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Transmission 727

They are not hard, follow the FSM, be careful and they just work. If I remember, they were originally designed for 200-250hp. THEY were kinda short-sighted!
 
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In that bell crank where the linkage goes down behind the motor there is a rig pin hole. With a pin (drill bit that fits hole) in the hole the lever on the transmission should be forward against the stop and the slot on the arm against the carb pin. Service manual shows it all.
The service manual describes the procedure and I watched a video on how it's done. They use a 3/16" rod to hold the top bell crank. It says that you have to use a "special" tool at the linkage on the transmission to hold it so you can adjust the length of the intermediate rod. Does anyone know what the "special" tools is?
 
In that bell crank where the linkage goes down behind the motor there is a rig pin hole. With a pin (drill bit that fits hole) in the hole the lever on the transmission should be forward against the stop and the slot on the arm against the carb pin. Service manual shows it all.
 
What gears are you running? Shifts will feel harsher in a car with 4.10's than one with 2.76's. If there is a blocker rod under the accumulator piston, take it out, and throw it away. I quite often build 727's without the accumulator spring. Some applications came without one, from the factory.
Another option, is to get another valve body out of a junkyard 727, and start over. If you can find one out of '71 and newer pre-lockup transmission, this will give you part throttle kickdown. Meaning you do not have to mash the gas pedal to the floor, to shift back a gear. The year of the transmission is marked on the valve body on the area over the accumulator servo.
 
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I agree, installing the accumulator spring will soften your shifts, a fairly easy job. I haven't checked, but do a search on YouTube, much easier to watch a video than reading!
 
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