valve covers, and intake. I didn't buy aftermarket hold downs for the rockers, I have stock hardware but would recommend studding them.
I'm looking for $5200. I've got well over 6000 into it, not including the price of the core and whatnot. PM me your phone number if interested. Engine is located in Danbury, CT
