Stroker 383/450 or 451 decision

[68 HEMI GTS]

Depends, cost is a very fluid thing dependent on a hp goal. If you can buy two 400's for $300 bucks that's a no brainer. Keep one to build and sell the other. I personally like 400's better than about anything.

 

[Moparman66]

That's what I've heard is that 400's are the best engine to stroke. Anyone else here had one stroked and if so what was the total cost? As I mentioned earlier I don't want it too wild, I don't need huge HP, to impress people but would like gobs of torque for use on the street. Probably go with a 3:23 sure grip so I can still run on the highway.
I have a 360 in it now that has a cam in it, probably has 10,000 miles on it. I have thought about stroking it to 408 but if I spend the money to stroke that one I may as well spend the money on a 451. I can get the trans off one of the 400's for a $100 and have that gone thru also. I imagine it currently has a 904 with the 360

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

That's what I've heard is that 400's are the best engine to stroke. Anyone else here had one stroked and if so what was the total cost? As I mentioned earlier I don't want it too wild, I don't need huge HP, to impress people but would like gobs of torque for use on the street. Probably go with a 3:23 sure grip so I can still run on the highway.
I have a 360 in it now that has a cam in it, probably has 10,000 miles on it. I have thought about stroking it to 408 but if I spend the money to stroke that one I may as well spend the money on a 451. I can get the trans off one of the 400's for a $100 and have that gone thru also. I imagine it currently has a 904 with the 360

Find out what year blocks. The 71 "230" blocks have the strongest main webbing. The "630" blocks followed and are also stout. The later ones are still good but not as sought after. I used a "630" block for my 511. Paid $300 for it last October with a trans.

 

[dieseldazzle]

I've stroked 440s 383s and now 400s all using 440 source parts with arp2000 rod bolt upgrade. They will tell you to check pin fit and good thing they were all tight. Other than that no issues. The 383 is 438 inches now and looks stock under the hood and runs great very nice smooth good power. The 440 is 55 over with 4.250 crank and awesome as well. 400 still at machine shop.

I'm in Bay Area California and I had to mag and boil all the blocks along with deck them and have the pins fitted and rods checked so with the 2200 for the kit and about 600 in block work

 

[Moparman66]

Thanks guys for the input, I look foward to more replies. Am I correct in thinking that it's better to stroke the 400 than the 360? I know that bigger is better but the 360 in the car now would be cheaper....

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

Thanks guys for the input, I look foward to more replies. Am I correct in thinking that it's better to stroke the 400 than the 360? I know that bigger is better but the 360 in the car now would be cheaper....

That's personal preference. Ask 10 people get 10 different answers. I like the big blocks better in the b/e cars because they're already at a weight disadvantage. The big blocks drag them around good. The 500ci motors drag them around like their gutted a bodies..

 

[moper]

We, are not you...lol. So decide and then stick with it.
No knowing what you have for small block stuff (engine and transmission) or what you might be getting for bigblock (engine and transmission) I'll throw these numbers out for getting something built and running in the car. Just my opinion but this is close to what it's been historically, plus some pricing increases, built to my satisfaction:
Small block 408, based on a running low-mileage 360 - $6K plus small block 727 or 904 upgrades and convertor $1800 for a total of $7800.
Big block 451-511, based on having to buy core and move on from there - $9K plus 727urchase and upgrade plus convertor $1900 plus additional big-block conversion parts (mount plates, driveshaft, headers, radiator) $1900 for a total of $12,800.
Paying others to do it for you add 25%.

 

[moper]

deleted - duplicate

 

[philcollins]

What about Scat product? Worth the price premium?

 

[Garys1969RR]

If you shop around and be patient, you can get parts for as little as: 440 crank and rods-$150, 400 motor-$300, New pistons and rings-$650, cam and lifters-$300, Timing chain set-$70, gasket set-$100 or less, bearings-$150. that comes to $1720. Then you have to turn down the crank, and may have to have the counterweights cut down .250"-$300. Then my block bore/hone, re size rods, install cam bearings and freeze plugs, new oil pump drive bushing, balancing came to $980. So you're at $2700. Oil pump $75, so $2775. That's just the bottom end, and I could have forgot something. So plan on $3000 minimum for a good bottom end. Then heads: you can do a basic valve job on the 400 engine heads, $300 to $500, (They are Prob 452s). Or you can spend $1500 to $3000 on aluminum heads. But be prepared to spend some money for some quality heads/or head work. That's where you can see some big power gains. So now you're at around $4500 to $6000, depending on your choices. So there is no simple answer here. Every build is different. Plus you have an intake to buy, carb and headers. I used the stock valve train. My 400 came with a Street Dominator, which worked great! I had about $4500 in my 451, and it put my RR in the mid 12s in the 1/4 mile. Great running combo, those 451s! Good Luck!

 

[lewtot184]

Main goal is to be reliable and getting some more HP. Not looking to be a neck breaker. I am doing a really nice roticery restoration.

Probably the biggest deviation from original will be adding disk brakes.

do a 431.

 

[dieseldazzle]

If you shop around for a 440 crank and rods they are going to 90% of the time need machine work and around here that ain't cheap.

So figure cut the crank resize the rods buy good rod bolts then balance it all. Get Pistons and rings another block plus machine work then balance it etc

For 2200 you get arp 2000 rod bolts h beam rods and modern 1/16 ring pack Pistons balanced.

And 440 source parts like any part there are those that have made insane power they shouldn't have and those that didn't make it around the block

 

[64SF]

If you shop around and be patient, you can get parts for as little as: 440 crank and rods-$150, 400 motor-$300, New pistons and rings-$650, cam and lifters-$300, Timing chain set-$70, gasket set-$100 or less, bearings-$150. that comes to $1720. Then you have to turn down the crank, and may have to have the counterweights cut down .250"-$300. Then my block bore/hone, re size rods, install cam bearings and freeze plugs, new oil pump drive bushing, balancing came to $980. So you're at $2700. Oil pump $75, so $2775. That's just the bottom end, and I could have forgot something. So plan on $3000 minimum for a good bottom end. Then heads: you can do a basic valve job on the 400 engine heads, $300 to $500, (They are Prob 452s). Or you can spend $1500 to $3000 on aluminum heads. But be prepared to spend some money for some quality heads/or head work. That's where you can see some big power gains. So now you're at around $4500 to $6000, depending on your choices. So there is no simple answer here. Every build is different. Plus you have an intake to buy, carb and headers. I used the stock valve train. My 400 came with a Street Dominator, which worked great! I had about $4500 in my 451, and it put my RR in the mid 12s in the 1/4 mile. Great running combo, those 451s! Good Luck!

That is pretty darn close on what I've spent on the 451 I'm building (hopefully start up and break next week). As he says be patient in the shopping...example: I bought an RPM intake for $125.00 from a fellow member and an outstanding Quik Fuel carb for 300.00 from another member. I bought KB pistons from CNC Motorsports (on the web) they had the best prices. Cam, lifters and springs came from Hughes. Installed the bigger valves in the 452 heads and had some cleanup done in the ports.