Stumped on this! Bought alternator today and still no change

[Rocketman]

Well, the GTX laid down on me today, come out of Walgreens and she would not start. Called my Dad who was just two miles away and we jumped it and I got home. Charged battery and then checked volts = 12.2. Check alternator with it running, no change. Took the alternator off, took it to O'Reillys and their machine showed it was charging at 9.7 volts. I bought this one to replace it with.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/ULT0/010160/01468.oap?year=1968&make=Plymouth&model=GTX&vi=1421727&ck=Search_01468_1421727_-1&pt=01468&ppt=C0330

Finally got it on, spacers were different, one connection different and had to buy a different belt to get it tight, again no charge from alternator, car would not start. Thinking about a $24.00 voltage regulator as that is all there is left to change. The battery will hold charge off a battery charger.

Just wondering it I have missed something.

thanks

 

[A383Wing]

what one connection was different? Are you running a dual field regulator?

 

[Snowtrooper1966]

I know thy kept trying to sell me a dual feed for my 66. Those seem to be more plentiful than the older correct single. With my research, if the dual is speced for a single application, they jump the second terminal...

 

[Rocketman]

what one connection was different? Are you running a dual field regulator?

The one connection that was different was the spring loaded diode that screwed down on the back. I had to remove to get mine off. The new one already had that on it so I put a "U" connector on mine and screwed it down.

I have what I thought was the original regulator:

 

[A383Wing]

"spring loaded diode"??

I'm lost now...never heard of that.

When all is hooked up, turn key on....do you have power at field terminal on alt?

Do you have power at battery terminal at all times on alternator?

 

[Cliff426]

They refer to the older style mopar alternators as "round backs"…they should still be readily available….place by me sells them rebuilt for about $65…they always try to sell you something they have in stock…you shouldn't have to start changing connectors if they give you the proper one.

 

[Rocketman]

battery is a yes, did not check the alternator since it was new and the terminal was hot when I removed the old one. If the voltage reg is bad it would keep the alternator from charging though wouldn't it and they are just $24.00.

Click on the link above and go to pic 2/5 for the alternator. The little screw to the right between the ground connect and postive bolt holds this spring loaded steel tab in the alternator. ON my old one, it had to come out, this one had it in with the screw head so a connector could be used. Maybe diode is the wrong term. I am not used to working on this older stuff.

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They refer to the older style mopar alternators as "round backs"…they should still be readily available….place by me sells them rebuilt for about $65…they always try to sell you something they have in stock…you shouldn't have to start changing connectors if they give you the proper one.

You live in Long Island, I live in a town of 20k in western KY. We have to make things work here or wait a week or two for a Chrysler part.

Almost every part in my signature came from Summit because none of it is available here in podunk.

 

[Cliff426]

IS there any one local that can rebuild your old one?

 

[Badvert65]

The one connection that was different was the spring loaded diode that screwed down on the back. I had to remove to get mine off. The new one already had that on it so I put a "U" connector on mine and screwed it down.

I have what I thought was the original regulator:

View attachment 185346

Can you post a picture of this "spring loaded Diode" ? I have never heard of one either. The picture you posted is of the regulator for the single field alternator (two connections-one bolt on and one plug in)

 

[Rocketman]

IS there any one local that can rebuild your old one?

Possibly but he is undependable and could keep it for 2 months. I left it at the parts store for a core.

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Can you post a picture of this "spring loaded Diode" ? I have never heard of one either. The picture you posted is of the regulator for the single field alternator (two connections-one bolt on and one plug in)

go back up to the link for the alternator at O'Reillys. Click on the pic 2/5 for the alternator, I am talking about the screw head that is to the right, between the ground connect and positive post. On my old one this had to be detached to come off, the one in this link it was screwed in and just needed to be connected.

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Talked to my mechanic today and I think I am going to let him change to a high output alternator with internal regulator. The electrical systems on the old Mopars have always been behind everyone else in my opinion.

 

[A383Wing]

if you put high output alternator on, be sure to either replace your engine & dash harness with a new one, or carry a fire extinguisher with you......you can also run a 10ga wire from alt to battery to take load off factory charging wires in harness

 

[Badvert65]

OK, I think I see what is going on. The 'Spring loaded Diode" is one of the brushes.

In this picture, the red arrow points to the 'Battery" connection (goes to the plus side of the battery by way of the wiring harness)
the blue arrow points to the voltage regulator connection. In this case there is ONLY ONE. This connection goes to the "Field" connector on the regulator (the one you pictures). Do not ground either of these connections. If you have ANY other connections, post a picture of it. From your description, it sounds like you added a connection-if so, what is it connected to. This alternator does not get but the two connections shown by the arrows in the picture. Just curious, what year is your GTX?

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One more thing....

The connection indicated by the green arrow does not need anything connected to it. It is grounded by the case. If there is a connector blade on it, do not connect it.
(A picture of the exact alternator you have would go a long way.)

 

[daredevil]

This site explains everything in our charging systems. Could be a break in your sensing wire. http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

 

[MoparBill]

I know it's a little off topic, but I see you have electronic ignition. Now would be a good time to upgrade to a dual field alternator and newer style voltage regulator. Year one sells conversion harnesses that are plug and play if you're not comfortable wiring it yourself. You are already buying an alternator and regulator anyway....

 

[Rocketman]

OK, I think I see what is going on. The 'Spring loaded Diode" is one of the brushes.
View attachment 185484
In this picture, the red arrow points to the 'Battery" connection (goes to the plus side of the battery by way of the wiring harness)
the blue arrow points to the voltage regulator connection. In this case there is ONLY ONE. This connection goes to the "Field" connector on the regulator (the one you pictures). Do not ground either of these connections. If you have ANY other connections, post a picture of it. From your description, it sounds like you added a connection-if so, what is it connected to. This alternator does not get but the two connections shown by the arrows in the picture. Just curious, what year is your GTX?

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One more thing....
View attachment 185488
The connection indicated by the green arrow does not need anything connected to it. It is grounded by the case. If there is a connector blade on it, do not connect it.
(A picture of the exact alternator you have would go a long way.)

My old one had a connection where that green/yellow arrow is in that second picture. When I disconnected it a spring came out with short steel rod going to the brushes. I assumed it had to be there and created a connector from what I had and reattached. I wonder if that is my issue?

I have the 68 in my signature.
My alternator looked just like this one except the it was hard wired where that screw is. It was not the original as it said "made in Mexico" when I took it off.

 

[Badvert65]

You know what, I think your old one was a 'dual field' or 'floating field' alternator (newer style). They will work in your application by just grounding one of the field connections. This is probably what some one did on your car sometime in the past. Two ways to do it, one-remove the insulating washers and ground it with the mounting screw, the other is to run a wire from the connector to ground (which is probably what was done in your case).
If I was in your shoes, I would just connect the hot terminal (battery) and the field terminal (goes directly to 'FLD' on your regulator). Unless your regulator is also bad, you should be golden. If you are not certain, get a new regulator. By the way, if the new regulator does not have anything on the bottom (that looks like a fine wire wrapped around a stick) then that is a solid state version of the factory regulator. (a good thing). Personally, I would replace the regulator anyway, just for good measure.
Good luck with this.

 

[Rocketman]

You know what, I think your old one was a 'dual field' or 'floating field' alternator (newer style). They will work in your application by just grounding one of the field connections. This is probably what some one did on your car sometime in the past. Two ways to do it, one-remove the insulating washers and ground it with the mounting screw, the other is to run a wire from the connector to ground (which is probably what was done in your case).
If I was in your shoes, I would just connect the hot terminal (battery) and the field terminal (goes directly to 'FLD' on your regulator). Unless your regulator is also bad, you should be golden. If you are not certain, get a new regulator. By the way, if the new regulator does not have anything on the bottom (that looks like a fine wire wrapped around a stick) then that is a solid state version of the factory regulator. (a good thing). Personally, I would replace the regulator anyway, just for good measure.
Good luck with this.

thanks will do. I do remember an insulating washer being under that head

that regulator was just $24.00, might as well replace it too

 

[A383Wing]

regulators are completely different between single & dual field alternators....make sure you get the right one for whatever alternator you have or are changing to...wiring is different as well

 

[Rocketman]

OK, I think I see what is going on. The 'Spring loaded Diode" is one of the brushes.
View attachment 185484
In this picture, the red arrow points to the 'Battery" connection (goes to the plus side of the battery by way of the wiring harness)
the blue arrow points to the voltage regulator connection. In this case there is ONLY ONE. This connection goes to the "Field" connector on the regulator (the one you pictures). Do not ground either of these connections. If you have ANY other connections, post a picture of it. From your description, it sounds like you added a connection-if so, what is it connected to. This alternator does not get but the two connections shown by the arrows in the picture. Just curious, what year is your GTX?

- - - Updated - - -

One more thing....
View attachment 185488
The connection indicated by the green arrow does not need anything connected to it. It is grounded by the case. If there is a connector blade on it, do not connect it.
(A picture of the exact alternator you have would go a long way.)

Well here is how I got it fixed. The connection going to the green arrow on my old one needed to go to the ground connection. Checked at 14.4- COOL

 

[Badvert65]

YAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
That wasn't so difficult, was it?