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Tricks for camshaft change?

Secret Chimp

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I'm about to install a Summit 6900 in my 67 wagon (318). I'm a bit concerned about the distributor gear alignment.

I'm leaving the intake manifold on - it's a known running setup, I don't want to install the Performer and AVS I have at the same time since I've never run that carb before.

How can I mark the location of the distributor drive gear to make sure I get it installed back in the right location? Sharpie on a stick down the bore in the block? It seems pretty far down in the hole. I did a crap job of reinstalling my distributor last time (without touching the gear) and don't want the same problem with starting on a brand new cam.
 
Hello. There has been a lot of talk on this subject when I installed my distributor. Look at DISTRIBUTOR LIGNUP PROBLEMS ( a thread I started ). That may help. A lot of people helped me out on this subject.
 
Found your thread, I can't believe the idea of getting it close enough to keep the vacuum canister away and just making sure the rotor lines up properly has escaped me this long...
 
cam change

I'm about to install a Summit 6900 in my 67 wagon (318). I'm a bit concerned about the distributor gear alignment.

I'm leaving the intake manifold on - it's a known running setup, I don't want to install the Performer and AVS I have at the same time since I've never run that carb before.

How can I mark the location of the distributor drive gear to make sure I get it installed back in the right location? Sharpie on a stick down the bore in the block? It seems pretty far down in the hole. I did a crap job of reinstalling my distributor last time (without touching the gear) and don't want the same problem with starting on a brand new cam.

Chimp

I will post some pages from the 68 shop manual.

Hope this Helps you
Jeff
 

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cam change

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You don't plan on removing your intake?? You plan on snaking out the lifters to install the cam? Also, IMHO, you need to learn how to time the engine before you tackle a cam change. The info that 64post posted should help but man, you're going to have a ton of fun getting the lifters out and back in with the intake in the way.
 
You don't plan on removing your intake?? You plan on snaking out the lifters to install the cam? Also, IMHO, you need to learn how to time the engine before you tackle a cam change. The info that 64post posted should help but man, you're going to have a ton of fun getting the lifters out and back in with the intake in the way.

It's not that big of a deal. I bought a little $7 tool that grabs the lifters from the inside lip on the top. I already have the rockers off from changing my valve springs - I tried it already on a couple of the front ones, it works great.

And I've already timed DOHC belt-driven engines before, timing these old things is a snap by comparison. I've only had this car since last May, I'm still learning some of the particulars of older OHV engines.
 
The OHV engines ain't hard either. You shouldn't have any problems but swapping out all the lifters like that is like doing heart surgery through the mouth lol. I've swapped a few bad lifters on a big block once by going through the head and it wasn't any picnic. I dropped one lifter and had a hard time getting a hold of it again and then I had one that had some varnish on the bottom and it didn't want to come out. I have the same tool probably....and so long as the lifters come up easily, you shouldn't lose grip but if they are stubborn, good luck.
 
Does the outer grille trim need to come out to clear the bottom of the cam on a 67 Coronet? I already have the center section out of course. I'm trying to eyeball it but I can't really tell.
 
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