Success at painting detail on aluminum and chrome trim - finally

[VFilms]

can you explain a little more about what color rouge you used... thanks Rich

So here's a general guide: From course to fine.

BLACK = Emery Compound, a course abrasive material for removal of scratches, pits, paint, rust etc.
BROWN = Tripoli compound used for general purpose cut and color on most soft metals.
WHITE = Blizzard compound, used for color and final finish of harder metals (beware with SS), has a cutting action.
RED = Jeweler's Rouge, designed to polish without any cutting action. Safe on thin plates. Use on its own wheel.
BLUE = A dryer, almost greaseless wheel - designed to polish without any cutting action. Safe on thin plates. Use on its own wheel.
GREEN = Used exclusively for Stainless Steel.

These videos are priceless

 

[dcmason69]

I started with basic oven cleaner. Let it soak for hours but did not get the results I wanted.
Then I used caustic soda (lye) available at any hardware store. For the longer pieces I bought some household rain gutter and capped the ends to make a vessel for the piece. Used Sodium Hydroxide: Also known as caustic soda or lye (NaOH), it is the most common method for stripping anodized coating. The concentration of caustic soda is generally 2-10% of 50% liquid caustic soda by volume in water. Depending on the bath concentration and temperature, the anodic coating should strip in a few seconds to a few minutes. Sometimes longer, must keep a close eye on the process.
LEGAL DISCLAIMER: FOLLOW ALL SAFETY DIRECTIONS AND WARNINGS!!! THIS CHEMICAL CAN BE DANGEROUS IF NOT USED PROPERLY. USE PROPER SKIN AND EYE PROTECTION. KEEP AWAY FROM CHILDREN AND ANIMALS. USE IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA.
After the coating was stripped, I carefully and gently tapped out all the dings and dents. Sanded starting with 400 grit and continued to 2000 grit. Then buffed starting with a course rouge to fine rouge (changing the buffing pad with each rouge change). I do not do this professionally and some professionals may have different ideas. This is just how I did it.
https://aerospacemetalsllc.com/how-to-remove-anodized-aluminum/

View attachment 1175814 View attachment 1175815 View attachment 1175816 View attachment 1175817

 

[dcmason69]

So here's a general guide: From course to fine.

BLACK = Emery Compound, a course abrasive material for removal of scratches, pits, paint, rust etc.
BROWN = Tripoli compound used for general purpose cut and color on most soft metals.
WHITE = Blizzard compound, used for color and final finish of harder metals (beware with SS), has a cutting action.
RED = Jeweler's Rouge, designed to polish without any cutting action. Safe on thin plates. Use on its own wheel.
BLUE = A dryer, almost greaseless wheel - designed to polish without any cutting action. Safe on thin plates. Use on its own wheel.
GREEN = Used exclusively for Stainless Steel.

These videos are priceless

Thank You very much vfilm you have been very helpful, appreciate all your info only other question I have is what brand of light argent did you use? Did it come from classic in’s. Or Eastwood?
What was # and discription.

 

[AR67GTX]

I actually had my grill and headlight surrounds stripped by a plating shop (got lazy). But a couple of years ago I stripped a whole boatload of aluminum trim (inside and out), grill, tail panel, etc for a 63 427 Galaxie. I started out with Easy Off but it only works in hot weather, it’s messy and it left a very rough finish. I then tried some other stuff (greased lightning) that was basically a liquid cleaner and it worked better but the parts had to soak in it and each use was a one time only as it lost its effectiveness. This got expensive but for a few smaller parts worked pretty well. I now have some lye crystals but haven’t tried them yet. I don’t recommend the Easy Off route.

 

[VFilms]

Thank You very much vfilm you have been very helpful, appreciate all your info only other question I have is what brand of light argent did you use? Did it come from classic in’s. Or Eastwood?
What was # and discription.

I'll have to look this afternoon and let you know. There are many different brands with varying amounts of texture and metallic. Later MOPAR trim had more of both compared to my '66 Belvedere which had virtually no metallic or texture. I tested many paints against the original trim color and found one that matched almost perfectly. Just can't remember which. I'll look and get back to you.

 

[dcmason69]

I'll have to look this afternoon and let you know. There are many different brands with varying amounts of texture and metallic. Later MOPAR trim had more of both compared to my '66 Belvedere which had virtually no metallic or texture. I tested many paints against the original trim color and found one that matched almost perfectly. Just can't remember which. I'll look and get back to you.

 

[dcmason69]

Yes going down same road, tried several manufacturers and brands I just have not come up with one to my liking
Look forward to hearing what you find.
Thank You again

 

[VFilms]

Thank You very much vfilm you have been very helpful, appreciate all your info only other question I have is what brand of light argent did you use? Did it come from classic in’s. Or Eastwood?
What was # and discription.

 

[zyzzyx]

Epoxy Primer HP Direct to Anything KIT – Custom Fineline Tape & Art Supplies (cftapes.com)
This is what I found as a Direct-to-anything Epoxy primer.

 

[dcmason69]

View attachment 1175857 View attachment 1175858

Again thank you VFILMS FOR this
yes U POL products. I use there weld through primer good stuff I will get me a can of silver.
Will add you to my list of resources
Very Appeciative dcmason69

 

[gtx6970]

For me key is pull the tape before paint is fully dry.

All the trim on the front of mine was nos when the car was done.
So if you need detail pics.
Let me know

 

[Cranky]

Good info here!!

Correct - I own a 66 427 Coupe. One of the guys jogged my brain there about using the semi-etching primer and there had been a couple threads there lately about problems painting trim on console plates, etc.

Too funny. I have 66 427 Convertible. Small world I guess.

The C2's are my favorite Corvette!!

 

[VFilms]

Again thank you VFILMS FOR this
yes U POL products. I use there weld through primer good stuff I will get me a can of silver.
Will add you to my list of resources
Very Appeciative dcmason69

My pleasure
Good luck with your build

 

[AR67GTX]

Added the light metallic silver around the headlights and blacked out center bar ribs on grill(thanks for the reminder). Parking light bezels are still a work in progress. Back to my other couple hundred little tasks to get this back together.

 

[VFilms]

Added the light metallic silver around the headlights and blacked out center bar ribs on grill(thanks for the reminder). Parking light bezels are still a work in progress. Back to my other couple hundred little tasks to get this back together.View attachment 1176952

Beautiful!

 

[gtx6970]

Added the light metallic silver around the headlights and blacked out center bar ribs on grill(thanks for the reminder). Parking light bezels are still a work in progress. Back to my other couple hundred little tasks to get this back together.View attachment 1176952

Very nice

 

[GTXDAN]

Man lots of great info here. Will help with my 65 Coronet redo

 

[kbfallon]

So here's a general guide: From course to fine.

BLACK = Emery Compound, a course abrasive material for removal of scratches, pits, paint, rust etc.
BROWN = Tripoli compound used for general purpose cut and color on most soft metals.
WHITE = Blizzard compound, used for color and final finish of harder metals (beware with SS), has a cutting action.
RED = Jeweler's Rouge, designed to polish without any cutting action. Safe on thin plates. Use on its own wheel.
BLUE = A dryer, almost greaseless wheel - designed to polish without any cutting action. Safe on thin plates. Use on its own wheel.
GREEN = Used exclusively for Stainless Steel.

These videos are priceless

As you stated, I keep a buffing wheel for each compound so as to not cross contaminate the rough/fine compounds.