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Surface rust?

moparvinson

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Working on a 73 road runner with top areas that has surface rust. What is best way to remove it? I bought the drum type sander from harbour freight but haven't tried it yet. Thanks
 
surface rust, you can sand off by hand. What are you trying to do,touch up? Post some pics and what you want to do for finish outcome.
 
Gonna be a complete strip and paint. Been sitting for a long time, sides are still good. Was wondering if I could use duct tape in a small square at a time and use evapo rust on the flat areas.

20240915_124555.jpg


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I use 3M rust stripper wheels chucked in a drill. There are also non-3M brands out there. There are not fast like blasting, but otherwise the most effective thing for flat and rounded surfaces like body panels. Been using them to strip cars for years.

3M "9099NA Paint & Rust Stripper"​

 
Evapo rust will not help you on that. Im doing a 70 charger now,will not be a show car. I would pull hood and sand down on top and uses a stripper on bottom side of hood. You could prime and paint. I stripped my car down and going to epoxy prime and then paint. Dont know what you want to spend or finish your shooting for. Some cs
 
Bottom of hood and engine bay are still in good shape, just Sun baked top areas.pretty sure a new harness will be needed. Lol

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Evapo rust will not help you on that. Im doing a 70 charger now,will not be a show car. I would pull hood and sand down on top and uses a stripper on bottom side of hood. You could prime and paint. I stripped my car down and going to epoxy prime and then paint.

I disagree.... I've used evaporust on similar rust.... I used a couple terry towels, laid them over the rust then poured Evaporust on the towels... Re-wetting them every couple hours.... It did a great job...
 
Thing is, rust leaves pits... If you don't dig deep into the metal sanding & scotchbrite type products just remove the stuff above the surface... Evaporust will get down into the pits.. The pit will still be there but it won't be hiding active rust... Surfacing primer will take car of it....
 
I disagree.... I've used evaporust on similar rust.... I used a couple terry towels, laid them over the rust then poured Evaporust on the towels... Re-wetting them every couple hours.... It did a great job...
I agree but its really is made for putting something in it ,soaking. I would think that would be time consuming. JMO
 
I agree but its really is made for putting something in it ,soaking. I would think that would be time consuming. JMO
It was time consuming, I had the towels on the hood for three days before I was sure it had done all it was gonna do...
 
Like I already posted, rust will still be living in the tiny pits... Take your pick, Evaporust/rust convertor/metal prep... Don't just paint over it & trust it to stay gone.. I've seen guys try that before...
Agree, I had planned on sanding to just knock off the majority of the rust before treating the rest
 
A DA sander 'orbital type' works great
if you don't have a compressor, an electric will work but won't last as long
& the pneumatic type "usually" require a constant ton of cfm,
min. of 5 cfm flowing to some like 8 cfm flowing, at like 90psi

Tool - DA orbital sander Rand Ingersal Pnuematic.jpg
 
Any type of mechanical sander/grinder will NOT get all the rust pits out, it may be good to get the worst of it off and then use Evaporust or a rust converter. Be very carefull not to build up too much heat and dig too deep or the whole panel will be as wavy as the ocean.
 
Last time I did something like that I started with a big wire cup on my 7.5" giant angle grinder. You will want some type of dust mask it will make a cloud. It will also remove a lot of that without heat. Note: NOT the twisted cable style. Just regular wire cup. One $20 cup can do a lot of work for you. As in more then one project. On a side note I also find them useful to determine the extent of damage on stuff like floors or trunks, because it will shine it up enough to see just how bad the pitting is, how solid the metal actually is.

Once all the bulk/loose/scaly stuff is gone, I used a combo of an regular orbital sander with a sandpaper disc stuck on it and a smaller air tool with the 3M discs as mentioned above.
If you think you have pitting, which you will with that level of rust, converter is fine or if you are really worried about it evapo-rust, clean it off well, then do your converter/primer.

Have fun! Cleaning something up like that is very satisfying I think.
 
Last time I did something like that I started with a big wire cup on my 7.5" giant angle grinder. You will want some type of dust mask it will make a cloud. It will also remove a lot of that without heat. Note: NOT the twisted cable style. Just regular wire cup. One $20 cup can do a lot of work for you. As in more then one project. On a side note I also find them useful to determine the extent of damage on stuff like floors or trunks, because it will shine it up enough to see just how bad the pitting is, how solid the metal actually is.

Once all the bulk/loose/scaly stuff is gone, I used a combo of an regular orbital sander with a sandpaper disc stuck on it and a smaller air tool with the 3M discs as mentioned above.
If you think you have pitting, which you will with that level of rust, converter is fine or if you are really worried about it evapo-rust, clean it off well, then do your converter/primer.

Have fun! Cleaning something up like that is very satisfying I think.
So, a cup brush, dust mask, and a lot of nasty dust, then a little evaporust...... Or, a few terry towels, some Evaporust & a little time...
 
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