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TF2 shift kit question

RJ Squirrel

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Hey transmission experts, I have my 727 apart after the torque converter failed, cleaning it up, putting in new frictions and seals, and a TF2 shift kit.
The shift kit came with a blank orifice plug for the front clutch feed in the case, no hole in it. Should I start with a small .080 or so hole and try it, or go bigger?
Also the clutch pack had 9 springs in it, should I add more while I have it apart?
 
Hey transmission experts, I have my 727 apart after the torque converter failed, cleaning it up, putting in new frictions and seals, and a TF2 shift kit.
The shift kit came with a blank orifice plug for the front clutch feed in the case, no hole in it. Should I start with a small .080 or so hole and try it, or go bigger?
Also the clutch pack had 9 springs in it, should I add more while I have it apart?
Hey Squirrel! That cup plug should have been drilled at production. I have the size written down some where, I will get back with that size. As I recall the instruction sheet tells you spring numbers for the combination you are building. The variable spring numbers allow tuning the shift timing.
Mike
 
.080" sounds about right. Trans Go's tech line is great. I've talked to them many times. Give them a call.
Doug
 
eck... i don't remember that plug at all when i did mine.... now something new to make me obsess about :)
 
9 springs are ideal. Don't use a blocker rod under the accumulator. Just leave the spring out. If you have a 2.9 or 3.2 ratio kickdown lever, you might want to change it up to a 4.2, and leave the large diameter spring out from under the kickdown servo piston.
 
Thanks guys for the replies, I thought it was odd the directions just said put this plug in this hole, and it is a solid plug. I think it was just a mistake the solid plug was put in the kit. I found online after some searching anywhere from .080 to .140, with .100 being the sweet spot. The size usually pre-drilled in the kit to .130-.140. from what I have found.
The transmission is from a 78 truck with 4 gear front planetary and PTKD. It was in real good shape before the converter let go. I bought a deep pan for it too.
 
It slows down the flow to the 3rd gear clutch so it does not apply until the 2nd gear band lets go completely. If you are not getting binding between 2nd and 3rd then you dont need to worry about leaving it out.
I hope I explained that right, please jump in here guys if I left something out.
 
It slows down the flow to the 3rd gear clutch so it does not apply until the 2nd gear band lets go completely. If you are not getting binding between 2nd and 3rd then you dont need to worry about leaving it out.
I hope I explained that right, please jump in here guys if I left something out.
Ahh.. thank you RJ.. my kit didn't have the plug or the page showing it.. my instructions looked like a 100th copy of a xerox copy :) I shoulda looked online. When i first did mine it had 2-3 overlap pretty bad.. i loosened the front band a touch and it went away, i am planning to pull my valve body this summer and might add the plug also while in there
 
So from what I understand, too small of an orifice will cause an rpm flare between 2nd and 3rd, and some will tap the bore and install a brass plug orifice to make it easier to change. I am hoping to not have to do all that and get it close the first time!
 
So from what I understand, too small of an orifice will cause an rpm flare between 2nd and 3rd, and some will tap the bore and install a brass plug orifice to make it easier to change. I am hoping to not have to do all that and get it close the first time!

My 1-2 is pretty weak 2-3 hits really nice... not sure why yet, i need to adjust my TV some (throttle bracket moved and i didn't notice) and i think i am going to block the accumulator. I didn't want crazy hard 1-2s like my last trans but it's a bit too soft. Fun stuff playing with it :)

I am curious (someone will know) How much TV mis-adjustment will weaken shifts or lose downshift at WOT? Don't think TV pressure is my issue since 2-3 hits hard though.

Sorry for talking all over your thread RJ.. just stuff coming to mind as i read it.. and not worth a new thread :)
 
All things needed to be discussed before I put mine back together!
I overthink and over-worry.. i put my trans together twice before it went in the car... ran the car for 30 seconds and heard a noise... pulled it out and went through it a third time. I make myself nuts.. BUT.. it's a small block pushbutton and getting the '65 tailshaft was a pain. Didn't wanna take a chance on hurting anything
 
I’d tap the case for a 3/8-16 and put a set screw with an orifice drilled in it. That way you could easily change it by replacing it with another drilled set screw.
 
Hey transmission experts, I have my 727 apart after the torque converter failed, cleaning it up, putting in new frictions and seals, and a TF2 shift kit.
The shift kit came with a blank orifice plug for the front clutch feed in the case, no hole in it. Should I start with a small .080 or so hole and try it, or go bigger?
Also the clutch pack had 9 springs in it, should I add more while I have it apart?
It's been awhile since I installed a shift kit, but I believe the solid plug is for the governor passageway to eliminate all auto operations as in a TF-3 kit or B&M manual-pack kit.

Hey transmission experts, I have my 727 apart after the torque converter failed, cleaning it up, putting in new frictions and seals, and a TF2 shift kit.
The shift kit came with a blank orifice plug for the front clutch feed in the case, no hole in it. Should I start with a small .080 or so hole and try it, or go bigger?
Also the clutch pack had 9 springs in it, should I add more while I have it apart?
 
Don't use a blocker rod under the accumulator. Just leave the spring out.
Transgo instructions say to leave it in.

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Last edited:
Hey Squirrel! That cup plug should have been drilled at production. I have the size written down some where, I will get back with that size. As I recall the instruction sheet tells you spring numbers for the combination you are building. The variable spring numbers allow tuning the shift timing.
Mike
.147"
Mike
 
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