Taking Up New Residence
- Thread starter khryslerkid
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Factory nuts had a rectangle stamped in the side to deform nut to act as a locknut.
MW 413
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Yes you are correct, Chrysler and others used pinch nuts.
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Finished up all the small parts, backing plate ect. Ready for assembly of the new axles from Doctor Diff.
First thing you have to do after pulling out the original tapered axle is to remove the old inner seal and replace it with a new one supplied by Dr. Diff.
Then you have to replace the origanal studs with longer ones. Supplied by Dr. Diff.
Line up the knurled studs with the ones left behind by the originals and a couple of washers, some grease, and run them home. I used a battery powered impact driver. A ratchet would have worked just fine. There wasn't that much resistance and these are a lot better than using loose bolts!
Useing the steel gasket behind the backing plate.
I used just one nut at the bottom to temporarily hold the backing plate while installing the brake hardware. It's a lot easier without the flanged axle in the way, so I took advantage.
First thing you have to do after pulling out the original tapered axle is to remove the old inner seal and replace it with a new one supplied by Dr. Diff.
Then you have to replace the origanal studs with longer ones. Supplied by Dr. Diff.
Line up the knurled studs with the ones left behind by the originals and a couple of washers, some grease, and run them home. I used a battery powered impact driver. A ratchet would have worked just fine. There wasn't that much resistance and these are a lot better than using loose bolts!
Useing the steel gasket behind the backing plate.
I used just one nut at the bottom to temporarily hold the backing plate while installing the brake hardware. It's a lot easier without the flanged axle in the way, so I took advantage.
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Remove the temporary nut and washers.
Useing a compressed foam gasket supplied by Dr. Diff. It's used as a spacer for the thickness of the snap ring on the Green bearing.
A little grease.
The new drums fit! No dragging on the backing plate.
Useing a compressed foam gasket supplied by Dr. Diff. It's used as a spacer for the thickness of the snap ring on the Green bearing.
A little grease.
The new drums fit! No dragging on the backing plate.
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I've been researching tires a little. Wanting a 60 series but something nostalgic looking. 15x8 4 1/2" backspace.
Kid, I noticed you changed up to a different self adjuster set up. Were you having problems getting the replacement spring kit from Napa? I cannot seem to get the same as what I removed!
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Useing a '70's backing plate and hardware. Found a 1973 date code on the cross bar. E body. Those adjuster setups changed like the weather through the years but they all work. Bought the backing plates complete with hardware.
Shoot me a pic of what you're looking for.
Mine is stock 10 inch, exactly the same as you took off in the video. No biggie, My napa guy should have something tomorrow.
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Finished the opposite side and installed the brake lines.
It amazing how these parts clean up the way that they do. Just useing a fine wire wheel on a bench grinder, then a coat of wd.
Painting the outside of the drums, then on to the front brakes.
It amazing how these parts clean up the way that they do. Just useing a fine wire wheel on a bench grinder, then a coat of wd.
Painting the outside of the drums, then on to the front brakes.
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Going over the front brakes, I discovered someone turned the right drum about .060 over specs. The adjuster was cranked out almost all the way out, (no good!)
So I'm needing another drum and I'm looking at the hub to drum swedged studs. Looking up new drums, the part number is the same front and back, just no hub. The shoes are the same front and back also. I decided to remove the swedged studs, go with new removable drums.
Here's what I'm dealing with.
Center punch each stud on the back side. Then drill a pilot hole approximately 1/2" deep or even a little more. Then step up to about a 5/16" bit and finish with a 1/2" bit.
You can see the 1/2" bit breaking through the swedged area. You'll feel it when drilling. That's where you can stop.
Useing a punch, you can drive the threaded part of the stud out through the drum.
Now you need to fold the tabs inward and drive the remaining stud back through the hub.
So I'm needing another drum and I'm looking at the hub to drum swedged studs. Looking up new drums, the part number is the same front and back, just no hub. The shoes are the same front and back also. I decided to remove the swedged studs, go with new removable drums.
Here's what I'm dealing with.
Center punch each stud on the back side. Then drill a pilot hole approximately 1/2" deep or even a little more. Then step up to about a 5/16" bit and finish with a 1/2" bit.
You can see the 1/2" bit breaking through the swedged area. You'll feel it when drilling. That's where you can stop.
Useing a punch, you can drive the threaded part of the stud out through the drum.
Now you need to fold the tabs inward and drive the remaining stud back through the hub.
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Didn't ruin the drum or hub doing it this way. Installed the hub on the spindle and set a new drum on there to see how it fits. (Borrowed the drum from the back) Looks good, I'll have to take the hub to NAPA to match up some new studs.
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What size? Have 4- 11"x 3" front drums no hubs brand new. Had these 30 years one set is made in Canada other maybe USA. Set I don't know aren't Chinese.
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Kid, I am surprised you are not moving up to Disc Brakes! You're Hard Core Old School !!
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Well I thought I would go this route first. I'm reminded of a friend back in the day running a '62 Savoy, built up 383 running in the tens. He would use up the whole shutdown area at one of the local tracks we ran at. He had drums all the way around. Also the '64 Polara 500 I once owned had standard brakes and a single master and I don't ever remember having problems stopping that tank. If I don't like the setup I'll go with disc.
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