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TQ fuel leak at fuel supply line

Charlied

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Help !
If by chance you’ve see my recent posts I was dealing with an internal fuel, which with advice of many you guys I fixed that problem.I carefully reassembled and put it on the car today. It started right up and fast idle perfect. Checked it and fuel was almost gushing where fuel line enters carb. Rechecked to be sure connections were tight, backed them out and retightened. Started the car, still leaks.
Seems like something blocking fuel flow, any thoughts? What is perplexing to me is enough fuel is getting through to have the car run smooth.
Just to add to the mystery, never had a leak like this previously. Frustrated.

Thanks
 
A leak a leak. Is the gas running inside the carb or onto to intake? What kind of connections hose with clamps or flare fittings. A picture of where leak is, hold something pointing at leak sight. WITH OUT ENGINE RUNNING! Your working on a Thermo Quad right? From what I read they are tough to work on. Think your over your head. Find a pro who rebuilds TQ.
 
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A leak a leak. Is the gas running inside the carb or onto to intake? What kind of connections hose with clamps or flare fittings. A picture of where leak is, hold something pointing at leak sight. WITH OUT ENGINE RUNNING!
Thanks Fran will send photos in the morning.
Leak is where fuel line, steel with flared fitting, screws into carb supply port. Never had a leak at this location before.
 
You should take apart connection and take pic of sealing surface. Flares are simple.
 
You should take apart connection and take pic of sealing surface. Flares are simple.
YES.....It's a mechanical connection.....usually a male inverted flare nut, on the tube connection with either a 37-1/2° JIC angle or a SAE 45° flare......but both components, flare nut and flare seat MUST be the same...DO NOT MIX ONE TYPE WITH THE OTHER TYPE. IN ADDITION, DO NOT USE TEFLON TAPE OR THREAD SEALING COMPOUNDS on the connections.....they are a dry fit.....in spite of what youve been told by others.
BOB RENTON
 
Your connection must be concentric, the flare must have compressibility, and it obviously must be tight. Install dry.
 
Your connection must be concentric, the flare must have compressibility, and it obviously must be tight. Install dry.
Correct.....usually the flare joint is a "double flare" .....single flare joints are susceptible to pinch off and never copper or aluminium tubing which is subject to fatigue failure....
BOB RENTON
 
Many times it is a crack in the steel fuel line at the flare from being over tightened.
 
Reading post #3, the leak is where the fuel fitting screws into the alum top, NOT where the fuel line screws into the steel adaptor.

I never liked the thin black washer used in that location. Get a red fibre washer & it should fix the problem.
 
Where does one get a "red fiber washer"????....I guess at the red fiber washer store .....
BOB RENTON
Where does one get a "red fiber washer"????....I guess at the red fiber washer store .....
BOB RENTON
Just FYI, red fiber washer store is Advance auto parts, Dorman kit.
Attached picture of connection ,not that you don’t this from experience. My worry, no frustration, disappointment, is that I somehow screwed something up on reassembly. What’s puzzling to me is that it started right up and fast idle was as smooth. Never had a leak at this location before. Question is is there something internal that could force fuel back.
I have a bad habit of over complicating things, when I should follow the KISS method ( keep it simple stupid).
Thanks

IMG_1744.jpeg


IMG_1745.jpeg
 
Reading post #3, the leak is where the fuel fitting screws into the alum top, NOT where the fuel line screws into the steel adaptor.

I never liked the thin black washer used in that location. Get a red fibre washer & it should fix the problem.
Reading post #3, the leak is where the fuel fitting screws into the alum top, NOT where the fuel line screws into the steel adaptor.

I never liked the thin black washer used in that location. Get a red fibre washer & it should fix the problem.
 
Found fiber washer, will give it a shot. Puzzling that I never had this problem previously given nothing changed.
Question is did I screw something up in reassembly?

IMG_1745.jpeg


IMG_1744.jpeg
 
Either bad gasket or your flare. Get a new gasket and a new flare, must be a double. Single flares crack on end. Check the seat where the flared line goes for damage.
 
Either bad gasket or your flare. Get a new gasket and a new flare, must be a double. Single flares crack on end. Check the seat where the flared line goes for damage.
I’m a little slow on the update, please explain double flare ? I have a new fiber gasket.
Been poking around looking for new fuel line, any suggestions where to buy?
 
You need to determine where the leak is coming from:
- the fitting that screws into the air horn
- or the fuel line.
 
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