Swapping Center Chunk - Any Advise

[The Satellite Cometh]

Guys,

I am going to be swapping out my 2.76 8 3/4 rear (741 case, small pinion) with a 489 case 3.55 Sure Grip unit very shortly.

The entire "drop" or "center chunk" will be swapped.

Do any of those on here have any advise for me? I am not a mechanic by any stretch and will be doing this myself or with my brother in law who has swapped a rear in a Ford Bronco in the past.

Is there anything I need to pay special attention to? Any special tools needed? Any adjustments necessary?

The center section was cleaned up, rebuilt, new Tinken bearings and has a new set of Motive Gear 3.55's in it.

Thanks for all the help guys, this is my first major project with my car.

Don

 

[Cranky]

I left a reply in the other forum but this is what I said.....First off, make sure the splines inside where the axles go in are in alignment. If they are not, you will have some problems getting the axles in all the way. Also, make sure the center thrust pin is in place. If it's not, you will never be able to adjust the axle's end play. If you cannot get the axles to go in all the way, do NOT put the nuts on and try to pull them in as you will only bend the retainer plates. Other than that, it's straight forward. I use a floor jack these days instead of trying to boyhandle them in and out....they're 80 lbs at least. You might also make notice of what yoke is on the new one. It may not be the same.

 

[The Satellite Cometh]

Thanks Cranky! Appreciated.

 

[383man]

Cranky is right. As long as the center thrust pin is in there you will be able to adjust the axle end play. You use the adjuster on whatever side it is on as it is in the retainer plate where you bolt the axle up. You use a dail indicator if you can get one and adjust the end play to around .005 to .009. You only have to check it on one axle as thats why you need to be sure the thrust pin is in the carrier as the axles butt up against it and they will both move the same as it will push the thrust pin against the other axle and it will butt against the retainer plate. Then you just turn the threaded adjuster until you get what you want and then install the lock. Ron

 

[The Satellite Cometh]

I appreciate it. The new 489 case I bought is rebuilt with new bearings all set up with 3.55's in it - I saw the yellow marking glop on the gears so I am pretty sure it was all adjusted. Bought it from a very highly rated eBay seller that I have grown to trust.

What kind of silicone bead should I apply to form the seal? Any torque specs for the bolts?

My car is a '68 Satellite with the 2.76 rear now, so I am about 95% sure it is the small yoke. The new rear has the small yoke too.

Hopefully the 3.55's will get the car moving with the 727 TF tranny and .509 Purple Shaft.

 

[Cranky]

Wasn't too long ago that gaskets were still available at the local parts houses and it's a lot faster to just stick one on and be done with it. Here's a link for torque values.
http://www.morbark.com/service/belttorque.pdf

 

[daredevil]

I appreciate it. The new 489 case I bought is rebuilt with new bearings all set up with 3.55's in it - I saw the yellow marking glop on the gears so I am pretty sure it was all adjusted. Bought it from a very highly rated eBay seller that I have grown to trust.

What kind of silicone bead should I apply to form the seal? Any torque specs for the bolts?

My car is a '68 Satellite with the 2.76 rear now, so I am about 95% sure it is the small yoke. The new rear has the small yoke too.

Hopefully the 3.55's will get the car moving with the 727 TF tranny and .509 Purple Shaft.

You do understand they arent talking about adjusting the chunk but the axle end play right?

 

[1badgtx]

I use the right stuff for silicon...Petty Blue 67 gTx

 

[howiedodat]

I would suggest that you get all new inner seals and gaskets for the axle plate and brake backing plate as well as new wheel bearings while its apart. Unlusss the the bearings are known to be newer. Make sure you support the axle while installing it in the hosing. If you knock the spring from the inner seal or damage it, it will leak. Not right away, but it will leak. My $.02