Torque Converter To Flex Plate Space

[69 GeeTeeX]

Today I measured and compared my original 440 crankshaft flange and converter hub to the new Eagle stroker crankshaft and their both within a few thousands of an inch.

After searching the Moparts website last night I found a lot of information in the tech section posted by people having the same problem.

Tomorrow I’m shipping the new converter back to PTC to have the hub length shortened to fit my setup. The PTC converter is right on spec wise and they did nothing wrong, just needs to be adjusted to fit my setup. When all the tolerances stack up it definitely won’t work as is.

 

[wyrmrider]

Great comment Dipstick
Why did not I think of that?
been there done that with too short with block/ motor plate

 

[Arts67]

Perhaps a pilot bushing? I seem to remember having to cut mine out.

Hi Guys - I'm having a similar problem. Test fit my TC today and had way too much space between the flex plate tabs and the mounting tabs on the TC. Inspected the crank "pocket" and see what looks like a sleeve sticking out of the hole. Is this is pilot bushing and can I just grind it down? I think that's all the clearance I need.

 

[493 Mike]

You certainly have nothing to lose by grinding/chiseling it flush. Don't forget to grease the converter hub to crank recess.
Mike

 

[Arts67]

Mike thank you for the info and the tip on greasing. I thought of that last night as well.

 

[Arts67]

Guys - The bushing ground down with a dremel, no problem. Cleaned out the hole and test fit the TC, which nested nicely and mated right up to the flex plate. Thought I was home free. Next problem. Installed the TC into the tranny and confirmed that it is all the way seated. Mated the tranny up to the block and now the TC tab and flexplate have about a 1/8" gap. Definitely concerned about drawing the TC out of it's seat or bending the flexplate by cranking down on the screws. First time doing this, so I don't want to be wrong.

 

[beanhead]

There's supposed to be a gap present, when the converter is pushed all the way into the transmission. As long as the converter can slide forward against the flexplate, you're all good. It's better to pull it forward by hand, rather than draw it forward with the bolts.

 

[Fran Blacker]

As beanhead said, if you can't pull TC forward and and touch flex plate you still have a problem.

 

[RemCharger]

Take out the star lockwashers. They shouldn't be there. Then push the converter against the motor and spin it. See if the bolts leave scratches on the converter. Often they need to be skimmed down a bit.

 

[69 GeeTeeX]

Take out the star lockwashers. They shouldn't be there. Then push the converter against the motor and spin it. See if the bolts leave scratches on the converter. Often they need to be skimmed down a bit.

Yes, remove the star washers on the flex plate to crankshaft flange and use blue loctite on the threads then torque to specification.

 

[69 GeeTeeX]

With the transmission installed you should have between 1/8” to 3/16” gap between the flex plate and converter bolt pad with the converter pushed all the way into the transmission (towards rear of car). If your within specs install bolts using blue loctite and torque to specification.

Also, be sure to fill the converter with about a quart of transmission fluid if it’s new or empty.

 

[dvw]

This converter stuff is all over the map. Many different manufactuars cranks, converters and blocks. I have had them to tight. Made a block to trans spacer. Had them hit the flex plate bolts. Machined the heads thinner. Had them bottom in the crank. Added washers between the converter and flex plate. Measure them 1st so all 4 are the same. Had the snout not fit the crank. Flap wheel the crank. What I have learned is DO NOT pull a B&M flex plate against the converter so it bends. It WILL crack.
Doug

 

[Arts67]

Thanks guys. Turns out just finger tight on the bolts pulled the TC right in, no problem. First time for all this, so just being safe rather than sorry. Thanks again.