The under 5K paint job thread
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Rob Hollinger
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hashmaker
Well-Known Member
Body and paint course at local community college $240
PPG 2 stage Paint and materials $560
Doing it all yourself...priceless
PPG 2 stage Paint and materials $560
Doing it all yourself...priceless
YY1
Well-Known Member
@Rob Hollinger
Is that a 361 car?
There was one for sale near me in that same color combo.
Very solid except for a few 50 cent piece rust holes in what I thought were odd locations and just a hint of cowl rust.
I had bought my 73 just a few weeks prior. Stopped to look at the coronet and it was the same price!
Saw it a few weeks later (might have been the Webster swap meet) and the asking price was 3 times more!
Is that a 361 car?
There was one for sale near me in that same color combo.
Very solid except for a few 50 cent piece rust holes in what I thought were odd locations and just a hint of cowl rust.
I had bought my 73 just a few weeks prior. Stopped to look at the coronet and it was the same price!
Saw it a few weeks later (might have been the Webster swap meet) and the asking price was 3 times more!
r4sedan
Well-Known Member
I'm on the westcoast of FL. I dropped my BB Challenger off at a local shop a week ago.
They are painting car door jambs trunk and engine compartment. Now keep in mind I dismantled the car before I dropped it off. There is very little bodywork needing done. The owner Mix's his own paint. $3600 Paint, wet sand, Buff and add stripe. He does all the old cars in this area.
They are painting car door jambs trunk and engine compartment. Now keep in mind I dismantled the car before I dropped it off. There is very little bodywork needing done. The owner Mix's his own paint. $3600 Paint, wet sand, Buff and add stripe. He does all the old cars in this area.
barbee6043
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No doubt he does good work, if the paint goes on perfect metal, that is a good price. The average resto requires patch panel work so that can add more up quick. Reasonable and finding a shop that des resto work at fair price is not easy in most areas.
YY1
Well-Known Member
@r4sedan
Care to give out a name and location?
That's the point of this thread- to hook up members with local affordable paint and/or body guys.
I sure would be interested in getting an estimate from that guy.
Please note (again) that my $5K price target reflects very minimal body work.
As I said in the OP, about 8 quarter sized shopping cart dings, a 3/16th by 3/8 swipe, and the very beginnings of pitting in the 3/8" extreme window corners- no rust through at all.
I'm not really interested in "most cars need a lot of rust repair and it costs 10K in repair and 10K in paint" posts.
Care to give out a name and location?
That's the point of this thread- to hook up members with local affordable paint and/or body guys.
I sure would be interested in getting an estimate from that guy.
Please note (again) that my $5K price target reflects very minimal body work.
As I said in the OP, about 8 quarter sized shopping cart dings, a 3/16th by 3/8 swipe, and the very beginnings of pitting in the 3/8" extreme window corners- no rust through at all.
I'm not really interested in "most cars need a lot of rust repair and it costs 10K in repair and 10K in paint" posts.
Ceedawg
Well-Known Member
Back in 1999 I painted my race car in a little over an hour. Pearl Yellow, that’s base, pearl, clear coat. Using my “vacuum cleaner” hvlp gun that I use to paint my cabinets. If the “painters” get $4-8000 to paint for one hour, I’m in the wrong business. Now I can see body work is labor intensive and the hours do add up. It took me about a year (in my spare time) to prep the fiberglass body plus make the doors, fenders, hood & scoop. That would be big money.
barbee6043
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I have "done" quite a few of my driver quality cars, Yes I can do perfect if I put enough time and effect in it. Do I work near as fast as a pro? No. Do I do any cars for hire, Heck NO!!
No two cars ever seem to be the same. Amount of rust, how straight, still wears its OEM paint from the factory or been painted 10 times, previous body work??????? Years back LIke late 80's to bout '95, I had a couple of guys that did my body work, one did it after hours, he worked in a 2 man body shop. The other guy lived 50 mi from anywhere he had done everything from chopping tops, to frenching lights on hotrods, building engines, he could do it all, and could down a case a beer a day. He did perfect work too. The other guy did most my cars, he was about 25, the mechanic at a county road garage, self taught everything, he did perfect work. All was very affordable back then. Back then, as in now, not much money in buying a (desirable) good project car, doing a correct nut/bolt resto, selling it in the middle of rural America. But I did learn about how and why and costs of body work.
I learned that body work in HARD work. I enjoy cutting out the rust, fabing panels that can not be bought, the welding, etc. I learned where to buy good primers that works for me and are affordable. I learned that after I moved to Tx, I have NO bodyshop here I would and could take a car to. As in can't afford, or don't trust, and know NOT to take it to a certain shop or type of shop. So I continue on with my driver quality work.
I can put a pencil to what I spend and what works for me, and the costs of materials never reaches those figures I see people mouthing on these sites. I said materials, not labor.
At 71 I am bought wore out.
No two cars ever seem to be the same. Amount of rust, how straight, still wears its OEM paint from the factory or been painted 10 times, previous body work??????? Years back LIke late 80's to bout '95, I had a couple of guys that did my body work, one did it after hours, he worked in a 2 man body shop. The other guy lived 50 mi from anywhere he had done everything from chopping tops, to frenching lights on hotrods, building engines, he could do it all, and could down a case a beer a day. He did perfect work too. The other guy did most my cars, he was about 25, the mechanic at a county road garage, self taught everything, he did perfect work. All was very affordable back then. Back then, as in now, not much money in buying a (desirable) good project car, doing a correct nut/bolt resto, selling it in the middle of rural America. But I did learn about how and why and costs of body work.
I learned that body work in HARD work. I enjoy cutting out the rust, fabing panels that can not be bought, the welding, etc. I learned where to buy good primers that works for me and are affordable. I learned that after I moved to Tx, I have NO bodyshop here I would and could take a car to. As in can't afford, or don't trust, and know NOT to take it to a certain shop or type of shop. So I continue on with my driver quality work.
I can put a pencil to what I spend and what works for me, and the costs of materials never reaches those figures I see people mouthing on these sites. I said materials, not labor.
At 71 I am bought wore out.
r4sedan
Well-Known Member
I'll PM my name and phone number. You can call him. I don't think its my place to put his name on an open Forum. I do think it would be worth your ride. I've seen where people spend 10-12K on paint jobs and his look better. And your car won't be in paint prison.
r4sedan
Well-Known Member
Your inbox is full I'll try you on the A-body forum.
YY1
Well-Known Member
They did a great job fixing the shopping cart dings.
They did a "B" job on the small side swipe.
Much better than it was but it needed one more application I'll live with it as you only notice it if it's pointed out.
They didn't completely paint the windshield areas around the seals (?!?)
That's the main reason it's going back, as you can see where they didn't paint below the trim when it's on.
Maybe they were used to gm trim that overlaps more.
They got 2 runs that need to be addressed.
...and for some reason they didn't take out the fake scoop inserts and they painted those really thick, which ran onto the hood and then cracked.
They also said the hood was giving them fits and that's why it took weeks longer than they quoted, even though I advised them not to spend a lot of time in it as it may end up being a temporary hood. I even told them not to pint the underside, which I had already pinted semi-gloss black, but they did any way.
Some minor dust and imperfections in the pint, but I asked for driver quality and I'm OK with that.
It's scheduled to go back Tuesday.
They did a "B" job on the small side swipe.
Much better than it was but it needed one more application I'll live with it as you only notice it if it's pointed out.
They didn't completely paint the windshield areas around the seals (?!?)
That's the main reason it's going back, as you can see where they didn't paint below the trim when it's on.
Maybe they were used to gm trim that overlaps more.
They got 2 runs that need to be addressed.
...and for some reason they didn't take out the fake scoop inserts and they painted those really thick, which ran onto the hood and then cracked.
They also said the hood was giving them fits and that's why it took weeks longer than they quoted, even though I advised them not to spend a lot of time in it as it may end up being a temporary hood. I even told them not to pint the underside, which I had already pinted semi-gloss black, but they did any way.
Some minor dust and imperfections in the pint, but I asked for driver quality and I'm OK with that.
It's scheduled to go back Tuesday.
r4sedan
Well-Known Member
Good glad you got it done. What did it cost you?
YY1
Well-Known Member
$2000
I also got about $400 in paint, reducer and hardener which I bought and supplied.
If the touch up/blend comes out good, I'll give them a glowing endorsement.
It is definitely better than I could have done.
(Although I'm sure I could have made those runs all by myself)
This shop just moved here from another nearby county.
I have a suspicion this is one of their first jobs and possibly that they may be training a new painter.
The next guy might not get that good of a deal.
However, I also need my Dakota painted in BC/CC.
...and again, I don't particularly care to spend 5K on a truck that's only worth 5K, maybe.
I also got about $400 in paint, reducer and hardener which I bought and supplied.
If the touch up/blend comes out good, I'll give them a glowing endorsement.
It is definitely better than I could have done.
(Although I'm sure I could have made those runs all by myself)
This shop just moved here from another nearby county.
I have a suspicion this is one of their first jobs and possibly that they may be training a new painter.
The next guy might not get that good of a deal.
However, I also need my Dakota painted in BC/CC.
...and again, I don't particularly care to spend 5K on a truck that's only worth 5K, maybe.
65Fury440
Well-Known Member
I live in Spring Hill FL. There's a retired body guy in Dade City with a really nice paint booth in his barn. He did the BC/CC and some body work on my car in my avatar for $1800, plus
me supplying the materials. It came out better than I expected.
YY1
Well-Known Member
See, this is what I'm talking about.
To all the naysayers early in the thread that said you couldn't possibly find anyone to paint a car for less than $10,000-
We have now found two places in central FL that will do it for less than $2500-$3000!
My hope is that more of us can find places all over and others can use that info.
To all the naysayers early in the thread that said you couldn't possibly find anyone to paint a car for less than $10,000-
We have now found two places in central FL that will do it for less than $2500-$3000!
My hope is that more of us can find places all over and others can use that info.
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Haven’t paid a lot of attention, but what were the actual quotes/work for?
BC/CC?
Blocking and sanding?
Engine bay?
Trunk?
Inner doors?
Inner fenders, and undercoating them?
BC/CC?
Blocking and sanding?
Engine bay?
Trunk?
Inner doors?
Inner fenders, and undercoating them?
YY1
Well-Known Member
I painted the engine compartment about 2 years ago.
My paint cost includes that as well.
Single stage.
Sand to bare metal and fix 7 shopping cart dings and 1 minor sideswipe (3/8")
Paint underside of deck lid and gutters but not inside trunk
Paint door edges and jams but not interior face of doors
I removed all trim, handles and bumpers plus the lights and buckets.
No rust to repair other than the surface rust that was starting where the paint had shrunk and cracked, which was the reason for the repaint.
They also cleaned up a poor factory lead seam at the quarter to roof joint.
(I did another one at the A pillar to roof joint)
My paint cost includes that as well.
Single stage.
Sand to bare metal and fix 7 shopping cart dings and 1 minor sideswipe (3/8")
Paint underside of deck lid and gutters but not inside trunk
Paint door edges and jams but not interior face of doors
I removed all trim, handles and bumpers plus the lights and buckets.
No rust to repair other than the surface rust that was starting where the paint had shrunk and cracked, which was the reason for the repaint.
They also cleaned up a poor factory lead seam at the quarter to roof joint.
(I did another one at the A pillar to roof joint)
grtflred
Active Member
Try living in NJ. All the body shops want to paint Audis and BMWs for collision repairs and a quick 5 to 20 grand. No one will touch my purple beast, needs a few scratches touched up.
The car was originally painted in FL. LOL. I bought it because the body and paint work was already finished. Might just ship it back down and enjoy it during the winter for a change.
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