Timing of oil prime/engine start

[JG1966]

This might be a stupid question, but how soon after priming the oil pump/engine (340) on a fresh rebuild does the engine need to be started?
I've read conflicting reports, from 15 minutes to a couple of days. Does oil pressure suffiently hold for a while (like between normal starts)?

The issue is that it could take me at least an hour to get engine ready to start AFTER priming it, so I hope it's not 15 minutes. Thanks.

 

[Don Frelier]

It will be fine, more importantly you have good oil with zinc in it?
Just remember to check for leaks, especially in the gas line (don't ask me how I know).
I usually start them up on water, if it leaks just a little like a loose clamp not a big deal.
Just remember it will likely boil after you shut it off.
They put out quite a bit of heat when they are new.
I leave the hood off for a couple of days so I can easily keep checking everything.

 

[Don Frelier]

Oh and to be safe have a hose at the ready.
I had some header wrap catch fire, pretty scary.

 

[JG1966]

It will be fine, more importantly you have good oil with zinc in it?
Just remember to check for leaks, especially in the gas line (don't ask me how I know).
I usually start them up on water, if it leaks just a little like a loose clamp not a big deal.
Just remember it will likely boil after you shut it off.
They put out quite a bit of heat when they are new.
I leave the hood off for a couple of days so I can easily keep checking everything.

Thanks Don. I have Brad Penn break-in oil. So, if worst-case scenario and I found myself in a situation where I had to prime the engine one day and start it the next day, that's not an issue?

 

[Don Frelier]

No. On my last start up I primed it. Then put in the distributor, left the plugs out, cranked it over and timed it. As soon as it got some fuel ran it about 1500 rpm, check for leaks then raise and lower between 1500 and 2500 for 15-20 minutes. Let cool completely. Short trips at first with brief hard acceleration and quick decelleration (after it's warm).

 

[Frank Mopar]

Do the hour stuff first. Get the dizzy all set up, mark it, yank it out, prime it an throw it back in. Fire her up. Or maybe I’m missing something.

 

[65-440]

****, I primed my engine on the stand. No intake. After I saw good oil flow coming down the valley, and a few crankshaft revolutions later I buttoned the rest of the engine up. Painted. 2 weeks later in the car and break in, 4k mikes later and still running strong! You'll be fine ......

 

[not so famous bob]

Thanks Don. I have Brad Penn break-in oil. So, if worst-case scenario and I found myself in a situation where I had to prime the engine one day and start it the next day, that's not an issue?

I let my 505" wedge set for about 3 weeks before even installing it. Don`t worry about it, people are overthinking the oil drain off issue ! I have seen engines set for 8-10 months before being restarted. Remember the term "oil film?"

 

[JG1966]

Do the hour stuff first. Get the dizzy all set up, mark it, yank it out, prime it an throw it back in. Fire her up. Or maybe I’m missing something.

Thanks Frank. I figure at minimum I'll need to reinstall distributor drive (and get it pointed right), distributor, spark plugs and fan (it's a pain to turn over motor with fan there). Everything else will be done.

 

[Don Frelier]

It may smoke quite a bit when you first start it, have no fear it should taper off.
My 383 smoked a bit for the first 20 times, it took a while for the rings to seat.

 

[oldbee]

The most important thing is getting the rpm’s up to 2000 with little time cranking. Cam lobe oiling is mostly from splash off everything else.

 

[Bee1971]

But isn't that the purpose of the cam lube you apply to the lobes and bottom of lifters

After I primed my motor , while turning it over a few times by hand to get oil to the rocker arms

I let it sit for weeks on the engine stand before dropping it in and firing it up

 

[threewood]

Here's a dilemma I have thought about for some time....

Cam lobes get lubed before cam install. To set the lash on solids, you need to roll over the cam several times to lash them cold with valvetrain in place. How much lube remains on the lobes when you go to fire it up? Does it matter because you roll it over by hand?

 

[khryslerkid]

Here's a dilemma I have thought about for some time....

Cam lobes get lubed before cam install. To set the lash on solids, you need to roll over the cam several times to lash them cold with valvetrain in place. How much lube remains on the lobes when you go to fire it up? Does it matter because you roll it over by hand?

I had the same thoughts before firing mine up for the first time.

How many times do you turn the engine over before actually firing it up. Setting timing, tightening torque converter bolts, when I'm priming the engine I do it at two locations to line the cam oil ports to right side head and then left side head. Some just rotate the engine while priming.

I did my valve adjustments with the intake off and used a flux brush to dab more assembly lube on the cam before installing the intake.

After all of that, I don't think there is too much assembly lube left on the cam. I guess some is better than none.

 

[threewood]

I had the same thoughts before firing mine up for the first time.

How many times do you turn the engine over before actually firing it up. Setting timing, tightening torque converter bolts, when I'm priming the engine I do it at two locations to line the cam oil ports to right side head and then left side head. Some just rotate the engine while priming.

I did my valve adjustments with the intake off and used a flux brush to dab more assembly lube on the cam before installing the intake.

After all of that, I don't think there is too much assembly lube left on the cam. I guess some is better than none.

If you think about it, the lube gets wiped up where the cam lobe and lifter meet. Spreading it over the lobe as you turn it, similar to the way a set of points get lubed on the dist lobe. You can have a 1/4" of lube on the lobe but it gets wiped down to nothing as soon as you rotate it.

 

[JG1966]

I had the same thoughts before firing mine up for the first time.

How many times do you turn the engine over before actually firing it up. Setting timing, tightening torque converter bolts, when I'm priming the engine I do it at two locations to line the cam oil ports to right side head and then left side head. Some just rotate the engine while priming.

I did my valve adjustments with the intake off and used a flux brush to dab more assembly lube on the cam before installing the intake.

After all of that, I don't think there is too much assembly lube left on the cam. I guess some is better than none.

Thanks Khrysler. I would prefer to turn engine over a minimum while priming motor. Do you know where on the timing rotation the cam oil ports and the top end line up?

 

[khryslerkid]

Thanks Khrysler. I would prefer to turn engine over a minimum while priming motor. Do you know where on the timing rotation the cam oil ports and the top end line up?

Hey JG, I've never done this on a small block but it should work. You'll have to let us know.

Bring #1 cylinder up on compression stroke and stop at top dead center. That should have the cam passage lined up for the right bank. Spin up your priming shaft and watch this side.

Now rotate your crank clockwise, one full revolution and stop at the 270 degree mark. That will have it lined up for oiling the left bank. Spin up your priming shaft and watch for oil there.

If your cam has been degreed any, the oil passages might line up a bit sooner. Probably not enough to throw things off though.

 

[khryslerkid]

If you think about it, the lube gets wiped up where the cam lobe and lifter meet. Spreading it over the lobe as you turn it, similar to the way a set of points get lubed on the dist lobe. You can have a 1/4" of lube on the lobe but it gets wiped down to nothing as soon as you rotate it.

I'm sure some gets impregnated into the cam lobe and lifter so it's not just metal on metal. I'm willing to bet there wasn't an engine built yet that didn't get turned before the first fire up.

 

[oldbee]

Think microscopic film? Personally never had one fail, get the rpm’s up as quick as possible. With high spring pressures it’s probably sooner than later.

 

[65-440]

A bit of over processing here ! Lube the cam during install, prime the oil pump ... fire engine ... if you think it will make a difference, after you've primed the pump and verified oil flow and are done rotating engine over you can always pour more lube over the lobes with the intake off ....