Torsion Bar reinstall

[tlt23]

Next issue, I put my LCA back on reinstalled the torsion bar and adjusted, but the control arms sit on the bump stops, and the adjusting screws are all the way to the bottom of the LCA.

When I pulled the LCA I pulled then completely out, welded up the stiffener plate on and then put new bushing and ball joints on, just put everything new that moved up front. but putting it back in not sitting right, because how it is sitting on the stops and the adjustment screw is already at the bottom of the LCA

How do I readjust the torsion bar to get it to ride higher and not sit on the stops?

 

[icetech]

Unhook everything from the LCA including the torsion bar, swing the LCA way down, insert the torsion bar so it has more tension on it to start with, jack the LCA up enough to bolt on the shock/knuckle then final adjust. I'm guessing you put it all in place then put the torsion bar in?

 

[RemCharger]

You need to keep cranking the adjusters up, looks like you're half way.
Go till the bolt head is flush with the bottom of the lca

 

[PST]

You will need to remove the upper control arm bump stop and allow the suspensions to fully drop. At that point slide your torsion bar in.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Have weight off the suspension when adjusting the torsion bar screw you could mess up the threads.

 

[tlt23]

Ok, I'll try it again. I had the torsion bar out and everything hanging (had upper bump stop in place) tightened up all the bolts then installed the torsion bar and then began tightening the torsion bolt.

on the front of the LCA the bolt that holds it in place should that be loosened and turned at all, then retorqued before putting in the torsion bar?

I have a set of heavy torsions i was going to put in when I dropped the 440 in there. Should I put them in now with the 318, because the bars that are in there are the original torsion bars? Do torsion bars loose the twist over years?

 

[RemCharger]

You say the bolt is already at the bottom of the lca.
You need to keep going

 

[Beekeeper]

be sure you leave the lower control arm pin nut loose when you put weight on it.
If it’s tightened before you will tear the new bushing

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Short Version - tighten those big torsion bar adjustment bolts you're looking at a lot more. The more you tighten those big bolts (righty tighty, lefty loosey), the higher your font end will be & the control arms will lift up off those bumpers as you tighten those 2 big bolts

 

[AR67GTX]

Also loosen your shocks at the top in addition to removing the upper rubber snubber. That will allow the most LCA droop for removing/inserting the bars. But your bars may be clocked OK, just too loose. My adjuster bolts are up in the LCA cavity.

 

[tlt23]

Also loosen your shocks at the top in addition to removing the upper rubber snubber. That will allow the most LCA droop for removing/inserting the bars. But your bars may be clocked OK, just too loose. My adjuster bolts are up in the LCA cavity.

Bars might be clocked? I haven't heard that term?

I will adjust the bolts higher first, if that doesn't work it is the 440 bars going in for right now and call it good to ship.

I'll update in a while

 

[AR67GTX]

Clocking means with the hex head ends on the bars and hex recess in the LCA, they can go into the LCA socket in multiple positions depending on the position or swing of the LCA. To get them clocked correctly in the LCA the arm has to be hanging as far down as you can get it (rubber bumper removed, shock loosened, may have to loosen LCA shaft bolt to relieve bushing twist). if its inserted one flat off in the hex you will never get the car up and sitting at a correct height. I suspect yours are OK, just need to tighten up the bolts a lot more.

 

[Easternair]

Seems to me like you need to tighten the torsion bar bolts a lot more. Make sure that the weight is off the suspension when tightening the bolts. When done jounce the car, release on the down push and measure height to make sure both sides are at an even height.