Tell me if my thoughts make sense

[Centerline]

You can convert your tapered axles to slip on drums easily and with no need to spend the $$$ to swap to a later housing or new axles. Just follow this link to see how easy it is. Total cost is 10 new wheel studs from NAPA and a couple '65 or later brake drums.

http://hotrodsandhemis.com/TaperedAxleBrakes.html

 

[toolmanmike]

You can convert your tapered axles to slip on drums easily and with no need to spend the $$$ to swap to a later housing or new axles. Just follow this link to see how easy it is. Total cost is 10 new wheel studs from NAPA and a couple '65 or later brake drums.

http://hotrodsandhemis.com/TaperedAxleBrakes.html

But that's just a brake conversion and not a axle conversion. I think the op want's to get rid of the tapered axles.

 

[Red63440]

But that's just a brake conversion and not a axle conversion. I think the op want's to get rid of the tapered axles.

Correct, the tapered axles are a huge pain especially when you need a puller and a sledge to check your brakes.

 

[YY1]

Post 21 does say "slip on drums".

 

[barbee6043]

Post 21 does say "slip on drums".

Like said there, the point is to get to where you have slip on drums!!!!! I agree pulling the hub is a pain in the arse.
Most early B body guys have routinely gone to post 64 8 3/4 rears for decades. But they are getting harder to find and cost more $ all the time.
If you are not going to be changing out pumkins all the time, why not pull the hub for the drum conversion, change out to new axle bearings/seals and you are done?

 

[Red63440]

Dr. Diff sells the axle conversion for $450.00 but then you also need to do the brake conversion and if you get everything for them it’s another $470.00 so now you are up to $970.00. Buying a complete rear end is a lot cheaper and I would like to enjoy the car instead of constantly working on it.

 

[black64]

I am in the process of pulling the rear hubs on my 64 Fury.. The idea was to just replace the bearings and seals but holy ****, I can't see going through this every time I need to check my brakes. So after reading several posts I figured well...I will go to Dr. Diff and buy the axle conversion and buy the backing plates kit, that should run me about $970.00 if I buy everything from Dr. Diff.
Here's the question, wouldn't be just be cheaper to buy a later year B body housing WITH the axles and backing plates for a few hundred and just install it after installing new bearings, seals and my center section? Am I missing something here??

Or you can cut the wheel studs swedge off and the drums will be removable and you would not need to pull the axels to get to the brakes. Any machine shop should be able to do that then just install lugs from 65 and up.

 

[barbee6043]

^^^^Yea thats what we keep saying!! lol
Dang Skippy it ain;t that hard!

 

[Red63440]

What I found when I removed the passenger side axle was that the race had spun in the flange which caused the flange to be oversized. I have been working two days to get the driver side axle removed but it’s frozen…yes I am using the dog bone puller.

 

[Jerry Hall]

The driver's side drum on my 56 Desoto took 4 days to release. Every day I would come in and smack the puller with a 3lb hammer. On the 4th day I was doing something else and had already smacked on the puller, when it sounded like a shotgun went off in the shop. The other side only took about 3/4 of a day to release and sounded like maybe a 22 rifle. Mine is all back together as original. Drums just needed a skim cut and the shoes were sent off and restored. Where do you find 12" drums and shoes without breaking the bank?

 

[YY1]

If the OP has a damaged flange, he might as well just get a complete non-tapered housing from a 65-67.

Those are not as pricey as 68-70 anyways.

 

[Dave6T4]

The newer rear ends are also easier to set up axle end play if you are changing pots for gear ratio selection. No more playing around with shims. If you are looking for originality when not running hub caps on the rear end, some guys have epoxied a dummy nut and stud to the newer axle.

 

[Red63440]

I just returned from picking up a clean, non rusted 68/70 rear end complete with axles and backing plates with 2.5” x 11” brakes and finned drums. 54 15/16” flange to flange which puts it in the heavy duty class for the GTX’s and probably RT’s. I was looking for 2.5”x10” but these will work!

 

[Jerry Hall]

 

[GrabberOrange69]

You scored, dude!

 

[Red63440]

You scored, dude!

I cleaned the bearings today with solvent and brake cleaner, repacked them slid them into the housing and spun them a few times. I removed them and packed them again and put them back in the housing to protect them. Housing has been sanded and painted and is good to go.

 

[Ron H]

Reminds me of the job putting in a 65 Dodge rear in my 63. Got a powder coating kit to coat the housing. This was nearly 20 years ago and the coating has held up great. Kinda regret trashing the 63 works being a CA car the housing was like new and never though about 'someday' someone wanting this. Did the same with pulling out the bench seat to install buckets never thinking someone might want it. Guess I only keep stuff nobody will ever want, lol.

 

[Gus chiggins]

I am in the process of pulling the rear hubs on my 64 Fury.. The idea was to just replace the bearings and seals but holy ****, I can't see going through this every time I need to check my brakes. So after reading several posts I figured well...I will go to Dr. Diff and buy the axle conversion and buy the backing plates kit, that should run me about $970.00 if I buy everything from Dr. Diff.
Here's the question, wouldn't be just be cheaper to buy a later year B body housing WITH the axles and backing plates for a few hundred and just install it after installing new bearings, seals and my center section? Am I missing something here??

Get the later b body housing.