torsion bars scare me!

[YY1]

PST shows poly-graphite LCA bushings are not available for 66-67 B body, and "OEM" style are supplied in there kits. Wonder why?

In my experience, it's always been the uppers that were worn out.

This is the next step in my project as well.

 

[Gary_gtx67]

I had one break on me while sitting at a stop light. Didn't know what to think! Although my girlfriend at the time started crying saying that her fatass broke my car! Lmao! Poor girl only weighed 110 at 5'7!

 

[68sportsatelliteragtop]

Check out the LCA pivot with the grease fitting for use with the poly bushings. It may be a little weaker then a stock unit, but if you keep it greased you won't get the squeek from the bushings.

 

[Fanofpetty]

I just put energy suspension poly bushings in my duster, and you actually leave the outer shell of your old bushing and re-use it. the new poly bushing slips right in, the old outer shell with the supplied greese.

 

[Propwash]

I just put energy suspension poly bushings in my duster, and you actually leave the outer shell of your old bushing and re-use it. the new poly bushing slips right in, the old outer shell with the supplied greese.

I have read/heard absolute horror stories with those LCA poly bushings. I just had fresh bushings (MOOG-Rubber) pressed in the LCA's for my roadrunner. Before doing so, I researched the Poly slide in replacements and ended up reading all kinds of posts about negative issues with them. Biggest problem's, too much slop-No internal binding/hold. After effect's, wheel hop/vibration and poor tracking as well as wandering. I spoke with the alignment shop about the poly's and they won't even install them even though they are 10 times easier to install than the rubber ones..

Wish you the best of luck with yours. Let us know how they pan out. I'm really interested to know how they handle for you. My Coronet is in need of bushings down there as well.

 

[68sportsatelliteragtop]

I have read/heard absolute horror stories with those LCA poly bushings. I just had fresh bushings (MOOG-Rubber) pressed in the LCA's for my roadrunner. Before doing so, I researched the Poly slide in replacements and ended up reading all kinds of posts about negative issues with them. Biggest problem's, too much slop-No internal binding/hold. After effect's, wheel hop/vibration and poor tracking as well as wandering. I spoke with the alignment shop about the poly's and they won't even install them even though they are 10 times easier to install than the rubber ones..

Wish you the best of luck with yours. Let us know how they pan out. I'm really interested to know how they handle for you. My Coronet is in need of bushings down there as well.

I put the poly LCA bushings in alomg with the greasable pins. I didn't notice any handling problems but it didn't take long for the front end alignment to go away. I did some checking and turns out the poly bushings won't keep the toe in correct. Firm Feel recommends the adjustable strut rods to correct the problem. If I have to pull the LCA out to change the strut rods I will probably just go with the rubber bushings and leave the stock struts.

 

[Propwash]

Sounds like if you're having to slap $200-300 adjustable strut rods in, you're only putting a band-aid on a symptom and not fixing the problem, poly bushings. God know's what else it could lead to down the road. I'm with you 68', Roadrunner already has fresh rubber as well as adjustable strut rods, and the Coronet will be getting rubber as well

 

[canblue]

I found the a piece of chain, wrapped around the torsion bar and a come-along is an easy way to remove the the torsion bar. The chain may slip but it will eventually grab.
No banging or extra sweat.

 

[vintagetin]

Wow this thread is still going! Just to share, I rebuild the entire front end of the car and was all very easy except for the lower control arm bushings. They had to be removed with a an air hammer. I also sharpened the tip of a large flat head screw driver and used it as a punch to get behind it. That actually worked better than the air hammer and took far less time. The torsion bars slid right out after loosening the adjustment bolts and pulling the clips from the rear. There was 0 tension on them and I did not have to beat on them or put a pipe wrench on them, they literally just slid right out.