Bladecutter
"Pursuit of Shape"
Nice Rig.......few years worth of collecting there i'd guess.
Tools Explained
- Thread starter Pops1967GTX
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Bladecutter
"Pursuit of Shape"
Yeah, i'd fully concur with You on a Lot of Luck, Blessing,,,, it coulda really messed up Your day.
66Satellite47
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Ya not the first time I've been so lucky!! Best of luck to you!!
Darthomas
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About 3 years ago I was holding a part and drilling while sitting Cross legged on the floor.
The bit jumped, landed on my right thigh, grabbed the cloth AND skin below, and came to a quick stop. No tears in the pants or skin, but the strong twist gave me a 1 inch bruise that quickly formed a scab and looked like a zombie bite for months. And a scar.
The bit jumped, landed on my right thigh, grabbed the cloth AND skin below, and came to a quick stop. No tears in the pants or skin, but the strong twist gave me a 1 inch bruise that quickly formed a scab and looked like a zombie bite for months. And a scar.
Remind me to show you the three scares on my digits, from three separate encounters with this fine tool some day.
66Satellite47
Well-Known Member
My favorite tool is still my 4 1/2" side grinder. I've used that for so many things I can't even recall. I'm on only my second one in 30 years. My pneumatic die grinder is a close second. Carbide bits, coarse aluminum cuts, cut off wheels. Very useful.
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Wrenches and sockets:
Intended purpose - Turn a hexagon shaped head attached to a threaded shaft which generally joins two steel objects together.
Actual results of use - Conversion of a hexagon into a dodecagon or circular shape. This is presuming the wrench or socket can actually get onto the hexagon to apply the required force to turn it. If the above does not occur, it is common to only be able to turn the wrench about 1/8" at a time resulting in sore arms and fingers. It these situations which the socket driver was designed for, but of course, the engineering department did not allow the extra 1 1/2" needed to use it. Many times the wrench or socket will intentionally jump off of the hexagon in order to smash, cut, bruise or otherwise injure it's operator. These two work together at this and are always planning attacks, as they often reside in the same home.
Screwdrivers:
Intended purpose - Tighten or loosen a small threaded object designed to fasten or join two or more parts together.
Actual results of use - Injects long, deep, contoured scratches in nice paint, occasionally denting in the process (rarely will it attack old or faded paint). Tears or punctures in human flesh (will almost certainly miss any area protected by material such as a glove). Turns screws into challenging, seemingly permanent, weld type connectors which require drilling out to remove. (refer to drill section for more info)
Ball peen hammers:
Intended purpose - Cause impact to an object, such as a punch or chisel, or blunt force to loosen seized connections.
Actual results of use - Generally misses the intended object (punch etc), glancing off and striking the appendage holding it, often a human hand, causing insurmountable pain and commonly a lost tool (the punch will most certainly fall into a spot that can't be easily reached). Quite often the ball peen will mount a direct attack on the human hand, in this case it is now considered a press, reshaping the appendage struck into a flat version of it's former self. This will often lead to a hole in a wall, damage to nearby material, or a lost tool, as the hammer generally flies uncontrolled in any direction without consideration for objects in it's flight path.
Chisels and punches:
Intended purpose - Removal by splitting of steel objects or driving pins etc into predetermined locations.
Actual results of use - Chisels and punches are close relatives of the hammer. They often work in conjunction with and cause very similar results. Often the punch will purposefully damage the driven object to the point it will no longer go in or out of it's intended spot. This can become very challenging as the material is quite often hardened, increasing the challenge of drilling (refer to drill section for more info). The chisel itself has a different motive. It will intentionally try to damage any smooth or machined surface it can attack. It is usually successful in it's attempts as it is made of a harder material than most parts nearby, and it is well aware of this. It will always attack the most important, hardest to repair part it can reach.
Drills, corded or rechargeable:
Intended purpose - To bore a hole into or through almost any material. Often used to run a bit which drives screws.
Actual results of use - The corded drill will almost certainly never have enough cord to reach the work area. The rechargeable will most often be dead or have 37 seconds worth of energy stored before it dies. In the case that the above situations are overcome, both tools will generally be to large to fit into the space provided. This due to the fact that the screwdriver which destroyed the screw, was in a spot it knew the drill coming along afterwards would not access (they plan this stuff ahead of time). If you are lucky enough to just get it in there, a common result is a broken bit. This is more often than not, due to trying when you know you shouldn't. The drill then leaves a chunk of hardened, oddly shaped, material in the way of progress. Speaking of hardened, most times you will be trying to drill out very hard steel, such as the remnants of a pin after a punch has had it's way with it. Tools and accessories know this stuff. They would never leave soft, easy to access materials for you to work with. They will always put the hardest, half broke off, in a blind spot, chunk of Chromium like, drill bit eating material they can conjure up.
Intended purpose - Turn a hexagon shaped head attached to a threaded shaft which generally joins two steel objects together.
Actual results of use - Conversion of a hexagon into a dodecagon or circular shape. This is presuming the wrench or socket can actually get onto the hexagon to apply the required force to turn it. If the above does not occur, it is common to only be able to turn the wrench about 1/8" at a time resulting in sore arms and fingers. It these situations which the socket driver was designed for, but of course, the engineering department did not allow the extra 1 1/2" needed to use it. Many times the wrench or socket will intentionally jump off of the hexagon in order to smash, cut, bruise or otherwise injure it's operator. These two work together at this and are always planning attacks, as they often reside in the same home.
Screwdrivers:
Intended purpose - Tighten or loosen a small threaded object designed to fasten or join two or more parts together.
Actual results of use - Injects long, deep, contoured scratches in nice paint, occasionally denting in the process (rarely will it attack old or faded paint). Tears or punctures in human flesh (will almost certainly miss any area protected by material such as a glove). Turns screws into challenging, seemingly permanent, weld type connectors which require drilling out to remove. (refer to drill section for more info)
Ball peen hammers:
Intended purpose - Cause impact to an object, such as a punch or chisel, or blunt force to loosen seized connections.
Actual results of use - Generally misses the intended object (punch etc), glancing off and striking the appendage holding it, often a human hand, causing insurmountable pain and commonly a lost tool (the punch will most certainly fall into a spot that can't be easily reached). Quite often the ball peen will mount a direct attack on the human hand, in this case it is now considered a press, reshaping the appendage struck into a flat version of it's former self. This will often lead to a hole in a wall, damage to nearby material, or a lost tool, as the hammer generally flies uncontrolled in any direction without consideration for objects in it's flight path.
Chisels and punches:
Intended purpose - Removal by splitting of steel objects or driving pins etc into predetermined locations.
Actual results of use - Chisels and punches are close relatives of the hammer. They often work in conjunction with and cause very similar results. Often the punch will purposefully damage the driven object to the point it will no longer go in or out of it's intended spot. This can become very challenging as the material is quite often hardened, increasing the challenge of drilling (refer to drill section for more info). The chisel itself has a different motive. It will intentionally try to damage any smooth or machined surface it can attack. It is usually successful in it's attempts as it is made of a harder material than most parts nearby, and it is well aware of this. It will always attack the most important, hardest to repair part it can reach.
Drills, corded or rechargeable:
Intended purpose - To bore a hole into or through almost any material. Often used to run a bit which drives screws.
Actual results of use - The corded drill will almost certainly never have enough cord to reach the work area. The rechargeable will most often be dead or have 37 seconds worth of energy stored before it dies. In the case that the above situations are overcome, both tools will generally be to large to fit into the space provided. This due to the fact that the screwdriver which destroyed the screw, was in a spot it knew the drill coming along afterwards would not access (they plan this stuff ahead of time). If you are lucky enough to just get it in there, a common result is a broken bit. This is more often than not, due to trying when you know you shouldn't. The drill then leaves a chunk of hardened, oddly shaped, material in the way of progress. Speaking of hardened, most times you will be trying to drill out very hard steel, such as the remnants of a pin after a punch has had it's way with it. Tools and accessories know this stuff. They would never leave soft, easy to access materials for you to work with. They will always put the hardest, half broke off, in a blind spot, chunk of Chromium like, drill bit eating material they can conjure up.
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Glenwood
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My B&D Pro 4-1/2 mini grinder is still going strong now for 20 years. Getting a good work out lately!
Another old dependable is my Craftsman wet/dry shop vac. variable speed which I've had for nearly 25 years. It's seen duty from my word working, metal working, sandblast dust collection, floor refinishing and even pool maintenance. Just love that old vac!
Bladecutter
"Pursuit of Shape"
Yeah, old favorite tools. In 93 i paid 190.00 for a MAC 90 degree pneumatic die grinder kit in molded plastic case. Years of use, i Do Not oil much during usage as much of what im doing is finish work & i dont want to contaminate the real estate by scattering oil over it. Veteran, religiously used in multiple applications, effing bullet proof................somebody lifted it about 3 mos ago.....not worth **** much of anymore in dollar....i hate thieves. I know the tool is just a thing, but still it's like losing a very old Friend....it really bums me out when i marinate on it.
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Someone may have overestimated the soundness of the ground...
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And some more.
DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.
WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light . Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, 'Oh sh--!'
SKIL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short, Surely not a skill saw.
PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.
BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.
HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle... It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.
VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.
OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race.
TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity. Also to shorten your reach.
HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes , trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.
BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge. Also to test your dexterity in removing and replacing cover screws to put the belt back on.
TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect.
PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.
STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms.
PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.
HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short.
HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit, or to flatten out hang nails.
UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use.
DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.
WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light . Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, 'Oh sh--!'
SKIL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short, Surely not a skill saw.
PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.
BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.
HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle... It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.
VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.
OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race.
TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity. Also to shorten your reach.
HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes , trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.
BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge. Also to test your dexterity in removing and replacing cover screws to put the belt back on.
TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect.
PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.
STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms.
PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.
HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short.
HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit, or to flatten out hang nails.
UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use.
mopwrd340
Well-Known Member
I had to go on a Roadcall to change a tire on a mack truck i put the air jack under the rear spring u bolt took the tire off and went to get a tire off the tire truck when i rolled the tire back to the truck it was sitting on the brake drum. The only thing that was sticking up was the handle the jack had sunk through the asphalt and was 10 inches down had to call a wrecker to pick the back of the truck up and after the tire was changed it took me about a hour to get the jack out .
Bladecutter
"Pursuit of Shape"
Total bummer Man!! Amazing how straightforward jobs can turn into hair pullers in an instant. I feel Ya'.
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Five Tools does it all!
1. Ball Peen Hammer.
2. Oxy acetylene Torch
3. Duct tape.
4. Water Pump Pliers.
5. Air Chisel.
1. Ball Peen Hammer.
2. Oxy acetylene Torch
3. Duct tape.
4. Water Pump Pliers.
5. Air Chisel.
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I'd have to add a sixth; working on the railroad, we used a 5' long lining bar quite a lot. 
Darthomas
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I had a girlfriend in the 80's that I needed this tool to remove her from a party at 3AM. That or a Johnson bar.I'd have to add a sixth; working on the railroad, we used a 5' long lining bar quite a lot.
Darthomas
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S
Steel plate is your friend.
Also used for violently grabbing the object being cleaned and in less than one nano-second, flick said object directly into the stomach of the person operating the wire wheel tool.
Ask me how I know this.
And a hammer is used for hitting the chisel to undo a stubborn screw.
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