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Switched from wanting a 4 link to Caltracs in the course of this thread.But sliders or shackles?

I have been to an 1/8 mile track on the Carlisle weekend and used the street tires.My slicks are 10.5w.......
If you want dedicated track tires then use slicks.If they will stay on most of time that the ET streets will work.

Last month in Brooklyn NY.........

Order1076-8x10.jpg thumbnail.jpg
 
If you want dedicated track tires then use slicks.
There may be some races where I would be more competitive in a "street legal/DOT class" vs an outright slick, but I hear ya...
It is nice to be able to drive to the track and race on the same tires, in that it saves time and money, and for the rare "street sprint" it's nice to have tires that hook vs spin and smoke.
I definitely wouldn't use the M/T ET bias ply tires I showed as a street tire! No way!
Those would have my car spinning like a tornado if I happened to get caught in the rain or hit a wet patch of street or highway.
That's what I like so much about my Toyo Proxes TQ drag radials! The Nitto 555R drag radials I used to have on my Conquest TSi spun me out on a freshly wet highway, and I was disappointed by that under the circumstances. The Toyos have been great. The problem is traction, but I've had so MANY things working against grip that I can't even evaluate the Toyos as to how well they may perform.
So I'm going to get all of my gear upgraded and then I can judge the effectiveness of the Toyos, and go from there.
 
I really like being able to put such surprisingly wide tires on these 9" Year One aluminum Rallye wheels, with everything else stock...315/35/17
INFLATED OVERALL DIAMETER (IN.)25.6 INFLATED OVERALL WIDTH (IN.)12.6
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But I have to say, I love the look of big FATTIES on a B-Body!
Screenshot_2014-09-14-13-48-40.png
Screenshot_2014-09-14-13-52-10.png
Screenshot_2015-12-22-12-42-11.png

Oh YEAH!! :thumbsup: :bananadance::moparsmiley:
 
I happen to have a subscription to Power Nation, so I just watched the part on them back halfing the A body...
Well that DEFINITELY isn't happening to my Roadrunner...
Thanks for the video though!
From a 60ft and beyond traction perspective, from what other guys, some into the high 9s have said, I probably don't have to do anything to fit a wider tire, spring relocate or maybe mini tub at the most, and that would let me keep the back seat. So if I don't need to do anything to get grip, I still may relocate the springs inboard, and I would mini tub and address the trunk pan all at the same time, but that would be more for aesthetics, although it would probably expand the kinds of tires I could use, like drag radials that I'd be happy and safe with on the street in that wider width, would get me the same grip as say bias ply barely legal M/T ET Street tires.
 
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Your feed & return go into the rail,are they run through the rail or go through and run the outside of the rail?
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HemiItis I think you're asking about my fuel line? I don't have a return, just deadheading. But yes the fuel line runs through the frame rail, through the frame connector tube and out of the frame at the torsion bar crossmember.
 
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HemiItis I think you're asking about my fuel line? I don't have a return, just deadheading. But yes the fuel line runs through the frame rail, through the frame connector tube and out of the frame at the torsion bar crossmember.
Looks like one going to each rail,did you put rubber hose around the line or does it just lay in there.Mine runs outside the rail.
 
Looks like one going to each rail,did you put rubber hose around the line or does it just lay in there.Mine runs outside the rail.
Looks like one going to each rail,did you put rubber hose around the line or does it just lay in there.Mine runs outside the rail.
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My fuel line in the frame has rubber hose around the outside of it. I see what you mean about running to the other rail but it heads to the fuel cell on the left side. I installed a fuel shut off as well.
I have another car and the fuel line runs along the frame connector not far from the exhaust system. The fuel gets pretty hot, in the frame rail should be a safe cooler place.

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For me, the 275/60/15 MT ET Street Pro is the best tire. I drive them on the street the same way I race them:18 psi. Never an issue with swaying or acting funny. The car runs straight as an arrow on the track and street. If it rains park the car! It sprinkled a little on us one night and getting on an on-ramp, the tires spun very easily at light throttle. They actually wear decent, too! A light, quick burnout is all that is needed to get them really sticky!

For street "activities", we leave in 2nd gear and put about 100 lbs. in the trunk to hook.

For true street tire races at the track, we run a 400 treadwear tire, put weight in and leave in 2nd as well. I managed a 1.72 60 ft. doing this. It's really difficult with the torque we make to get off the line..

Nittos are trash. Too hard to ever hook at the track. We call them Shittos around here.

One last point: We moved the upper shock mounts outward to get the shock in a more vertical position based on what I had read on elsewhere. I did not do before/after testing to confirm but the end result speaks for itself.
 
The main advantage of sliders is that you can get the rear of the spring in the correct location. I'd weld them. Want to remove them later? Careful use of the cut off wheel and no one would ever know. The stock shakels location is to far rearward if you want to run maximum separation. Radials like a lot of separation. I agree with the Cal Tracks for street strip. In my mind there is no logical reason to replace the stock front suspension. Possibly aftermarket upper arms to gain adjustability. Other than that the cost isnt worth the return. We've been 1.38 on Cal Tracks, split monos, and radials at 3750lbs. Stock front suspension, good shocks. I personally have over 2000 passes in B Bodys that have been all the way to 150 mph. Cal Track, ladder bar, 4 link. They all steer fine with stock front suspension.
Doug
 
Thanks Doug. There was a ? I wanted to ask you specifically because of a post you made or a car you own but I can't remember it right now.
My front suspension could never be aligned to the degree it needs to be, in several attempts with well known old school alignment experts.
I found the LCA on the passenger side was bent, and I replaced it with a used stock unit from Stephen's Performance because I wasn't aware of other options. The passenger side grill/headlight area are wacky in that there is some slight misalignment, and I suspect there may have been some accident related damage to that area.
The final straw was the nut on the UCA cam adjustment bolt came off at Cruisin the Coast 2018, and wore the tread off my tires w/in 1 day. I had the nut replaced, but a year later at CtC 2019, I had to replace my front tires again due to extreme wear in the same place-the inside 1/4 of the tread surface.
So I'm absolutely happy changing EVERYTHING including the K-member for QA1 parts, except for the UCAs which are SPC because they allow for the greatest range of adjustment.
If I ever have the car blasted for a repaint, I may find out more then about the passenger side front damage, or I may address that as a separate repair.
 
My knowledge comes from being a GM dealer tech. Spent over 20 years doing frames and suspension. The heim style upper arm will allow additional adjustment to allow it to come into spec. Though there are some items that could be bent causing it to drive poorly. If the toe and camber are in spec it wont wear tires. Pretty easy to check for bent items. This is the 9.55@142 Cal Track car
Doug
Scott at Quaker.jpg
 
My knowledge comes from being a GM dealer tech. Spent over 20 years doing frames and suspension. The heim style upper arm will allow additional adjustment to allow it to come into spec. Though there are some items that could be bent causing it to drive poorly. If the toe and camber are in spec it wont wear tires. Pretty easy to check for bent items. This is the 9.55@142 Cal Track car
DougView attachment 869751


Such a cool car!

Tubular K's and control arms are nice in a full on race effort, but mine is a street car. I've been amazed at what stock parts are capable of!
 
I've been amazed at what stock parts are capable of!
I'm convinced from function that my rear factory leaf springs are worn.
When faced with choices, with the help of forum members :thankyou::luvplace:I decided Caltracs were my best option.
 
I was talking about frontend.
Well given the problems I've had, and it may have something to do with the K-member, although I don't know, or whatever damage occurred that has the passenger front a little wacky on fit and finish, and the cost of a used junkyard lower control arm from Stephens Performance, I am absolutely confident and satisfied with going all new QA1 w/SPC UCAs. Now as soon as my 6 piston all around Wilwood disc brakes come in, and because of a recommendation on the forum all new stainless steel brake lines from Inline Tube, I will go from looking at parts in a box to seeing what all those parts feel like to drive. The Borgeson power steering box will likely be part of the install too, if I can get the Wraptor installed between now and then.
 
Remember the Popeels pocket fisherman commercials? CalTracs on the ‘Cuda felt like the related bounce-a-matic products for sale. Hard to believe anything could ride so bad. Hard to describe the rebound. Head for the ER.
 
I really like being able to put such surprisingly wide tires on these 9" Year One aluminum Rallye wheels, with everything else stock...315/35/17
INFLATED OVERALL DIAMETER (IN.)25.6 INFLATED OVERALL WIDTH (IN.)12.6
View attachment 867422 View attachment 867424
But I have to say, I love the look of big FATTIES on a B-Body!
View attachment 867426 View attachment 867427 View attachment 867428
Oh YEAH!! :thumbsup: :bananadance::moparsmiley:
[/QUOTHERENA
Here are my big tires on my B-body 64 Belvedere


15.jpg14.5Wx32x15 with 105" rollout on my 64 Belvedere mounted on 15x15 Weld Wheels.
 
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