Superbird headlight adjustment

[repsol17]

Been searching thru many previous threads and searching over the web with no real such luck. I've learned a lot but not enough unfortunately.

My passenger side headlight is close to hitting the top outer edge in the radius area when the light is closing (see pic).

With the grille removed, it appears that there's a round plate with 3 screws in which the pivoting shaft goes thru. I also noticed what might be a white bushing possibly around the shaft as well.

Is this round plate (with screws) the culprit that allows for adjustment ? and is there another plate on the other side too..which seems impossible to get to if there is.

I did loosen up the 3 screws pretty much and I couldn't budge the fixture. So before I created an "OOPS..SH$T" I stopped.

Can anyone explain what's need to be done ? Is there a rebuild kit of sort too ?

Thanks again

 

[Jerry Hall]

Mine was finished for all practical purposes in 2004. I know that a friend and I worked about a week of our spare time trying to get those things to fit the hole. There is no way in my opinion to make that happen. You adjust one thing and something else changes. I found no manual or written procedure to help with this. We did this with the nose off the car. I don't think you will be able to make adjustments with the nose on the car.

 

[repsol17]

Mine was finished for all practical purposes in 2004. I know that a friend and I worked about a week of our spare time trying to get those things to fit the hole. There is no way in my opinion to make that happen. You adjust one thing and something else changes. I found no manual or written procedure to help with this. We did this with the nose off the car. I don't think you will be able to make adjustments with the nose on the car.

That was a question I forgot to ask....does the nose need to be off and if so is it pretty self explanatory to remove or is there hidden secrets (bolts) ..lol

 

[dadsbee]

If you pull the "latch tray" out you can probably work away at it, but as Jerry says would be a LOT easier with the nose off the car.

Latch tray removed, 2 lower fender extention to "bumper" bracket bolts on each side removed and then the two large "bumper" bracket bolts to frame out and pull nose forward. I do it myself (on and off)... but DON'T!! Have a few friends help.

Page 4 and 5.. nose off.. nose on..
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...or-bust-1970-super-bird-cleanup.173290/page-4

 

[Jerry Hall]

That was a question I forgot to ask....does the nose need to be off and if so is it pretty self explanatory to remove or is there hidden secrets (bolts) ..lol

You have a basically flat plate under the car, not sure on the number of bolts, probably 12-15. Your lower fenders, and spoiler comes off. Then your bolts like bumper bracket bolts. Also the latch tray has to come off. Disconnect your wiring connector and vacuum conections before removing too. The only thing I not sure of actually having to come off is the lower fenders. When you get too that point you should easily know.

 

[repsol17]

With this all being said..taking the nose off, is there another adjustment plate on the outer side of the bucket ? Is this what I'm looking for (I would think so) ?

 

[dadsbee]

Just the two bolts from the lower fender extension to the "bumper" bracket need to be removed on each side. The extensions will just hang out of the way after that. Don't forget the ground wire from nose to rad support and the vacuum line connections as Jerry pointed out.

 

[Jerry Hall]

Just the two bolts from the lower fender extension to the "bumper" bracket need to be removed. The extensions will just hang out of the way after that. Don't forget the ground wire from nose to rad support and the vacuum line connections as Jerry pointed out.

There were 5 of us when the nose went on mine for the last time. One under the car, one on each end, and two in between. PITA. Three of us did it the numerous times we were fitting everything.

 

[Jerry Hall]

That's what I like a man with the pictures at his fingertips.

 

[dadsbee]

I only had myself to "fight" with Jerry! LOL

 

[repsol17]

Great info Jerry and Wayne, I really appreciate it. Something tells me that even after the nose is removed that I still have my work cut out for me with the adjustments..lol

I knew there was a reason I saved your pics Wayne from your previous thread..lol

It's never that easy..lol

 

[dadsbee]

I remember a three bolt pivot holder per side, but can't recall what if any means there was to move side to side in the hole. When I hit the shop tomorrow I'll stick my head in there and see what I can make my brain recall !

 

[Jerry Hall]

I only had myself to "fight" with Jerry! LOL
View attachment 872406 View attachment 872407 View attachment 872409 View attachment 872411 View attachment 872416 View attachment 872419

Now I know those hood pins have multiple purposes.

 

[repsol17]

Now I know those hood pins have multiple purposes.

Jerry...I said the same " are those straps around the hood pins"...love it

 

[dadsbee]

A life time of working alone.... teaches a few tricks! Straps x'd and used to pull the nose up tight while I tightened the "bumper" bracket bolts back in place.

 

[Hemirunner]

I remember a three bolt pivot holder per side, but can't recall what if any means there was to move side to side in the hole. When I hit the shop tomorrow I'll stick my head in there and see what I can make my brain recall !
View attachment 872428

The adjustment plate with the pivot in the center is retained on three studs with nuts. Remove the nuts and the plate can slide as it’s slotted. You can flip the plate or turn it so it slides in a different direction. It’s a really under engineered system but it works. Here’s my home made version.

 

[dadsbee]

Thanks, yes the three bolt and slots allow for a change of centerline and up/down positioning. Looks like repsol needs a bit of side to side that maybe some plastic spacer washers would cure.

Either way.. I looked today and Jerry is correct. Only way this tinkering is happening is with the nose removed.

 

[repsol17]

Thanks, yes the three bolt and slots allow for a change of centerline and up/down positioning. Looks like repsol needs a bit of side to side that maybe some plastic spacer washers would cure.

Either way.. I looked today and Jerry is correct. Only way this tinkering is happening is with the nose removed.

Well I was able to actually lean over (a heavily covered) nose to reach and loosen the 3 nuts on the outer side. And I'm able to move the bucket up and down. But I really need to go side-to-side or left to right about a 3/16"

Hmmmmmm.......

 

[dadsbee]

Maybe you can use some long needlenose / forceps to pop a (split) plastic spacer over the shaft, with the headlights open, to shove it over.

 

[repsol17]

Maybe you can use some long needlenose / forceps to pop a (split) plastic spacer over the shaft, with the headlights open, to shove it over.

May need to start thinking in that direction

With the help of voice command to phone for a picture I was able to get a blind shot.

It appears the same on both sides. The red arrow is pointing at a retaining ring which is on the opposite side shaft as well. I noticed a white bushing just beyond that which appears good plus I can't see how that bushing would control side-to-side movement. I would think some wobble on the shaft if that was bad.

I can't wrap my head around what would allow movement side-to-side and lock it in place.