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suspension bushings rubber vs other

67belvedere/225

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Now that i have my engine and tranny out. i am going to replace front suspension bushings
and rear spring eye and shackle bushings
who recommends what . I'm not racing just a 225 auto in my 4 door belvedere
and what brand does any body recommend
Thanks
 
great thats what i was leaning towards , super pro has some good bushing similar to rubber but not for this car
i have installed them on a tr 6 and really works well, how hard is it to get the torsion bars out to replace the bushing in the front lower control arm?here is my girl with engine out. winter is long here , so these ail keep me busy for while

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great thats what i was leaning towards , super pro has some good bushing similar to rubber but not for this car
i have installed them on a tr 6 and really works well, how hard is it to get the torsion bars out to replace the bushing in the front lower control arm?here is my girl with engine out. winter is long here , so these ail keep me busy for while

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its very easy when you do everything at once.dont even need torsion bar tool,just tap out with hammer.
 
its very easy when you do everything at once.dont even need torsion bar tool,just tap out with hammer.
ok cool look like the same set up as a e-type jag that i did last month, i will slack of adjustment boost and remove the nut and it just comes out the back?
 
moog rubber they sell it as a kit for front rebuilds.
 
thanks , i will look them up , the ball joints are tight its the rubbers look like there tearing and coming apart
what the place to buy them from summit ?
 
Personally I like a little more stiffness in most areas. So for a street car I do polyurethane everywhere except the lower control arm bushings - those I keep rubber. Once the LC arms go poly the whole feel of the car changes for me, and it get's a lot rougher IMO. But front spring eyes, shackles, upper control arms, sway bars, strut rods all go poly. And install them with antiseize on them or they will squeek.
 
do you use copper antiseize on those poly bushings?
 
67belv there is a snap ring at rear of rear mount for torsion bars that has to be removed before bars will slide to the rear.
 
67belv there is a snap ring at rear of rear mount for torsion bars that has to be removed before bars will slide to the rear.
 
Copper or aluminum base doesn't matter. Some bushings come with a non-petroleum based grease for the same purpose but I've always used just plain antiseize.
 
I always used rubber. Tried poly once never again.
I was at Ray Bartons and went out for Pizza with Ray. I was discussing My son red lighting in the Finals. He told me it was the car more then my son. And showed me what they did on the Hemi SS cars. We copied it and will be putting it on.

This eliminates the wheel assembly being forced back when foot braking. When leaving off the brake the wheels lunge forward. They also extended the pitman and idler 3 inches to move the center link back ??..

Steve 075.JPG Steve 120.JPG Steve 072.JPG Steve 073.JPG
 
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Yeah - rubber mounted strut rods move around a lot. That's why urethane in that position is a good idea. I think the longer steering levers help with bump steer - like coming down from the off-the-line wheelstand. Can't think of much more it might do aside from give better oil pan clearance too?
 
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