Propwash
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Not a problem sir, glad to help. :tiphat:
The Ram Man - Max assist TANDEM Bendix booster & 1.125 Bore HEMI Master Cyl.
- Thread starter TekHousE
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It is good to learn.... for the guys with AM factory radios the pump would be annoying and obnoxious... I agree with propwash .. just everything I have run that wouldn't pull a booster was so loud I never noticed the pump.... LOL
TekHousE
Well-Known Member
HI guys..
Well it's in!
A few things for those considering this..Or, those that did this or something similar to DRUMS (all around) cars. I read a lot of BS as it turns out, about how doing this to a manual ALL Drum setup will put your head through the windshield when stopping.
In fact right after fitting this I would agree..Except for the fact that you really WILL need to check all drums and their respective adjustments.
Firstly, once fitted your brake pedal will now be level with your accelerator. For those that had manual brakes, this is going to take a little getting used to. I personally like it as it is very similar to my new Audi A5.
On the first road test I noticed 2 things immediately.
1. My pedal travel was obviously greatly reduced.
2. For the first half of travel there was NO BRAKING! eek!
So I looked at the rear brakes first. Wayne had mentioned that you will need to check all the tolerances and adjustment for the rear brakes. The problem most people have is having none of the 30% percent or so of rear braking for the first half of pedal travel. Then WHAM! The fronts kick in at 70%!
Not a huge problem at speed..But a little bloody exciting at low speed or in traffic!
Ask me how I know!
But after adjusting ALL drums, and in my case I had to adjust plenty for the rears, I now have progressive braking again. Pedal has hardly any free play, and I can feel braking come on early, meaning the rears are kicking in first.
Overall..I am really happy. It's like a new car. It would be tempting to see if I can out brake new cars now, but I realize that drums will still fade with increased heat. But for what I do with the car these are now excellent and light years ahead of manual brakes.
In the sake of complete transparency. I did have one other small problem which is now fixed.
The pressed Master Cyl. cover had a slight "high" area between the 2 compartment 'domes' (don't know if there is a correct term for those). The pressing was a little too much and when the cover was on the master cylinder, it was rocking on the camber. I used a small hammer, a wood block and a metal bar like a 'dolly' and gave it a few swift hits. The high area flattened out and the cover fits perfectly. Unfortunately the fluid leaked and has taken some of the black off of the cylinder body. But that is an easy fix.
If I had caught this issue prior to fitting it I would have fixed it first. But I wanted to mention it in case someone else does this and hopefully you can now check this BEFORE installing and filling with fluid.
Well it's in!
A few things for those considering this..Or, those that did this or something similar to DRUMS (all around) cars. I read a lot of BS as it turns out, about how doing this to a manual ALL Drum setup will put your head through the windshield when stopping.
In fact right after fitting this I would agree..Except for the fact that you really WILL need to check all drums and their respective adjustments.
Firstly, once fitted your brake pedal will now be level with your accelerator. For those that had manual brakes, this is going to take a little getting used to. I personally like it as it is very similar to my new Audi A5.
On the first road test I noticed 2 things immediately.
1. My pedal travel was obviously greatly reduced.
2. For the first half of travel there was NO BRAKING! eek!
So I looked at the rear brakes first. Wayne had mentioned that you will need to check all the tolerances and adjustment for the rear brakes. The problem most people have is having none of the 30% percent or so of rear braking for the first half of pedal travel. Then WHAM! The fronts kick in at 70%!
Not a huge problem at speed..But a little bloody exciting at low speed or in traffic!
Ask me how I know!But after adjusting ALL drums, and in my case I had to adjust plenty for the rears, I now have progressive braking again. Pedal has hardly any free play, and I can feel braking come on early, meaning the rears are kicking in first.
Overall..I am really happy. It's like a new car. It would be tempting to see if I can out brake new cars now, but I realize that drums will still fade with increased heat. But for what I do with the car these are now excellent and light years ahead of manual brakes.
In the sake of complete transparency. I did have one other small problem which is now fixed.
The pressed Master Cyl. cover had a slight "high" area between the 2 compartment 'domes' (don't know if there is a correct term for those). The pressing was a little too much and when the cover was on the master cylinder, it was rocking on the camber. I used a small hammer, a wood block and a metal bar like a 'dolly' and gave it a few swift hits. The high area flattened out and the cover fits perfectly. Unfortunately the fluid leaked and has taken some of the black off of the cylinder body. But that is an easy fix.
If I had caught this issue prior to fitting it I would have fixed it first. But I wanted to mention it in case someone else does this and hopefully you can now check this BEFORE installing and filling with fluid.
MT_Mopar
Well-Known Member
Hey Tek, that booster looks great, glad its working good for you too.
Thanks for sharing your info and install - great stuff!
Thanks for sharing your info and install - great stuff!
Dragon Slayer
Well-Known Member
So you put this in a 4 drum car? Did Wayne modify the MC for you? The hold off valves would only be in the rear, not front, unless he added another. The MC for power drum was different. What is your Distribution T, proportioner set up? Is it Stock? My car had Power Front disc added by the owner back in the day, but all Mopar RR parts were used including the hemi Master Cylinder. The MC was sticking so I replaced it with a Centric version. If I painted it black you would not be able to tell either. I have my Hemi (casting # and dated coded MC) to rebuild. Nice installation, I had to do some tweaking on that forward brake line to make sure it doesn't rub on the inner fender well. G
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Thanks for following up with this. Too many times, people start threads and disappear. People that post to offer help are left in the dark wondering what happened with the project.
Looks like it worked out well for you. I may call the man to see what he can do for me. I have a 4 wheel disc setup and the car just doesn't stop as well as it did with disc/drum.
Looks like it worked out well for you. I may call the man to see what he can do for me. I have a 4 wheel disc setup and the car just doesn't stop as well as it did with disc/drum.
Car Nut
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Is this for a rebuilt or repop?
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You got a good deal for what you paid 495.00
TekHousE
Well-Known Member
new.
Car Nut
Well-Known Member
Wow, you got a heck of a good deal!
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