Street/Strip car question

[383man]

Maybe I'm just the minority that has a built 8 3/4 holding up to abuse in a 3800lb car with around 700hp lol

I also still have an 8-3/4 in my car. But I dont race alot as its mostly just driving on the street. I race about one time a year and I dont think I will make it to the track at all this year. My 8-3/4 is basically stock with a Detroit Locker I put in it. I guess my eng makes about 600 flywheel hp or close to it through the exh and on pump gas as it has run 10.70's. But I agree if you have the money go Dana or even the Ford 9" which is a good rear also. Ron

 

[66Satellite47]

A 9" Ford is certainly a great piece, as long as you put all the right parts in it. The lower hypoid angle makes for less friction loss. But the parts combination is critical. A Dana 60 is heavy, but brute strength is there. Good aftermarket axles, spool, 1350 U joint, Dana 60 is hard to break.

 

[Hanover Mopar]

Dana 60 and cross off that part of the build

 

[LemonWedge]

My 8-3/4 is seeing extensive track usage these days. I'm in the 3750 neighborhood, foot-braking mid 11's & 60 in 1.58/9. Steel cap, spool, 35-spline axles, and backbraced. A Dana would be great, but I could build my 8-3/4 at least three times for what a Dana would cost. Now if you want to run a trans brake, the 8-3/4 is out. But for most mild street /strip type cars, I'm convinced they're a decent cost-effective option.

 

[66Satellite47]

My 8-3/4 is seeing extensive track usage these days. I'm in the 3750 neighborhood, foot-braking mid 11's & 60 in 1.58/9. Steel cap, spool, 35-spline axles, and backbraced. A Dana would be great, but I could build my 8-3/4 at least three times for what a Dana would cost. Now if you want to run a trans brake, the 8-3/4 is out. But for most mild street /strip type cars, I'm convinced they're a decent cost-effective option.

Gee seems like you have a fine axle combination there. Good axles, spool, steel caps. Should hold up really well. You will likely need to change gears occasionally. My recollection is that you do need to pay attention to what gear ratio you choose with the 8 3/4. The 4.89's get really small on the pinion teeth as I recall. My choice was a Dana 60, they are about the same cost as upgrading an 8 3/4. Everyone makes their own choices.

 

[383man]

My 8-3/4 is seeing extensive track usage these days. I'm in the 3750 neighborhood, foot-braking mid 11's & 60 in 1.58/9. Steel cap, spool, 35-spline axles, and backbraced. A Dana would be great, but I could build my 8-3/4 at least three times for what a Dana would cost. Now if you want to run a trans brake, the 8-3/4 is out. But for most mild street /strip type cars, I'm convinced they're a decent cost-effective option.

I agree and feel the same that in a mid 11 bracket car the 8-3/4 should hold up pretty good. In fact I have had a few mid 11 cars that the 8-3/4 held up fine. Myself I worry now that my 3700 plus lb car is in the 10's. So far for what little racing I do my 8-3/4 is doing good but I worry about it everytime I go racing and would love to put a Dana in my car one day. Ron

 

[Canyon707]

Dana's are tops. Just finished this one with new 410's

 

[not so famous bob]

I agree and feel the same that in a mid 11 bracket car the 8-3/4 should hold up pretty good. In fact I have had a few mid 11 cars that the 8-3/4 held up fine. Myself I worry now that my 3700 plus lb car is in the 10's. So far for what little racing I do my 8-3/4 is doing good but I worry about it everytime I go racing and would love to put a Dana in my car one day. Ron

when u start blowing one every other week end , you`ll switch !

 

[Dodge 330]

when u start blowing one every other week end , you`ll switch !

Mine was ALL brand new parts. The 7290 u-joint strap bolts started breaking and then the suregrip started making clunking noises and just went away one night at the track when we had great prep. I wasn't confident in any sure-grip or locker for long term longevity with drag radials in my Dana 60 so it got a spool.

 

[66Satellite47]

I still maintain that Dana 60 with good axles and spool will handle a lot of power. Not sure about the gear life, I never needed to change them.

Many thousand runs.

 

[Budnicks]

I had great luck with 8.750" but a Dana 60 is the way to go,
especially in a heavier car like a B-Body...
IMO if you're starting from scratch on the beginning of a build
spend the $3000 on a Dana-60 or
even better yet a Strange S-60, bolt in if need be...

Been there done that...

By the time you build a 8.750" to handle any real power over 600hp
you could have got a Dana 60 in relatively stock form that'd last,
pretty damn well...

I did have an 8.750" {Mopar 8.750" 742 center section, ring & pinion anyway}
in an altered 27 T Brogie style {Fiberglass body}
Raced in Goodguys events & SCTA or other Nostalgia stuff...
I had a 526ci alum. Milodon Mastodon Hemi/Blown Inj./Alky
1500+hp in front of it & a Clutchflite
{6.69 @ 217 best, it was a tire fryer, run in hi-6's all day @ 190+},
it lived exteremly well, I also refreshed as needed/frequently...
Albeit; it had all hi-$$$ Lenco pieces, softer style pro-gears
trussed, full floater 60 style ends, billet caps,
35 spline riffle drilled axles & spool {it also cost over $3500 in 1990's $$$'s}
the Car was 1880# chromoly tube chassis & with me
add another 225#'s at the time in it {my skinny days}
2200#'s with fuel, 3-20/firesuit/helmet, fire extinguishers etc.
the alum. Blown Hemi engine was the bulk of all the weight ...
I was going after extreme light weight,
it was the strongest lightest at that time...

It was also "Not" some 3700# full bodied car...



I don't think they even build that stuff anymore,
you could build one, from scratch Like I did,
but it's not really cost effective, when a S-60
or pretty much stocker Dana-60 would do the job very well,
at a 500-600hp {max} at the rear wheels level...
IMO when you start getting above that level RWHP,
even with a Dana-60, it needs race specific parts, for the abuse...

I did have a 8.750 with a "alum 742 MP center-section"
35 spline MW axles, green bearings & trussed, with an Eaton diff.
in my last ol' silver 68 RR went best of 8.58 @ 156 3520#'s on n2o...
9.77 @ 135 best N/A both on MT Drag Radials/CalTracs...
I never broke it, drove 12,000+ street miles & had at min 100+ passes
on the 1/4 mile testing & tuning, wasn't legal for how fast it was,
only had a roll-bar...
It's still driving around south Sacramento Co. {last he said 25,000 miles}
the guy I sold it to still runs it today, same combo freshened up,
minus the n2o & it still dips down into & runs 9.90's N/A
every once in a while & it's still street driven too...

It also cost;
$1000+ {IIRC ball park prices 2002/3-ish} for the MP alum. center section,
$500+ for the Eaton diff,
$400+ for the axles, $400-$500+ for the bearings, spacer & gears,
$200+ for misc. stuff, ends, axle bearing & the home built truss etc.
& I did all the narrowing, no labor cost, all sweat equity...
That's $2500-$2600+ with no labor cost,
you can get a nice Dana-60 for close to that, not worry...
With all of the added labor costs, if you can't do it yourself,
it'd be more than a nice "starter" Dana-60 or S-60...


Good luck the 8.750"
IMO they are also far tougher, than many people give it credit,
if set up & done properly, with quality parts/pieces...

 

[rumblefish360]

Awesome post!

 

[not so famous bob]

I had great luck with 8.750" but a Dana 60 is the way to go,
especially in a heavier car like a B-Body...
IMO if you're starting from scratch on the beginning of a build
spend the $3000 on a Dana-60 or
even better yet a Strange S-60, bolt in if need be...

Been there done that...

By the time you build a 8.750" to handle any real power over 600hp
you could have got a Dana 60 in relatively stock form that'd last,
pretty damn well...

I did have an 8.750" {Mopar 8.750" 742 center section, ring & pinion anyway}
in an altered 27 T Brogie style {Fiberglass body}
Raced in Goodguys events & SCTA or other Nostalgia stuff...
I had a 526ci alum. Milodon Mastodon Hemi/Blown Inj./Alky
1500+hp in front of it & a Clutchflite
{6.69 @ 217 best, it was a tire fryer, run in hi-6's all day @ 190+},
it lived exteremly well, I also refreshed as needed/frequently...
Albeit; it had all hi-$$$ Lenco pieces, softer style pro-gears
trussed, full floater 60 style ends, billet caps,
35 spline riffle drilled axles & spool {it also cost over $3500 in 1990's $$$'s}
the Car was 1880# chromoly tube chassis & with me
add another 225#'s at the time in it {my skinny days}
2200#'s with fuel, 3-20/firesuit/helmet, fire extinguishers etc.
the alum. Blown Hemi engine was the bulk of all the weight ...
I was going after extreme light weight,
it was the strongest lightest at that time...

It was also "Not" some 3700# full bodied car...



I don't think they even build that stuff anymore,
you could build one, from scratch Like I did,
but it's not really cost effective, when a S-60
or pretty much stocker Dana-60 would do the job very well,
at a 500-600hp {max} at the rear wheels level...
IMO when you start getting above that level RWHP,
even with a Dana-60, it needs race specific parts, for the abuse...

I did have a 8.750 with a "alum 742 MP center-section"
35 spline MW axles, green bearings & trussed, with an Eaton diff.
in my last ol' silver 68 RR went best of 8.58 @ 156 3520#'s on n2o...
9.77 @ 135 best N/A both on MT Drag Radials/CalTracs...
I never broke it, drove 12,000+ street miles & had at min 100+ passes
on the 1/4 mile testing & tuning, wasn't legal for how fast it was,
only had a roll-bar...
It's still driving around south Sacramento Co. {last he said 25,000 miles}
the guy I sold it to still runs it today, same combo freshened up,
minus the n2o & it still dips down into & runs 9.90's N/A
every once in a while & it's still street driven too...

It also cost;
$1000+ {IIRC ball park prices 2002/3-ish} for the MP alum. center section,
$500+ for the Eaton diff,
$400+ for the axles, $400-$500+ for the bearings, spacer & gears,
$200+ for misc. stuff, ends, axle bearing & the home built truss etc.
& I did all the narrowing, no labor cost, all sweat equity...
That's $2500-$2600+ with no labor cost,
you can get a nice Dana-60 for close to that, not worry...
With all of the added labor costs, if you can't do it yourself,
it'd be more than a nice "starter" Dana-60 or S-60...


Good luck the 8.750"
IMO they are also far tougher, than many people give it credit,
if set up & done properly, with quality parts/pieces...

This time , I bought a dana 60 right off the get go. shortened 1" under A body specs, w/ disc brakes, spring pads welded where I wanted them, 3;73 gears, w/ a deroit locker. the locker kicked it to $2100 , shipping hadn`t gone out of site-crazy-rapem prices , like now tho. Has a chrome cover, no room for a beefed cover, between the gas tank.

 

[actionange1]

I owned the car below- the Belvedere- for 11 years. It had an 8 3/4 it's entire life.
It was a street/strip car first and after a few years bent the housing. This was with 35 spline Moser axles and a Suregrip with 4.10 gears. I then installed a back braced housing with the same set up and ran it that way for a few more with no incident or breakage.
Then I found a deal on another forum for Mark Williams 40 spline axles and a spool with 4.30 gears. I installed and it worked fine. Eventually changed to 3.91 as I was too much RPM at the strip with the 540 stroker.
This car weighted 3750 with driver and ran a best of 9.88@ 135.
I would leave the line between 2000 to 2200 against the foot brake- so no killing dump the clutch launches.
I used what I had available and have no issues with anyone using a Dana- just my experience with an 8 3/4.
My current car- the Coronet- has a 9 in Ford cause that's what it came with. A good setup as well.

 

[dvw]

I've run 8 3/4 in 11.0 cars, never a failure. Though I've seen a few. The 1.2X 60 ft times just put the hurt on my foot braked Dana 60. At 425 passes it started to bend the teeth. Just set up a fresh 4.30. Street gear yesterday. $225 and its good to go another 400+
Doug

 

[bwheeler051]

Think long term plans with your car. We have a 74 charger that was a street stip car then turned all out race car. Its the car I learned how to race in 25 years ago. The 8 3/4 lasted forever with good parts in it. When we started bending housings and breaking caps we went to a Dana. All three of our cars have danas now.

 

[OK charger]

Well I appreciate everyones opinions and experiences. It seems that the Dana is something that will last a while and if I add anything to the motor to go faster it will be able to handle it. I guess my question is ..is the stuff from Dr. Diff good to go? Or the S60 from strange? By looking at their websites it seems you can custom order what you need and have it ready to go when you get it.

 

[1967coronet440]

Well I appreciate everyones opinions and experiences. It seems that the Dana is something that will last a while and if I add anything to the motor to go faster it will be able to handle it. I guess my question is ..is the stuff from Dr. Diff good to go? Or the S60 from strange? By looking at their websites it seems you can custom order what you need and have it ready to go when you get it.

I ordered my s60 through dr diff, all orders are custom built to your spec. Yes it's ready to go install your brakes, if you don't have brakes you can order it with new ones, instal your brake t and lines fill with fluid and bolt it up.

 

[1967coronet440]

With the strange unit it's about a 3 week turn around, I think on the moser website it says they will turn any order in 2 days so if you need it fast maybe look into a moser. Heres a pic of my s60 I just installed

 

[Mike Gaines]

Nothing as pretty as a DANA, Cal Tracs and Cal Trac 9 Way Adjustable Shocks.