Trans Cooler Line met Pulley

[ToddMcF2002]

When I tightened my trans cooler line at the radiator the other day I must have moved one of the lines a bit because it ran into the lower pulley and I didn't notice it. I heard a noise but thought it was the water pump - so while distracted by that the pulley ate a hole in the cooler line. What a mess. What PSI flows though the line? Can I cut and splice in fluid rated hose?

 

[493 Mike]

Yes you can use hose, 35 PSI max, but you can just cut the line in two and splice it with a tubing union, compression style. I'm assuming you have a small gash in the tube.
Mike

 

[ToddMcF2002]

Yes you can use hose, 35 PSI max, but you can just cut the line in two and splice it with a tubing union, compression style. I'm assuming you have a small gash in the tube.
Mike

Exactly. Its sliced about 1/2 way through. Any leads on a compression fitting kit? If I can leave it all metal I certainly will. I read the line is 5/16?

 

[1 Wild R/T]

If the cut is in a straight area of tubing the compression coupler will work great... Your not the first to have that issue....

Lowes & Home Depot both have to order it... A local auto parts might have it... Twenty years ago they likely would have, today not so much...

Amazon has them but it's a 10 pack... Still cheap enough & you'll have spares (That you'll never need cause you've got them)

https://www.amazon.com/Brass-Compre...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

 

[ruffcut]

Any auto part store will have what you need.

 

[beanhead]

Yeah it's messy! An old girlfriend of mine drove a lowered (LOW!) '65 Caddy CoupeD. Somewhere along the way she drug the trans pan over something because when I went out the garage a half hour after she parked it, there was like an 8-foot round pool of ATF on the floor. The hole in the pan was about the size of a pea...

 

[Moms68]

A single or double flare union would be the way to go. Personally, I don’t like compression fittings.

 

[493 Mike]

A single or double flare union would be the way to go. Personally, I don’t like compression fittings.

View attachment 1193690

I will agree with the flared connection but, having been a Journeyman Plumber for 30 years, I used compression fittings ALOT. In this situation I suspect the tools for flaring are not on hand.
Mike

 

[ToddMcF2002]

I will agree with the flared connection but, having been a Journeyman Plumber for 30 years, I used compression fittings ALOT. In this situation I suspect the tools for flaring are not on hand.
Mike

I can do a single flare but is there any reason to think a compression fitting will fail? I'll replace the whole line at some point but I just want to get the car on the road

 

[shepherm]

I had this happen last week on the Charger I just bought. I cut the line and spliced with transmission hose and hose clamps. I've driven it around for a few days and haven't had any issue. I'm still ordering new lines on ebay for $45, but it should work until they come in.

 

[RJRENTON]

A single or double flare union would be the way to go. Personally, I don’t like compression fittings.

View attachment 1193690

IMO.... The double flare using male inverted flare fittings is definitely the way to go. The double flare connection is vibration free at the low pressure noted and leak free. You absolutely do not want a leak happening while going down the road.....rubber hoses while functional are a poor substitute for hard lines.
BOB RENTON

 

[dadsbee]

Don't use rubber hose and clamps unless you have the tools to put a bead on the ends of each tube section...

 

[toolmanmike]

I will agree with the flared connection but, having been a Journeyman Plumber for 30 years, I used compression fittings ALOT. In this situation I suspect the tools for flaring are not on hand.
Mike

A compression fitting would work just fine at that low of pressure. (as you know)

 

[493 Mike]

Don't use rubber hose and clamps unless you have the tools to put a bead on the ends of each tube section...
View attachment 1193855
View attachment 1193856
View attachment 1193858

I've never seen that tool. Do you know who makes it? I have always used the first stage of a double flare to make the bulge, which works fine. Steel tubing requires a double flare as single flares often split the tube.
Mike

 

[dadsbee]

I've never seen that tool. Do you know who makes it? I have always used the first stage of a double flare to make the bulge, which works fine. Steel tubing requires a double flare as single flares often split the tube.
Mike

Pretty sure it came from ATS (Aircraft Tool Supply). It's meant for aluminum tube, but if you slowly bring the ball bearings out it'll put a big enough bead on steel to keep the hoses from blowing off. Just checked, they want stupid money for them now. I paid about 20 bucks each for mine. Also see they don't go smaller than 3/8ths now either.. I have a 1/4", 5/16, 3/8th and a 1/2". https://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalog/topages/ezbeader.php?clickkey=52413

 

[ckessel]

If you do the hose and clamp fix, make sure the hose is rated for that use. Fuel line is not unless otherwise specified.

 

[70chall440]

I've never seen that tool. Do you know who makes it? I have always used the first stage of a double flare to make the bulge, which works fine. Steel tubing requires a double flare as single flares often split the tube.
Mike

Russell and/or Erals sells them, you get get them from Summit, Jegs, etc.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...iEbXqzcDeSdUwjRJz30zGTExQnPzW4bRoCLtAQAvD_BwE

 

[ToddMcF2002]

For now I did the 5/16 compression fitting seems to hold nicely. My lift is currently occupied but I’ll replace the line ASAP