62MAX
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All end carbs regardless have resin floats.
TUNING A SIX PACK
- Thread starter Bill Monk
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All end carbs regardless have resin floats.
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@62MAX
6bbl information is so valuable, and made a huge difference in the enjoyment and performance of my 70 V-code Roadrunner.
Thanks to you and all who contribute solid recommendations!
6bbl information is so valuable, and made a huge difference in the enjoyment and performance of my 70 V-code Roadrunner.
Thanks to you and all who contribute solid recommendations!
Frustration
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I've been doing a lot of testing from information I learned from this thread. My combo ran good beforehand, but I wanted to see if there was more. 62MAX posted a photo on page 1 regarding opening the outboard carbs idle mixture screws 1/8 turn. I read that originally as seat the screws, then open them up 1/8 turn. That did NOT work. So I went back to testing on my own. After doing so, I realized that it probably said to open 1/8 turn further than they were originally opened. Currently, both of my outboard carbs are at 1 1/4 turn from seated. Runs great.
I'm curious where you guys are hooking up a vacuum gauge? I know it needs to go to a port in the manifold. There is a large port that's currently plugged in the rear of my intake. I'm guessing that is a good place to hook up. Any advise?
I'm curious where you guys are hooking up a vacuum gauge? I know it needs to go to a port in the manifold. There is a large port that's currently plugged in the rear of my intake. I'm guessing that is a good place to hook up. Any advise?
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62MAX
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Or just pull the hose from the PVC and insert it in there.
62MAX
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The second paragraph of what I posted on page one at the beginning of this thread will correct the problem.Forget about the initial number of turns.Cover the outer air bleed's one at a time and adjust until you have no change in rpm's,once you have all four adjusted go back and reset your initial idle speed.
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THIS!!
Here's a reminder (I think it's the same thing as 62MAX is recommending) This was an epiphany in tuning my 6bbl!
mslisaj
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I am looking for a copy of the Chrysler Performace Mod for the 6 pack set up.
40 years ago I obtained a stock Six Pack set up complete with the factory air filter. It's on the Chrysler/Edelbrock aluminum manifold. I had a copy of the recommended Mopar Mods to this such as drilling out the idle restrictors and other orfices, I believe in all three carburetors. Back then it was on my 65 426 wedge in my Satellite. I was racing the car back then at sea level and it ran great. But now I have a purple shaft cam in it and I'm living at 4,000' of elevation. I have been battleing the car for years now it sees as the fuel mixture is just a little fat. The reason I'm looking for that Chrysler Performance Modification information I have forgotton exactly what I had done to these carbs. I'd like to figure out what I can do to return these carbs back to their stock settings. I have dug through all my saved performance information and I can't find the information I used. The car runs strong but I'd love to lean this idle mixture out and I just can't get it there.
Thanks for your help. I also have another stock six pack on a 440 running an Isky 280 cam and it runs and idles perfect. Love to get the 426 running that good.
Regards,
Lisa
40 years ago I obtained a stock Six Pack set up complete with the factory air filter. It's on the Chrysler/Edelbrock aluminum manifold. I had a copy of the recommended Mopar Mods to this such as drilling out the idle restrictors and other orfices, I believe in all three carburetors. Back then it was on my 65 426 wedge in my Satellite. I was racing the car back then at sea level and it ran great. But now I have a purple shaft cam in it and I'm living at 4,000' of elevation. I have been battleing the car for years now it sees as the fuel mixture is just a little fat. The reason I'm looking for that Chrysler Performance Modification information I have forgotton exactly what I had done to these carbs. I'd like to figure out what I can do to return these carbs back to their stock settings. I have dug through all my saved performance information and I can't find the information I used. The car runs strong but I'd love to lean this idle mixture out and I just can't get it there.
Thanks for your help. I also have another stock six pack on a 440 running an Isky 280 cam and it runs and idles perfect. Love to get the 426 running that good.
Regards,
Lisa
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If anyone comes up with this info, I am definitely interested!
66Satellite47
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Here are what I found in the 1980 DC Bible: 1st three are from 1976 Big Block Manual, Fourth Is from 1979 Carb recommendations. EDIT is bold, pics are all from chapters in the 1980 version.
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mslisaj
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Thank you "66Satellite47" that was the exact information I was looking for. I so remember clearly following those instructions. I know I have that information around here someplace. I know I have that Direct Connection manual and will now focus my search for that. Thanks again. What's interesting is I wrote those numbers with a marker on the end carb diaphram lids and you can still see it today.
Again, THANK YOU SO MUCH for the quick reply and for this old information. I so appreciate it.
Again, THANK YOU SO MUCH for the quick reply and for this old information. I so appreciate it.
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EXCELLENT PRESENTATION....
I've installed the Promax jet plate conversions on the end carbs of my RS23V0A GTX. These are almost the same sizes I'm using....with the exception of the front diaphragm side which is 0.088" and center carb 0.64" left and 0.063" right. PVCR @ origional size with 5.0 open point PV. same diaphragm springs and std. kill bleed sizes. My cam is a Crane equivalent to the Mopar 292° 0.509" lift with Crane Roller rocker arms @ 1.6 ratio. I have a Dana 60 with 4.10 gears, which allows a little faster RPM build up. But this combo is what works for me and I'm at ~ 500' MSL with an ave temp of 82° F and wetbulb temp of ~ 73° F, im sure your conditions are different and will require a little "tweeking" (+/- jet sizes and locations)....
BOB RENTON .
other than the PCVR mod, the kill bleed was the main one back then. drag racers would just block it off completely with a piece of lead shot, made it rough on the street, but it opened the secondaries now! the way to handle that roblem was drill and tap for a Allen head screw and then drill the hole you wanted to actuate the secondaries, springs controlled the speed of opening.
I personally never went through all this crap but if you want super performance on the track there are tons of mods on these things, and it has nothing to do with Pro Max metering plates or any of that crap they can be made to do anything the way they are. Just a lot of mods required. some irreversible.
I have the full direct connection Bulletin it was issued way back when, I'll have to find it and if I can scan it into a PDF form I will upload it for you
I personally never went through all this crap but if you want super performance on the track there are tons of mods on these things, and it has nothing to do with Pro Max metering plates or any of that crap they can be made to do anything the way they are. Just a lot of mods required. some irreversible.
I have the full direct connection Bulletin it was issued way back when, I'll have to find it and if I can scan it into a PDF form I will upload it for you
mslisaj
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Thanks "440+6" for your thoughts here. If you find that info before I do a PDF would be appreciated. I'm just an old lady now with a big block street car that tortures the boys with the little 4 and 6 cylinders. The six pack is an awesome running setup and very impressing to look at when you pull the air cleaner. They're definitely a PIA to work on but when they work they work like nothing else.
Thanks again.
Lisa
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I would really like to have that as well!
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Sounds like a combo similar to mine.
Must be fun to drive and sounds great.
Bill Monk
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Have you tuned the outboards? They do contribute fuel and if they are too fat, you will never get the center card dialed in. Start with that and go from there. I can tell you from experience that the promax base with the angled screws is a Godsend because you can tune it on the car. Taking that thing off every time you make an adjustment is a real pain!
mslisaj
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Yes I have tuned the end carbs. I made a little flex tool to get in and balance the idle mixture screws. But both end carbs are at 1/8 turn off the seat or less. But again, these carbs have been modified to the instructions that "440+6" put up. They will really flow fuel when opened. When I modified these carbs I was actively racing the car. Now it's just a Sunday/car show driver. From just my personal experience I would not modify the carbs to that bulletins spec's if your not racing it. As the bulletin says some of those mods are permanent as your opening up restrictions. I think this is what I'm fighting. But again the car is now at 4,000' of elevation instead of sea level, all contributing to a rich idle.
66Satellite47
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Interesting thing that the mods in DC manual I posted say for an un-modified motor. My original experience was with the EDE manifold, '69 end carbs, & modified 500 center carb. I didn't drill the PVCR just the end carb metering plate mains. My motor was true 11.5 CR with 585 lift 260/265@,050 solid cam. Complete failure with the drilled end carb plates., missing above 4000 in 2nd & 3rd. Magnifying glass revealed swirl marks from the drill/pin vise. Switched back to stock end plates ran great. Had already opened the end carb idle mixture screws about 1/8 from stock & opened the idle set screws on end carbs slightly. Used '70 carbs un-modified except the idle mixture screws & idle set screws. Worked great ven with the higher CR & big cam.
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