torsion bars scare me!

[vintagetin]

Okay, I want replace my lower control arm bushings. I believe they are always under a load from the torsion bars, so once they wear out, they make no noise. I order to change them, must I remove the torsion bars completely? I've never touched these before. I know that if you loosen the adjuster bolts you can remove most of the tension in them...but what about the rest of the tension? Do I need a special tool to remove them and put them back in without damaging them? This is the most intimidating part of the whole car in my opinion. How can I make sure I don't hurt myself? or damage them?

 

[ga66mopar]

When I first started working on mopars I was a little scared of torsions also. But they are really easy. Get the car jacked up and all of the weight off of the control arms. When you back off the torsion bar adjustment nut you have all the tension off torsion bars. Loosen up the nut on the lower control arm untill it's almost off. Make sure you take off the clips at the rear of the torsion bars at the cross member. Take the bolt off the strut rod at the lower control arm. Usually you can put a crowbar between the lower control arm and k member and pry the torsion bar out. It sounds like a lot but it really isn't. Just don't hit the torsion bar with a hammer.

 

[vintagetin]

I didn't even know there was clips at the cross member end of the torsion bar. Thank you. I guess I will just count the number of turns on the adjuster bolt so I can re-set my current ride height.

 

[Al K]

There are tools available for torsion bar removal. Highly recommended. I got mine through Mancini,and it worked great.

 

[Deleted member 214]

I think there is still some tension on them even after the adjusters are loose. I suggest snugging a floor jack under the lower arm, then breaking loose the upper ball joint, then lowering it with the jack. Reverse the order once the new torsion bar is in.

 

[5.7 hemi]

Once the adjusting nut is loose all the way, there is

 

[5.7 hemi]

Once the adjusting bolt is loosened all the way, there will be NO tension on the torsion bars.

 

[vintagetin]

I think there is still some tension on them even after the adjusters are loose.

Once the adjusting bolt is loosened all the way, there will be NO tension on the torsion bars.

I guess I'll just have to find out for myself!

 

[MarPar]

:happy1:

 

[Ralph Cali]

I have to remove the torsion bars to pull the 4 speed on my 73RR so I got used to it - do it on my garage floor. Just have some good supports under the K frame that will not slip. Buy the special torsion bar removal tool - a must have and you can do it. and follow the instructions previous mentioned in the thread
Ralph

 

[eagleone1983]

It's also recommended that you take off the Upper Control Arm bumper to fully release all tension on the Torsion bar. But like ga66 said loosen the Lower Control Arm shaft nut and don't for get about the strut rod nuts either otherwise the LCA won't really move when you beat on it or pry it.

As far as what you are trying to do, which is replace the LCA bushing...the LCA shaft needs to be pressed out from the back and the bushing removed. Usually these are a little tough to remove the outer shell of the bushing. Regardless you will have to tear apart your entire front end to completely remove your LCAs from the car. It sounds like a lot but it really isn't too bad with air tools and some cussing. This was one of the first things I learned how to do on the car. Here is an article with pics to check out:
http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/...uilding_front_suspensions_with_pst/index.html

 

[Coronet 500]

See this http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?t=13547

 

[vintagetin]

It seems that all the information agrees that once the bars are unloaded, the lower ball joint is unbolted, and the LCA is loosened and disconnected from the sway bar that I should be able to remove the torsion bar clip from the cross member and whack the LCA with a BMFH and the torsion bar should slide out of the back. I should be able to knock the LCA off the torsion bar, and have my way with a press to get that LCA bushing out... All without damaging the torsion bars. I don't mind getting the tool if I HAVE too. But it seems that there are other methods.

 

[Revhendo]

It seems that all the information agrees that once the bars are unloaded, the lower ball joint is unbolted, and the LCA is loosened and disconnected from the sway bar that I should be able to remove the torsion bar clip from the cross member and whack the LCA with a BMFH and the torsion bar should slide out of the back. I should be able to knock the LCA off the torsion bar, and have my way with a press to get that LCA bushing out... All without damaging the torsion bars. I don't mind getting the tool if I HAVE too. But it seems that there are other methods.

Yep, more than one way to skin a cat. Now put down your purse and get it done. Or, step aside and let your girlfriend do it.

(Just kidding, they're not that bad at all, just get in and do it).

 

[Meep-Meep]

It's also recommended that you take off the Upper Control Arm bumper to fully release all tension on the Torsion bar.



Very true.

Also, when pressing out the LCA bushings you will end up with the outer sleeve securely attached to the ID of the forging, by the time you get the rubber out, etc... What I have done to remove it fairly painlessly is to drop a big washer or a thick piece of metal in the hole then fold the outer sleeve over the top of it and press it out from the other side. Folding is accomplished with a hammer and chisel and no mercy. If you have a MIG you can weld in a piece or just run a bead inside the sleeve to shrink the metal, thereby allowing it to be removed easier.

 

[Revhendo]

It's also recommended that you take off the Upper Control Arm bumper to fully release all tension on the Torsion bar.



Very true.

Also, when pressing out the LCA bushings you will end up with the outer sleeve securely attached to the ID of the forging, by the time you get the rubber out, etc... What I have done to remove it fairly painlessly is to drop a big washer or a thick piece of metal in the hole then fold the outer sleeve over the top of it and press it out from the other side. Folding is accomplished with a hammer and chisel and no mercy. If you have a MIG you can weld in a piece or just run a bead inside the sleeve to shrink the metal, thereby allowing it to be removed easier.

x2. That LCA bushing is a pain. Wish I had known about that trick when I started doing suspension work eons ago.

 

[Cranky]

What about if you replace the stock type rubber bushings with poly ones?

 

[5.7 hemi]

If you do replace the rubber with poly I've heard you need to use a different pivot arm. Check with FirmFeel, they got the low down on that.

 

[eagleone1983]

I didn't have to replace my pivot arm when I went with the PST poly kit.

 

[5.7 hemi]

I think firmfeel uses a different material, delrin or something like that, I guess I should check it out first.