Torsion bars

[bobtile]

I'm looking for some advice on the front suspension for my car. It's a 68 GTX. I know back in the day, Direct Connection manual had said for weight transfer on the track, you should install worn (50,000 mile I believe) front shocks and install 6 cylinder torsion bars. I know there are better choices for the front shocks now, but would anyone recommend the torsion bar swap or are there better choices for that now as well? I am turning my attention more towards the track now, but still intend on driving the car on the street. I am not really concerned too much with its street manners as I still think that I am 18. I will be disconnecting my front sway bar, and moving the battery to the trunk as well. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[SUPERSTOCKRACER]

Bob, six cylinder torsion bars are the way to go or buy from firm feel the light torsion bars they offer for loosening up the front end.It'scall about weight transfer.
A good double adjustable front shock such as strange or Afco's would be a great addition to get the weight transferred.
But then you'll need a good set of adjustable in the rear to get everything working in unison.

 

[Budnicks]

yeah a 273-318/or SB 0.88" front torsion bar or the slant 6 0.86" torsion bars for the track... Lamb, QA1, Afco, etc, Strange Engineering also make some great shocks too, most all adjustable shocks would be great, even Rancho-Calvert/Caltracs makes some decent shocks too, like the old Gabriel 90/10's will work great if you plant the "rear tires" properly... I'd suggest calling a few of them & pick their brains... sounds like your going in the correct direction thou... good luck Bobtile, low ET's here we come

 

[SUPERSTOCKRACER]

problem with using 40 + year old torsion bars are they can sag and throw off your weight and get a slop sided car and then you'll have to keep adjusting your torsion bars to get a level car again.

 

[bobtile]

yeah a 273-318/or SB 0.88" front torsion bar or the slant 6 0.86" torsion bars for the track... Lamb, QA1, Afco, etc, Strange Engineering also make some great shocks too, most all adjustable shocks would be great, even Rancho-Calvert/Caltracs makes some decent shocks too, like the old Gabriel 90/10's will work great if you plant the "rear tires" properly... I'd suggest calling a few of them & pick their brains... sounds like your going in the correct direction thou... good luck Bobtile, low ET's here we come

Thanks Budnicks, the small items first. The money ain't coming' in fast enough right now for the big ticket items that I want.

- - - Updated - - -

problem with using 40 + year old torsion bars are they can sag and throw off your weight and get a slop sided car and then you'll have to keep adjusting your torsion bars to get a level car again.

That makes sense. I guess with my Direct Connection book being 30+ years old, they were recommending torsion bars that were probably only 10 years old.

 

[dvw]

What engine, trans, axle, tire combo do you have? Your strapped for cash? If it's mild you may be able to get away with the stock stuff. A good set of tires will go along way with a mild combo.
Doug

 

[bobtile]

440 cnc'd stealth heads 11:1 comp. 1.6 roller rockers hyd. Roller can 2-4bbl. 727 rev. Manual valve body.. 8.75 410 Detroit locker . plan on 10 inch slicks for the spring. Ss springs adj. Snubber. More upgrades as money allows, but that's about it for now.

 

[WAYNES WORLD]

I have a pair of the .88 bars I took off my car. They only had 65k miles on them and no rust on the car. Cheap
PM me if intrested.
Wayne

 

[1966satellite]

I am replacing the 318 torsion bars on my 66 satellite and would be willing to trade them for your sway bar set up. Pm me if you're interested.

 

[dvw]

440 cnc'd stealth heads 11:1 comp. 1.6 roller rockers hyd. Roller can 2-4bbl. 727 rev. Manual valve body.. 8.75 410 Detroit locker . plan on 10 inch slicks for the spring. Ss springs adj. Snubber. More upgrades as money allows, but that's about it for now.

I run my street car which is a supercharged small block F-Body. 10.5wX28,4.30,stock rear springs with 2 extra leaves. Single adjustable QA1 rear shocks. The rest of the suspension is stock including the front shocks. The converter flashes to 5600. This car would hook in a mud puddle. mid 1.5 60 ft, 11.0@122, 3890lbs.
Doug

 

[Budnicks]

looks like a damn fun/fast "street car" !! {with a 5600rpm converter, do you have 4.88:1 or 5.13:1 gears}

 

[bobtile]

I run my street car which is a supercharged small block F-Body. 10.5wX28,4.30,stock rear springs with 2 extra leaves. Single adjustable QA1 rear shocks. The rest of the suspension is stock including the front shocks. The converter flashes to 5600. This car would hook in a mud puddle. mid 1.5 60 ft, 11.0@122, 3890lbs.
Doug

Good looking car. It's great that the car hooks with that power, unfortunately, mine doesn't hook at all , so I need whatever help I can give to it.

 

[SUPERSTOCKRACER]

Bob, I think I have a set of adjustable rear shocks you can use if you want them. bet they work great on your car.

 

[bobtile]

Bob, I think I have a set of adjustable rear shocks you can use if you want them. bet they work great on your car.

Hell yeah, I'll even let you bolt em on for me in the pits when I see you in April

 

[daredevil]

Try it without the snubber first. SS springs need room to work. Snubbing too tight will unload the tires.

 

[bobtile]

Actually didn't put the snubber on yet. Just in the works for the spring.

 

[dvw]

Good looking car. It's great that the car hooks with that power, unfortunately, mine doesn't hook at all , so I need whatever help I can give to it.

The post was not made to brag on mine (not all that great). Just showing you what you can do with next to nothing. Now lets fix yours. What tires are you running now? what air pressure? What converter. What rear springs? What intake and carbs? Do you have current performance numbers? Remember 60 fts are a function of power as well as hook. 10.5 tires are a great 1st step
Doug

 

[bobtile]

I have street tires on it now. Bfg 275/60/15. Stock convertor (I'll change that when I get money) best time is 12.64 @ 112. Best 60 ft is 1.9 but mostly 2.0 or 2.1. I plan on slicks and wheels, but again, money is the issue right now. I want to do small items right now that are cheap and not that much trouble. So with that, I figure torsion bars, adjustable shocks, battery relocation, adj. Snubber.

 

[dvw]

I have street tires on it now. Bfg 275/60/15. Stock convertor (I'll change that when I get money) best time is 12.64 @ 112. Best 60 ft is 1.9 but mostly 2.0 or 2.1. I plan on slicks and wheels, but again, money is the issue right now. I want to do small items right now that are cheap and not that much trouble. So with that, I figure torsion bars, adjustable shocks, battery relocation, adj. Snubber.

I'm assuming they are not Drag Radials? Slicks alone should put you in the 11s. Next I'd buy a converter. At your power level call Kenny Ford at PTC. For less than $500 he's going to set you up. Spend the money there before moving the battery (unless you have free cable available. Same with the torsion bars, someone out there must have a set to donate to this just cause. Good shocks will set you back more than the converter. My bet is slicks and a converter will get it down to at least 11.50.

Doug

 

[bobtile]

Thanks for the advice. I love working on the car, so if I can do a bunch of small stuff on the cheap to keep me busy, I'll do that. The tires I have are not drag radials, so I know I need to take care of that. I can get torsion bars for about 50 bucks and relocate battery kit for 100. So, when work picks up again, it will be a torque converter for sure and then go from there. I don't want t to put a cage in this car, so I'll go u til I hit 11.50. Thanks for the recommendation on the TQ con.