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Trunk lid not aligned with dutchman panel.... How do I Fix this?

Not sure the surface that the gasket rests on needs to be lowered?
It would be nice to put the trunk weather strip in and check that. But doesn't it need to be glued? I don't think I'm ready for that.
How do you temporarily install that?


I get it. Fit EVERYTHING before welding! Lesson learned..... again!
ALL YOU ROOKIES.... pay attention.

Yup, that's why I am asking how to fix what I have gotten myself into.

And I appreciate all of the help!

Decklid gaskets are cheap. Can you just tape it on temporarily with masking tape?
 
I had the same exact problem on my '68, however my Dutchman was the original and I had a new AMD trunk lid. I had my Dutchman panel off when I did new quarters. When I reinstalled the Dutchman I clamped it right over my spot weld holes so it was in the same exact spot. The center of my original trunk lid sat low as well as the new AMD lid. The only thing that I could figure is that the Dutchman moved around a little bit even though I cooled it after each plug weld. I ended up talking dirty to the lip of the Dutchman by way of a 2x4 and a hammer. I went back and forth little by little and brought the center of the Dutchman down to around 1/16". This got me close enough for a skim coat when it came time for bodywork.

This was putting the trunk lid in place for the first time with it adjusted as best as I could get it with the bumpers and trunk rubber taped into place. You can see that the center of the Dutchman is higher than the lid.

2024-07-19_03-09-38.jpg


After massaging the Dutchman, gapping both sides of the lid and even adding to the bottom of the lip on the trunk lid. Mocking the trim up before the car went to acid dip and e coat.

2024-07-19_03-17-23.jpg


2024-07-19_03-18-23.jpg
 
Cut a 2x4 just long enough to go from the center of the trunk pan up to the deck lid then close the trunk and push the center up a little. Work your way around. It looks like the outer corners fit well but the center of the trunk lid is sunken. Maybe an easy alternative to cutting and welding.. Just a thought Pushing the center up a tad with a 2x4 seems like it would work and raise the trunk lid body line to the dutchman panel.
 
I had the same exact problem on my '68, however my Dutchman was the original and I had a new AMD trunk lid. I had my Dutchman panel off when I did new quarters. When I reinstalled the Dutchman I clamped it right over my spot weld holes so it was in the same exact spot. The center of my original trunk lid sat low as well as the new AMD lid. The only thing that I could figure is that the Dutchman moved around a little bit even though I cooled it after each plug weld. I ended up talking dirty to the lip of the Dutchman by way of a 2x4 and a hammer. I went back and forth little by little and brought the center of the Dutchman down to around 1/16". This got me close enough for a skim coat when it came time for bodywork.

This was putting the trunk lid in place for the first time with it adjusted as best as I could get it with the bumpers and trunk rubber taped into place. You can see that the center of the Dutchman is higher than the lid.

View attachment 1697141

You hit the lip of the dutchman? You mean you took the trunk lid off and hit the gutter lip?


Cut a 2x4 just long enough to go from the center of the trunk pan up to the deck lid then close the trunk and push the center up a little. Work your way around. It looks like the outer corners fit well but the center of the trunk lid is sunken. Maybe an easy alternative to cutting and welding.. Just a thought Pushing the center up a tad with a 2x4 seems like it would work and raise the trunk lid body line to the dutchman panel.
I tried something like this.
 
Sorry to hear that, Don. I know how much going backwards sucks. Can you cut the plenum panel out and reattached after pulling and the deck filler at the proper height - the deck lid in place as a guide. Might be the least destructive path? Even if you need to get a new / used plenum panel. Good luck!!
 
You hit the lip of the dutchman? You mean you took the trunk lid off and hit the gutter lip?



I tried something like this.
Yes, I hit the area where the seal sits and it brought the dutchman down in the middle. The welding seemed to put slightly more radius across the Dutchman side to side so hitting it flattened it out to match the crown of the front of the trunk lid.
 
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When i redone my 72 road runner the lip was higher than it should be due to a lot of work being done on the lid so i placed a short length of wood on the lip & used a rachet strap to pull the dutchman panel down about a 1/4" plus a bit for spring back worked well the corners stayed in place
 
Sorry to hear that, Don. I know how much going backwards sucks. Can you cut the plenum panel out and reattached after pulling and the deck filler at the proper height - the deck lid in place as a guide. Might be the least destructive path? Even if you need to get a new / used plenum panel. Good luck!!
Hey Paul, I am thinking that if I were to slice the plenum where it attaches under the gutter (slice the entire length, reducing the boxing strength) that might allow me to move the dutchman panel down. I will look at it today or tomorrow.

Yes, I hit the area where the seal sits and it brought the dutchman down in the middle. The welding seemed to put slightly more radius across the Dutchman side to side so hitting it flattened it out to match the crown of the front of the trunk lid.
Another option I will look into. Thanks!
When i redone my 72 road runner the lip was higher than it should be due to a lot of work being done on the lid so i placed a short length of wood on the lip & used a rachet strap to pull the dutchman panel down about a 1/4" plus a bit for spring back worked well the corners stayed in place
What did you attach the other end of the ratchet strap to? Or was your trunk floor out when you pulled it and you attached it to a frame jig?
 
Used a flat plate with an eyebolt attached with high power magnets to hold it to the trunk floor had to use a tyre iron to remove it
 
2x4's and a bottle jack. put a larger one on trunk crossing the frame rails. concentrate on the worst area first. if that area is say 12", then start with a 8' 2x4. jack slow dont go to far with the metal, then adjust size according to area that is offset. did it on my 68 worked great good luck
 
2x4's and a bottle jack. put a larger one on trunk crossing the frame rails. concentrate on the worst area first. if that area is say 12", then start with a 8' 2x4. jack slow dont go to far with the metal, then adjust size according to area that is offset. did it on my 68 worked great good luck
Hey Don, good to see you are still in the game!
Didn't you sell your Charger?

So I'm sorry I'm a little slow and don't follow.
2x4's and a bottle jack. put a larger one on trunk crossing the frame rails.
So lay a couple of 2x4's on the trunk pan, spanning over the frame rails right?
So I am pushing up against the trunk lid that is closed and latched? Were do I push?
concentrate on the worst area first. if that area is say 12",
This would be the center, you mean 12" from trunk floor to the trunk lid? So I would be reaching through the tail light openings and measuring?
then start with a 8' 2x4.
8 foot 2x4? you lost me
jack slow dont go to far with the metal,

then adjust size according to area that is offset.
????
 
yes charger is sold, but allowed me to reinvest in more cars

yes against trunk with another 2x4 or similar that fits the underneath of the trunk lid properly on top of bottle jack paying close attention not to damage anything THIS IS SURGERY, it can come out good but if your not paying close attention, and know when to stop, it could be bad :(.

center meaning the lowest part of the lid that needs raised, if its the whole thing the stay an inch or two back from each side of the area to be raised.

typo 8" that is if the area to be raised is say 12" or if its the whole deck lid follow the follow previous sentence above.

yes don't bend it beyond where it needs to sit to be flush, I would try it a little, release pressure metal will bounce back, observe where its moving to and adjust as necessary.

push it up to align the trunk lid to the deck. you may be not able to go all the way, you may have to hold the sides down with something from above and it may change your side reveals



I did this procedure with both of my rear quarters on my charger to align the sides up with the trunk lid, worked very well. a little at a time or you'll f it up.

Good luck, go slow thats what she said.
:lol:
 
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yes charger is sold, but allowed me to reinvest in more cars

yes against trunk with another 2x4 or similar that fits the underneath of the trunk lid properly on top of bottle jack paying close attention not to damage anything THIS IS SURGERY, it can come out good but if your not paying close attention, and know when to stop, it could be bad :(.

center meaning the lowest part of the lid that needs raised, if its the whole thing the stay an inch or two back from each side of the area to be raised.

typo 8" that is if the area to be raised is say 12" or if its the whole deck lid follow the follow previous sentence above.

yes don't bend it beyond where it needs to sit to be flush, I would try it a little, release pressure metal will bounce back, observe where its moving to and adjust as necessary.

push it up to align the trunk lid to the deck. you may be not able to go all the way, you may have to hold the sides down with something from above and it may change your side reveals



I did this procedure with both of my rear quarters on my charger to align the sides up with the trunk lid, worked very well. a little at a time or you'll f it up.

Good luck, go slow thats what she said.
:lol:
I see no problem pushing the center up as you describe.
It does seem like if I push the center up, the sides would want to move up as they are supported by the trunk hinges which don't seem like they would be very strong.

"you may have to hold the sides down with something from above"
the only thing I can think of would be to weld a plate across

I guess I just have to give it try and see how it reacts
 
you might get some of it at least be careful, and like I said you may have to but something on the sides to keep it from lifting like a longer 2x4 to ceiling wedged with a flat block on the deck to keep from denting it.but even if the gap goes to a quarter, bt the time primer and paint should be close.
 
Here is an update

I had another trunk lid so I threw it on to see if it matched the dutchman profile any better. and it was about the same.
So I put the 1st trunk lid back on and installed the trunk seal. I used double stick tape to hold the seal in and closed the lid.
And presto, the profile looks a LOT better!



20240722_202742.jpg



20240722_202805.jpg



20240722_202823.jpg


As you can see the center of the lid looks good while the left and right sides along the dutchman are slightly raised, also the outer edges along the quarter panels are raised.

Yeah I wouldn't have thought that would happen!

So if I can depress the seal the lid would be positioned exactly like before. down in the center!


In this pic I put a couple of clamps on with the hope of collapsing that seal a bit.

20240722_202857.jpg


So depending on how much I can collapse the seal, will determine what needs adjusting? I guess?

Any thoughts?

Is this the right way?
Adjust the trunk lid to match the edges. Then put the seal in and the lid sits higher.
So you re-adjust the lid? or somehow collapse the seal?
 
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