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Torque boxes and frame connectors

So, you're saying there is flex to this type of body construction? That maybe I will be having a body fitment or damage issues after a few launches? Is it possible I may even have problems opening my doors if I jack up just one corner of my Roadrunner?
 
If you read all of my post carefully you will see where I said ALL types of auto body construction has flex especially when powered by a high torque engine with tires that hook hard.

If you lift a stock suspension (read stock for the car including cars with Hemi suspension) hardtop B body on one corner with the door opened you will likely not get the door closed in that position or it will bind at best. Put a set of frame connectors on and do the same and you can close the door in this same position.

I don't know if your car is a coupe or hardtop, auto, 4 speed, has a 318 or a Hemi, and what type of tires you are running or how high of RPMs you are launching at.

If you want to know about YOUR specific car you will have to give me more specifics.

Depending on all of the above, yes you can certainly have body fitment and damage if you have enough power and traction.
 
If you read all of my post carefully you will see where I said ALL types of auto body construction has flex especially when powered by a high torque engine with tires that hook hard.

If you lift a stock suspension (read stock for the car including cars with Hemi suspension) hardtop B body on one corner with the door opened you will likely not get the door closed in that position or it will bind at best. Put a set of frame connectors on and do the same and you can close the door in this same position.

I did read it, just needed you to say it this way. My point being, if you are going to install connectors and torque boxes, the vehicle should be supported on it's suspension points. If you are going to do it on a rotisserie, the body really should be reinforced and braced, if for nothing else than the fact that the body shell does not have normal loads applied to it.
 
696Pack- My car is a 71 RR, 2 door hard top, auto. NOM but leaning towards a stroker engine for it. Thinking of about 500 Hp at least. Not going to the strip, just street and cruising. Hope this helps.
 
696Pack- My car is a 71 RR, 2 door hard top, auto. NOM but leaning towards a stroker engine for it. Thinking of about 500 Hp at least. Not going to the strip, just street and cruising. Hope this helps.

I would put the torque boxes and frame connectors on your car as you are planning. The REAL problems for these cars as I have stated earlier in this thread, is when you have this kind of power AND the traction to get the power to the street/strip. If you don't run slicks or drag radials you would probably be OK but at some pont you will likely bolt them on when you get tire of sitting there just burning up tires.
 
Even without the big torque and traction there is a very noticable difference in how the car feels and drives. Stiffening up the body allows the suspension to do it's job more effectively. There are mods that you can do to the K-member also to take the flex out of that. You'ld be suprised how that will tighten up the steering.
 
Even without the big torque and traction there is a very noticable difference in how the car feels and drives. Stiffening up the body allows the suspension to do it's job more effectively. There are mods that you can do to the K-member also to take the flex out of that. You'ld be suprised how that will tighten up the steering.

Xs 2
 
I agree with what was said above about stiffining the k member. I re-welded all the seams on mine and added plates to the LCA as well as the torque boxes and frame connectors. I have eddie IAS shocks and tubeular control arms and my big old b-body sticks to the road really nice. Best bark is its not big $$ stuff!
 
I too am in agreement with adding frame connectors and torque boxes.
Here is my 71 with them.
The frame connectors were added with the car sitting on its tires.
The torque boxes were added while it was on the rotisserie.
Oct 28 (7).jpg
 
I've had more than a few cars on hoists that the doors don't open well. But are ok on the ground. I've also welded subframe connectors in on the hoist and on stands connected to the bumper brackets. The difference? When welding, the cars were disassembled and had very little weight in them. Years ago GM had a recall for Berreta/Corsica door hinges. When swapping the hinges on the hoist I quickly learned to lower the car and set the front arms down on wood blocks (you had the front tires off for access). If you tightened them in the air the doors wouldn't shut when back down on the wheels.
Doug
 
I too am in agreement with adding frame connectors and torque boxes.
Here is my 71 with them.
The frame connectors were added with the car sitting on its tires.
The torque boxes were added while it was on the rotisserie.
View attachment 1587050
I did the same years ago. Looks good
 
Has anyone notice a difference in square channel verses tube type subframe connectors? in conjunction with torque boxes? I have tube type and was just wondering.

resto14.jpg


resto15.jpg


resto16.jpg


resto17.jpg
 
Even without the big torque and traction there is a very noticable difference in how the car feels and drives. Stiffening up the body allows the suspension to do it's job more effectively. There are mods that you can do to the K-member also to take the flex out of that. You'ld be suprised how that will tighten up the steering.

I agree, I didn’t do the torque boxes but the USCT connectors made a noticeable improvement in how the car drives…
 
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