Torque Flight Skips 2nd

[dvw]

No throttle pressure generally picks on the KD band first. I’ve pulled them apart with red fluid and a cooked band. I’d be running pressure checks before anything.
Doug

 

[wagonwedge330]

Well i know this post is over 3 months old, but here's my take on this after a bottle of wine...very, very strange this happens only one time on the first attempt to the 1-2 shift. Personally I think a little more info and diagnosis are in order here. First thing on the list is 3-speed aluminum Torqueflites only pump fluid throughout the complete trans. in any gear selection EXCEPT PARK. This is why a Torqueflite fluid level needs to be checked idling, fully warmed up, in NEUTRAL. If there is a problem with torque converter fluid drain-back after sitting at rest for an extended amount of time, or the 2nd gear band apply servo draining back after sitting for some time, starting the vehicle in PARK (as we all would do) and shifting to Drive immediately without a few seconds of warm-up OUT OF PARK could result in not enough time for all the cavities, servos, converter, etc. to fill and expel air to allow proper operation when the second gear shift is commanded. I don't think the converter is the issue because your car likely wouldn't move till it fills. First thing I'd do is check the fluid level as noted above, and then on the next cold start fire the car up, shift to neutral, idle for a half-minute, and drive away and see if the condition changes. My best friend, a Tech School instructor, always told me if the transmission is CAPABLE of shifting the problem is in the brains of the thing (valve body), or a fluid supply problem. My best guess is your second gear servo is leaking down and taking time to refill the servo cavity. Once that's done the fluid supply overwhelms the leak (whatever that may be) and it shifts great for the remainder of your cruise. I'd be looking for a reason for the 2nd gear servo to be empty of fluid (perhaps a porosity in the case, or a crack). In any event, I'm sure you've got this issue solved by now, but I'd sure like to know what you found to be the problem.

I am still working on this issue. I believe RonR hit upon the issue, the detent is not connected properly, I’m replacing the carb so after the 1st I will post findings, I appreciate it, I have learned a ton of shizz about early torque flights!

 

[Dave6T4]

I would go with the sticky shift valve. I have rebuilt quite a few 727's for friends. I once had a governor ring break on reassembly. The result was no upshift and freewheel when off the gas. If it were a broken band strut, it would always miss second gear. I think problem could be tied to difference in viscosity between cold ATF and hot. As others have suggested, clean the valve body. I have a white Arkansas stone that I roll the valves on to remove any burrs or scratches. When reassembling the valve body, torque the screws to factory specs. Overtightening can warp the aluminium body, causing a valve to stick. If you have access to another trans, just swap out the valve body and see if problem goes away.

 

[wagonwedge330]

I would go with the sticky shift valve. I have rebuilt quite a few 727's for friends. I once had a governor ring break on reassemblyiPprw. The result was no upshift and freewheel when off the gas. If it were a broken band strut, it would always miss second gear. I think problem could be tied to difference in viscosity between cold ATF and hot. As others have suggested, clean the valve body. I have a white Arkansas stone that I roll the valves on to remove any burrs or scratches. When reassembling the valve body, torque the screws to factory specs. Overtightening can warp the aluminium body, causing a valve to stick. If you have access to another trans, just swap out the valve body and see if problem goes away.

thank you for your input, and sharing your knowledge. Yes, I do have a friend who has parts, trans, builds TF, etc, about 1.5 hours away. I appreciate your knowledge, and taking time to give input...let me explain the whole scenario, because this doesn’t happen every time I start off and the transmission goes through the changes. but occurs just once as I mentioned after the car had sat o.n. or long enough that everything is completely cold, (same as if the car has sat all night).
What occurs........after the car sits (usually overnight), the only other scenario is if I drive the car to one of the all day Saturday car show/swap/vendors type all day show, which most of those are normally in the fall or early spring, (before the 100 degree / humid summer days set in), ....Lets say I arrive at 9:00AM at one of these shows, check in at the gate, find a spot to park, and stay for entire show and don’t leave til 4:00 or 5:00 pm, (long enough that the car becomes completely cooled off, as if it had sat overnight, everything dead cold again. I fire her up, ease out of the gate, in a line with 250 or so other cars, (show traffic), when I get to the main road, take off the car will shift directly from 1st to 3rd, skipping second If coarse, but just that once..after that, the transmission works shifts properly everything flawlessly. with no further issue....UNTIL the NEXT day after the car sits overnight etc completely cold again!
Doug (dvw), has mentioned fluid pressure, which makes sense to me, and so plan to have my Bud Reggie who races dirt track. Another member, RonR mentioned the detent rod/linkage among others, which caused various shifting and missed gear, and passing gear kick in issues on some very earlier ‘65 TFlights, which also made sense. Another friend referred me to a shop, (they repaired a small carb leak), but they half arse reinstalled the detent linkage/ trans linkage that I had planned to address. In NO way am I doubting what you’ve suggested at all, and after the our kids head back home after the holidays I plan to dig in, figure this out, among getting other small stuff dealt with. Thanks & happy new year!