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Sure Grip Repair

texas69bee

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I am in the middle of rebuilding my 8 3/4 axle. Can the suregrip be rebuilt for a 69? If not what do you recommend? Auburn gear, Trutrac, Detroit Locker or any others. For a car that may only see a track a few times but mostly for the street.
 
Rebuild it, these are really solid units and easily rebuilt but the tougher part is setting up the gears. There's contact patterns, backlash, bearing preloads that all have to be done properly for it to live and operate quietly. I did a thread on the process when I rebuilt mine in hopes that it might help others and asked a few of the more knowledgeable members to join in incase I screwed up, it operated perfectly with no issues.

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopar...ebuilding-an-8-3-4-489-sure-grip-differential
 
Is it a clutch or cone? Clutch is super easy, cone....send off to forum member Cranky. I think he's the one that rebuilds those.
 
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From the pick it appears to be a cone. Thanks for the info about cranky, wish I would of known sooner but already having a guy helping in Fort Worth. I thought the cones were non serviceable. The originals were manufactured by Borg Warner which is now Auburn Gear. If the one I have is determined to be non serviceable, what do you guys think of Auburn gear or other brands?
 
I would look for a clutch sure grip if it cant be rebuilt.
 
The clutch sure grip I believe was used up to 68 and then replaced with the cone style in 69. Are you recommending the clutch because it's repairable or be cause it's just a better functioning unit?
 
The clutch sure grip I believe was used up to 68 and then replaced with the cone style in 69. Are you recommending the clutch because it's repairable or be cause it's just a better functioning unit?
Based on your needs you noted above, Yes! If your performance needs were on a higher level than I would recommend a new aftermarket posi unit. 8 3/4 posi units either cone or clutch are tough as nails for street/mild strip use.

As far as which one is better, I rate the clutch unit mainly because of access to parts to repair it.

Basically, you can drop the money on a aftermarket unit or drop much less on a rebuild and yield the same results/reliability based on your needs.
 
Based on your needs you noted above, Yes! If your performance needs were on a higher level than I would recommend a new aftermarket posi unit. 8 3/4 posi units either cone or clutch are tough as nails for street/mild strip use.

As far as which one is better, I rate the clutch unit mainly because of access to parts to repair it.

Basically, you can drop the money on a aftermarket unit or drop much less on a rebuild and yield the same results/reliability based on your needs.

Thanks, this helps a ton as well as all the other comments. I'll post later on if there are any other needs.
 
There's a difference between "non-serviceable" and "un-serviceable". The cone assembly is deemed non-serviceable because no replacement parts were ever made for it. That's not to say the unit is un-serviceable.

The cone assembly uses springs to maintain tension, and like any springs that are kept under constant load, the springs in the unit become compressed over time and no longer maintain contact like they should and the unit starts slipping. Although the springs can not be replaced, the unit can be serviced by opening it, placing washers under the springs so they are lifted and able to once again make the contact they used to, and closing the unit back up.

There are several how to's on the net about how to do this.
 
i may be wrong here but it's my understanding that the cone to carrier surfaces wear and that reduces the spring tension. whether the springs need shimed or shimming the "spider" gears is best, i'm not sure. also, you need to look carefully at the cross pin. they wear out and beat up the carrier and that will render the carrier useless.
 
If spring pressure is lost and you rebuild that same pressure back with shims. What's the longevity of the unit at that point?
 
Is it a clutch or cone? Clutch is super easy, cone....send off to forum member Cranky. I think he's the one that rebuilds those.
Yup....been at it for over 30 years :) Thanks for the mention.

There's a difference between "non-serviceable" and "un-serviceable". The cone assembly is deemed non-serviceable because no replacement parts were ever made for it. That's not to say the unit is un-serviceable.

The cone assembly uses springs to maintain tension, and like any springs that are kept under constant load, the springs in the unit become compressed over time and no longer maintain contact like they should and the unit starts slipping. Although the springs can not be replaced, the unit can be serviced by opening it, placing washers under the springs so they are lifted and able to once again make the contact they used to, and closing the unit back up.

There are several how to's on the net about how to do this.
Never had one where the springs were not up to doing their job but when the cones gets machined more than once or twice, then you might want to shim things but shimming is mainly to keep the spider gears in correct contact with the side gears. I will shim between the cone and side gear and not the springs. Main reason is that it's much easier and I use shims from a Ford dealership.

Rusty takes off .100" off the face of the cone cones. Most I've done is .030. Never seen a need to take off anymore than that. Taking off more only makes the cone thinner and has less contact with the carrier case...ie, it makes for a thinner cone to grab and lock up the unit. The O.D. of the cone is what grabs.

i may be wrong here but it's my understanding that the cone to carrier surfaces wear and that reduces the spring tension. whether the springs need shimed or shimming the "spider" gears is best, i'm not sure. also, you need to look carefully at the cross pin. they wear out and beat up the carrier and that will render the carrier useless.
Right and as the cone wears, it'll finally bottom out offering no more grab. And the cross shaft (pin) wears whenever the cones become bottomed out in the carrier case and it becomes a one wheel peel. Most will not ease off of them and just keep on frying the one tire. That works the hell out of the spiders...which ride on the cross shaft which in time will gall and cause the pin to break the anti rotation pin and spin in the carrier case which in turns ruins the case. The cone unit was never intended to that that kind of abuse so that's what happens. It's kinda odd that an open diff can take it though lol but they are made differently in that area. Once a cone unit becomes a one wheel peel, quit trying to make it lock up because it's not going to happen. If you quit hitting it once you notice it's not acting (there's that word again) like a posi, chances are very good you won't damage it any further and it can be made serviceable again. Some years back I ran across a guy that was welding up carriers where the pin spun and took a good look at the machining time and costs to do one and decided it wasn't worth it but now that they are becoming scarce, I may give it a shot.

- - - Updated - - -

If spring pressure is lost and you rebuild that same pressure back with shims. What's the longevity of the unit at that point?
I've been working on a buddies 8 3/4 who races a heavy loaded out Challenger RT. Power windows, PS etc. He runs mid 11's with it and the 2nd time I machined the cones, I added shims but like I mentioned earlier, I do that to keep the spiders in correct contact with the side gears. I think it was like about 15 years ago that I did it the first time and 7 or 8 years ago I did it again. He pretty much only races the car with very little street use.
 
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Cranky... Wow! You guys are in deep with lots of experience. Thanks for your input as well.
 
Cranky... Wow! You guys are in deep with lots of experience. Thanks for your input as well.
Sometimes I think about not having so much experience and being a lot younger and not feel like crap so often lol
 
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