Too much torque for convertible???

[mferraro76]

I'm about to rebuild or replace the engine in my 68 satellite convertible. it has a 318, but i have thought about going big block.

my concern is torque, especially if i go 440, with a goal of 500hp. what effect will the torque have on the body, if i'm romping on the gas here or there? I know they have those unibody connectors but i'm sure there is still some "twist."

on the other hand, i have contemplated staying with the 318 and adding a supercharger. after all, it is a convertible and i want it to be a little quieter at times - i have a solid bottom end so it would cost nearly the same to do this as it would to build a good BB.

basically i would like some good power but i want the doors to line up when i'm done driving. any suggestions?

thanks.

 

[sicksatellite]

I'd put in some subframe connectors, and perhaps torque boxes too, then, romp away!!...lol

 

[burntorange70]

It sould have torque boxes being a vert. Don't think it will be a problem unless you are running slicks and hooking up real hard. A set of weld in subframe connectors should be good enough.

 

[BIGBLK_WP27_5 SPEED]

B body convertible chassis mods for torque

I have 69 CORONET RAGTOP which I just set up for a 500 hp 440 with a 5 speed and a 410 S 60. The Ragtops allready have Hemi Torque Boxes. I added a set of USCARTOOL weld in frame connectors. They are impressive. Now you have plenty of frame for a high torque big block. There are other things to consider like ,if you plan to drag race with slicks, you would want to add a few more braces and possibly a 4 point roll bar. If you would like to here how I set mine up... let me know. My build is a restomod pro touring set up. I am in the process of fit and finish, pre paint. I do have a few pics posted, however I am having trouble uploading pics right now or I would show you pics of the subframe connectors installed, etc.

 

[696pack]

Here are some picturesof the US Car Tool frame connectors I installed on my 66 Hemi car.

 

[mferraro76]

thanks for the info. i've seen some different companies that make the subframe connectors, are those uscartool the most popular?

also, the car is getting sandblasted, it has no drivetrain in it, can they weld these in now or does it have to be on the ground (i was reading hotchkis's instructions and they are saying it must have tires on it and be on the ground).

 

[696pack]

thanks for the info. i've seen some different companies that make the subframe connectors, are those uscartool the most popular? also, the car is getting sandblasted, it has no drivetrain in it, can they weld these in now or does it have to be on the ground (i was reading hotchkis's instructions and they are saying it must have tires on it and be on the ground).

As you can see in my pictures above, the advantage to these is that they are lazer cut to follow the conture of the floor and therefore don't hang down lower the the unibody like others. They look like they were there from the factory and one piece from the front to the rear of the unibody frame rails.

 

[burntorange70]

also, the car is getting sandblasted, it has no drivetrain in it, can they weld these in now or does it have to be on the ground (i was reading hotchkis's instructions and they are saying it must have tires on it and be on the ground).

I have hered both ways and seen it done both. You can do it on jack stands too. Just make sure the car is level front to back and side to side with a level and shim as needed.

 

[mferraro76]

As you can see in my pictures above, the advantage to these is that they are lazer cut to follow the conture of the floor and therefore don't hang down lower the the unibody like others. They look like they were there from the factory and one piece from the front to the rear of the unibody frame rails.

It does look factory, i wasn't aware that the others hung lower. it was a little strange that the hotchkis connectors come powder coated and then you have to grind it off in order to weld. and the tubular ones look out of place.

What did you paint the underside with afterwards?

 

[696pack]

The factory dip on my car was a dark color ike you see in the pictures. After the frame connectors were installed the match to my underside color was actually a cast iron paint color that I used.

 

[mferraro76]

I have 69 CORONET RAGTOP which I just set up for a 500 hp 440 with a 5 speed and a 410 S 60. The Ragtops allready have Hemi Torque Boxes. I added a set of USCARTOOL weld in frame connectors. They are impressive. Now you have plenty of frame for a high torque big block. There are other things to consider like ,if you plan to drag race with slicks, you would want to add a few more braces and possibly a 4 point roll bar. If you would like to here how I set mine up... let me know. My build is a restomod pro touring set up. I am in the process of fit and finish, pre paint. I do have a few pics posted, however I am having trouble uploading pics right now or I would show you pics of the subframe connectors installed, etc.

where do the sub-frame connectors go in relation to the torque boxes? can you show me pictures of this?

 

[Coronet 500]

Regarding your engine choices, I would seriously consider the small one with a supercharger. We are in the process of building a 318 turbo motor and have gathered alot of info. It seem like most in magazines or on turbo forums are looking at full bore +15psi and some 20+, we were looking for something that would be a nice street cruiser with occasional visits to the track. Just bumped into a guy who has been turboing and supercharging others cars for along time and he said if you don't go crazy and drive easy on the street many he has tuned get close to stock gas mileage. I think with the way fuel prices are going and maybe staying this way it's a good idea. A 318 supercharged can make 400-500hp no problem, the supercharger store has that built 318 that did almost 600 rear wheel horsepower at 16psi. I believe smaller pressurized engines will be the future trend.

 

[mferraro76]

Regarding your engine choices, I would seriously consider the small one with a supercharger.

i think this is the route i will go. i like the idea of a quieter smooth idle and peace at cruising speeds - being its a convertible. I've read a lot and seen a couple articles with 400 na 318s, so i'm sure with a good bottom end - even more is possible. i'd love to turbo but for now, there is too much customization - headers, plumbing, etc. so the supercharger works better. i've reaad that the only weakness is the cylinder walls between certain cylinders-and i already am bored .030 over. also, the bottom end - only a 2 bolt main and stock rotating assembly - i think it would be a risk pushing a lot of boost with this. but this is obviously heading off topic.

the big block is still a viable idea, but the drone of it at highway speeds worries me (its a convertible), especially if i build one 500+ hp. i'm not dragging, i like the idea of something that corners well, i will probably keep the stock suspension so the extra weight in the front might require bigger torsion bars, beefier rear springs...

so i think with the connectors, the torque boxes, some sway bars - i should have a comfy cruiser. if i throw a supercharger on from the supercharger store or a paxton kit - i might get the power i want without over-torquing the frame. i probably just build a good bottom end and maybe a fast fuel injection - while i save up for the s/c.

 

[Coronet 500]

We are putting top line parts in ours with forged pistons, looking to start out in the 8-12 psi range then push the envelope later. Hughes makes a nice bolt-on stud girdle to strengthen the two bolt bottom end that acts as a crank scraper too. Detonation is what breaks bottom ends not boost.

 

[mferraro76]

i did do the forged pistons, when you say "top of the line parts," are you referring to the crank and rods?

 

[Cranky]

A buddy of mine has a 318 stroked to 390 and only running 5 lbs of boost in a 94 Dakota. The thing runs pretty good. Traction is a problem so high 11's is about all it'll do on the track. Another buddy and I played with his 72 Demon and it didn't take much to get it into the mid 13's with a 650 DP Holley. It's geared to death tho but it only turns 6200 and the bottom end is a stock block setup with 115k miles on it!

 

[Coronet 500]

We have a choice of 318 solid rod throw forged crank or 340 hollow rod throw forged crank. Eagle H beam rods with 2000 bolts, Wiseco pistons with a -14cc notch and dish and a Hughes girdle. We plan to get steel main caps and may try some piston oiling. Built a full kickout rear sump oil pan. This is what we have collected so far but money and time are going to finish our chassis. I was a big block guy years ago but lately, mostly becauase of my son's thinking, we're sticking to 3.31" stroke engines.

 

[696pack]

where do the sub-frame connectors go in relation to the torque boxes? can you show me pictures of this?

Here are a couple more pictures showin the torque boxes and frame connectors togather.

 

[Propwash]

I don't know if any one mentioned this already, but your satty vert would have come factory with torque boxes.. All cars in 68' that is a hemi/vert has them. Good luck on your build..Post some pic's..

 

[mferraro76]

yea, somebody did mention that. my question now becomes - which frame connectors can i use? apparently some mount up to the back side of the leaf spring hanger, which is inside the rear torque box. so, i don't want to cut that up, right?

here is the most recent pic (after 8 hours of scraping off undercoating), i should probably post some up in the member's restoration section.