Turbo BB?

[Sweet5ltr]

Contemplating a turbo in my future possibly for my BBM. Would the easiest method be to install a typical HP exhaust manifold (nearly a block hugger style header, with a very short primary tube length 2-3" to the collector, bolted upside down)? I actually would be running a very small single turbo T70?, as the cranks seem to walk after 700HP in these RB's Mopars and we all know what happens to 8 3/4's... I am no expert on turbos, can someone kind of school me on everything needed in a budget turbo build (other than the obvious blow-through carb, boost timing retard box). Looking at around 8.5-9:1 Compression with the use of custom head gaskets as done in Mopar Muscle Mag'. I would switch to a different solid camshaft, with around 240* dur @ .050/112LSA with the Turbo (maybe a mopar 528 solid as most affordable option?) as I could make up a majority of the power loss. How about those Ebay turbo's? Any direction on a good BOV/Waste gate? What else would I need? Thanks in advance. Only would be looking to make a reliable 650HP which shouldn't be hard with 451 cubes! I have a feeling a turbo would be a lot easier on the 4-speed as well.

 

[Moparmatt72]

For 650hp why not just go all motor? As far as the turbo route yes a 70mm turbo will make that power and more. The compression you mentioned is good lower comp means you can run higher psi but for that power a good waste gate probaly around 10 psi will make that with the turbo but it also depends on your other modifications. Are you going to port match your heads atleast. The manifolds will work just need to make your cross over and flange to the turbo from stainless steel as well as the down pipe juat to handle the heat better but some have used aluminized steel as well just not as long lasting. A reall good waste gate would be a tial or a turbo smart one and as faf as a blow off valve I really like the sound of hks or turbo smart makes a good one. The ebay stuff is hit and miss again have heard of a few running there turbos and haveing no issues. But if I were you you want a good bottom end for your 451 is it a foeged or steel crank? Rods forged? Pistons forged? Its good insurance head work would be better even running ootb edelbrocks or stealths would be better over cast heads. Blow through carb would need to be modified by a good shop, head gaskets can always just run a cometic very awesome gaskets have used them on my current build amd on my neon srt4 with a bigger 60-1 turbo on it. The 8 3/4 should have no problems handleing that hp but someone elsd could chime in on that

 

[Meep-Meep]

I have a buddy in KC MO that was running an 80 Zephyr wagon with a turbo 351 and an AOD. With the 8.8" rear end and slicks the car ran a best of 10.06, and without the E85 and boost tweaks, it was still a solid mid 10 sec car. It was also a very good street driver, and if you kept your foot out of it, he got 16 MPG. Fuel delivery was with an Accel DFI port system. Other than some very basic knowledge I can't help you, but I say learn about it and do it.

 

[benno440]

talk to nelsonracing engines: http://www.nelsonracingengines.com/

they specialise in twin turbo builds, also check out www.pro-touring.com and turbomopars forum.

 

[Sweet5ltr]

Bottom end already has a forged steel crank and 6-pack rods (balanced/blueprinted), running RPM heads and a Victor Single plane as it is. 650HP is a really radical, pump gas build on motor and would require much more cylinder head, stroke, and camshaft than I am running now. 650HP with a 528MP solid should be a breeze on parts. Pistons are hypers, but I would be running at most 10# of boost to make that kind of power (like mentioned above). I have friends making 800-900+RWHP with carbed small blocks (fords) with Turbo's, just not that many Mopar's are running em' anywhere down here in the South. It just seems to me, the most difficult portion would be getting the tubing done. All the parts can be found relatively easy online used. I am not looking to build a 10K turbo build, just something fun that works.

Here is what I am looking to do, but I would be using an HP manifold on one side. Obviously, I wouldn't be running junkyard sourced parts. http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo82001.html

 

[Sweet5ltr]

This chinese turbo has nothing but good reviews on the turbo forums.. and is dirt cheap! Probably would use something like this (Ebay) ($265):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GT45-HUGE-V...es&hash=item230f5de211&vxp=mtr#ht_4532wt_1008

Turbonetics (Craigslist) Wastegate ($180):
http://daytona.craigslist.org/pts/4057168453.html

Summit (14psi) fuel pump:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3136-0/overview/

MP 528 solid camshaft (241* dur/112LSA) ($200 new).

Custom head gaskets ($150?)

TiAL BOV (Ebay) ($225):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TiAL-Q-50MM...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3386308d94&vxp=mtr

Mechanical fuel pump BOP:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-420004/overview/make/plymouth

MSD Boost timing retard box (ebay-used)($150):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MSD-Boost-T...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4aca5457d1&vxp=mtr

C-Body exhaust manifolds (Look at that heat shield!)($150 shipped):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1973-Chrysl...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec80652d6&vxp=mtr

Front mount intercooler (brackets are already their)(Ebay, used) ($150):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-f...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a85aca874&vxp=mtr

Cant see it costing more than this to modify my carb ($400).
Tuning ($400).
Odds-Ends-Fittings ($400?)
Turbo piping fabrication ($500-600?)

Around $3000-$3200 total..

 

[Supershafts]

Lose those anchor rods man, the only pace those things should be is on your wall.

The turbo you'll probably want a GT42/45 over the T70 if you want to get 700/800 on a single.

I would put it in the exhaust and merge them together and run it down the one side and run the charge pipe back up the other than putting it under the hood, then you have more room for a inter and you gain more thru the loss of heat thru the longer charge pipe that i would do all AL.
.

 

[Sweet5ltr]

Lose those anchor rods man, the only pace those things should be is on your wall.

The turbo you'll probably want a GT42/45 over the T70 if you want to get 700/800 on a single.

I would put it in the exhaust and merge them together and run it down the one side and run the charge pipe back up the other than putting it under the hood, then you have more room for a inter and you gain more thru the loss of heat thru the longer charge pipe that i would do all AL.
.

Only looking for 650-700HP at the crank or so. Wouldn't oiling become more of an issue when it's placed under the car (rear mount oil pump, etc.)? I am not looking to have 2k+ in fab work for the tubing. It would seem to me, much easier to have it right under the hood when it comes to piecing everything together, similar to that article I posted for the budget turbo build. These B-Bodies have plenty of room. Those six pack rods are near bullet proof; not looking to replace them just yet.

 

[Meep-Meep]

That turbo, if done right, can substitute a lot of speed parts that you would otherwise use to make power on a normally aspirated combination. You already know this and I believe you are on the right track. Also keep this in mind: There was a turbo kit available for your class A motorhome. A bolt on kit that went on a late 70's 440 with cast pistons. My buddy had one and said it would put him in the seat. Imagine what you could do with that same engine in a 4000 lb B body?

 

[Supershafts]

Only looking for 650-700HP at the crank or so. Wouldn't oiling become more of an issue when it's placed under the car (rear mount oil pump, etc.)? I am not looking to have 2k+ in fab work for the tubing. It would seem to me, much easier to have it right under the hood when it comes to piecing everything together, similar to that article I posted for the budget turbo build. These B-Bodies have plenty of room. Those six pack rods are near bullet proof; not looking to replace them just yet.

Depends on the car and room beneath it, if you have it , the headers are there and only need to be merged, run the AL charge pipe back and you can send the largest dump you can fit the rest of the way back. The benefit is all that AL charge pipe dissipating heat also

Then you need either 2 options, 1. plumb it from the motor with a RB pump to scavenge it back or 2. make it's own supply tank and oil it that way.

 

[dvw]

My son runs a nearly stock 360 in a 62 Plymouth. At 20psi it's been 10.08@136 with 275/60 drag radials and 3.23 gear @3700 lbs. Even at mild boost (12psi) it ran 10.60 with a 2.76 gear. Blow thru,E-85,stock manifolds,rods,crank.
Doug

 

[Sweet5ltr]

Hey DVW, that is insane; I have checked out your sons car before online. Checking with a friend, who has an 8 second street turbo fox body mustang, he said my car even on as little as 10psi (76MM single turbo) could make around 700RWHP. I mean, it would actually be much better to toss out the 4.10 rear and run a 3.55 for interstate cruising. I may only be able to run 5-8psi as I don't want to grenade the transmission or bottom end. I am really seriously looking into doing this, I may piece it together over the next 12 months. I mean, if the little 'ricers' can toss a turbo setup together it would be an all out disgrace if we couldn't on this big block...

 

[Lowhound]

Hey DVW that's one of the best sleeper cars I have seen!!! I would love to drive that on the street & wait for some rice rocket teenager to make fun of it at a stop light. Love it.

 

[Meep-Meep]

OMG DVW!!!! That thing is hilarious! Ward Cleaver goes to the drags! What a sleeeeeeeeeeeper... THIS is what I'm talking about! Mega bonus points to your son.

 

[19polara64]

Hey DVW, just gotta know what turbo did your son use? looks huge! Also is there a thread for his build?
Thanks

My son runs a nearly stock 360 in a 62 Plymouth. At 20psi it's been 10.08@136 with 275/60 drag radials and 3.23 gear @3700 lbs. Even at mild boost (12psi) it ran 10.60 with a 2.76 gear. Blow thru,E-85,stock manifolds,rods,crank.
Doug

 

[dvw]

Hey DVW, just gotta know what turbo did your son use? looks huge! Also is there a thread for his build?
Thanks

76 mm S475 cheapie, $600 This thing on the street at 15 psi is a handfull. At 20 PSI it's down right spooky. At 12 psi I would bet it would stay together for a long long time. We have never run more than 23 degrees timing, at 20 PSI it only had 18 degrees total. No need for a 3.55, 3.23 is more than enough. Actually the 2.76 worked very well. This thing runs a .490 lift cam. No more than 5900-6000 rpm.
Doug

 

[GrabberOrange69]

my son runs a nearly stock 360 in a 62 plymouth. At 20psi it's been 10.08@136 with 275/60 drag radials and 3.23 gear @3700 lbs. Even at mild boost (12psi) it ran 10.60 with a 2.76 gear. Blow thru,e-85,stock manifolds,rods,crank.
Doug

damn!!!!

 

[Sweet5ltr]

I'm thinking the down pipe would need to be ran out of the passenger fenderwell. Just not sure of my clearance when steering with a 5" tube going through the fender and dumping under the car. I really would like to get a look 'in person' at a B-Body with this type of modification. May try to scour the turbo forums. I wouldn't mind a two-three hour drive in order to get a better picture on how to get this all together in a Mopar.

 

[Moparmatt72]

You can also look at going to the junk yards and seeing if a dodge cummins is in there amd take that and use it a lot of people do that route. For your hp lvl even a 4" exhaust would do fine. Plus if you use the hp manifolds with a cross over yoy can run the exhaust piping over and exit where the factory one does should have room. For more clearance don't run the hp and use the rear exit cast manifolds and just flip them to the front and go that route. The most money would be the fab plus if you want to run a intercooler course you cam look on ebay for universal ic kit 2.5" pipeing would do fine.

 

[Sweet5ltr]

Do you have a link to the manifolds you're describing, I think you are maybe describing the same one I am planning to use? Are you speaking about a 4" downpipe? What are you talking about using off a dodge diesel? Not really sure if an intercooler would be necessary at this boost level, I am only planning on running 5-8psi to make my desired power level but they are inexpensive and the tubing would be straight forward at least as it is the cold side.