Turn-key trouble

[0321Marine]

I've got myself a 69'Satellite Project. After replacing every part imaginable with the ignition system from the harnesses to everything under the hood, I cannot get the turn-key to activate the starter relay. I can jump the starter relay with a conductor just fine. Everything else is functioning just fine accessories, lights, ammeter is functioning and all. But I turn the key....no dice. I'm open to any suggestions or ideas. Ive been staring at the dash wiring for so long I know I'm overlooking something.

 

[6pktgo]

Stare Crazy !!

What shape are the bulk head connector terminals in? Are they clean and the spades tight? I know from in the past that if someone without experience pulls the connection apart @ the fire wall & when doing that , twists the three connections up & down to pry them apart, it tends to open the spades up to were a poor connection is sometimes made.
These three connectors ( on the engine side of the firewall ) are made to have the tangs pulled out on the sides & pulled straight apart. I`ve seen people get these apart by grabbing the connector and going around in circles to get them apart! (Even worse)
Those connections ( especially the females ) must be clean & tight!. :tongue5:

 

[69redrunner]

Is the connection at the back of your ignition switch made-up all the way?
Perhaps your ignition swith is faulty...there mustt be a way to check continuity in the switch to see that the "start" signal is being sent when the key is turned to start.

 

[0321Marine]

What shape are the bulk head connector terminals in? Are they clean and the spades tight? I know from in the past that if someone without experience pulls the connection apart @ the fire wall & when doing that , twists the three connections up & down to pry them apart, it tends to open the spades up to were a poor connection is sometimes made.
These three connectors ( on the engine side of the firewall ) are made to have the tangs pulled out on the sides & pulled straight apart. I`ve seen people get these apart by grabbing the connector and going around in circles to get them apart! (Even worse)
Those connections ( especially the females ) must be clean & tight!. :tongue5:

The Connections all seem to be as tight as can be. It is all completely brand new so there is no wear/tear on them at all. Everything seems to fit nice and snug. I may just pull the entire dash harness out again and go through it all. I have the service manual with all the appropriate schematics. Ill definitely make sure to pay extra attention to the connectors.

 

[0321Marine]

Is the connection at the back of your ignition switch made-up all the way?
Perhaps your ignition swith is faulty...there mustt be a way to check continuity in the switch to see that the "start" signal is being sent when the key is turned to start.

Yes, the connection came attached to the harness. I purchased all of my harnesses from YearOne, so it was pretty much just "plug-n-play". I did not have to worry about putting any connectors or fittings on as one would with say PainlessWiring. The ignition switch is brand new as well. Ill double check the power to the ignition switch connection at the harness and make sure theres a good reading. Im thinking about pulling the harness and putting it back in just in case i missed something.

 

[67 coronet]

is the neutral saftey switch working and hooked up?you can ground the contact point on the relay to check it.

 

[0321Marine]

is the neutral saftey switch working and hooked up?you can ground the contact point on the relay to check it.

I have the neutral switch wire connected to the starter relay, yes. I do not have the reverse light hooked up yet which is on the same connector. Im waiting for a new wiper motor before I can do so since the wire for the reverse light attached to the wiper motor.

 

[goose69]

is the neutral saftey switch working and hooked up?you can ground the contact point on the relay to check it.

This is exactly why my roadrunner wouldn't start. Turn the key to start but no dice. Jump with a screw driver and it started. Once I grounded the relay and bypassed the neutral safety switch the key worked fine. Just have to remember it can be started in gear.

 

[0321Marine]

This is exactly why my roadrunner wouldn't start. Turn the key to start but no dice. Jump with a screw driver and it started. Once I grounded the relay and bypassed the neutral safety switch the key worked fine. Just have to remember it can be started in gear.

Ill have to give that a go and see if it helps. I also just discovered my brand new battery is fried. Its sizzling pretty good and im not even getting 10V out of it anymore. Thank you NAPA. Autozone here I come.

 

[67 coronet]

Ill have to give that a go and see if it helps. I also just discovered my brand new battery is fried. Its sizzling pretty good and im not even getting 10V out of it anymore. Thank you NAPA. Autozone here I come.

if the voltage got that low,you may want to check for a draw.when you get your new fully charged battery and hook it up,hook up the neg side first then tap the pos side to the terminal a few times.look for any sparking at all,will sound like small crackle noise.if you get it,you have a draw.

 

[iraqivet01]

It it is sizzling, something definitely not right. check your connections at your starter. if one of the connection on your starter is wrong, it will do just that.

here's a wire diagram, hope this helps.

http://www.auto-wiring-diagram.com/...cal-wiring-diagram-of-1968-dodge-6-and-v8.jpg

 

[WileE]

Off the top of my head, you may have a bad ground somewhere. As the previous poster stated, check for a draw.

 

[6pktgo]

Faith in Year One ???

Just speaking from past experience, i wouldn`t trust Year One wiring 100%. :angry9:

I bought a 70 Charger headlight harness ,from the firewall to the side markers. i followed the factory service manual to the letter & when i did my test run, turned my switch on in the dash, my headlights came on & my grille doors went closed in front of them. When i turned the switch off, the light went off & the grille doors opened?? :angryfire:
All my connections were designed to fit only one way. The car has a factory original dash harness, & new Year One headlight harness!! What could be wrong??? After changing the dash headlight switch once, changing the relay twice & checking all my dash wiring under a microscope, i went into the engine compartment & follwed the (100% Correct Year One) headlight harness.( one color coded wire @ a time) :coffee:
My headlight motor is a mint original electric with a two prong male/female molded end. Turns out the (100% Correct Year One ) headlight harness , molded motor end connector was backwards!!!!!!! I contacted Year One, they said there must be something else wrong in my system. :argue:
I got my old harness & lo & behold the color coding was backwards from my original, so i cut into the harness about 10 inches back & reversed the two wires & problem solved!! :headbang:
* My point being ,as i said, i wouldn`t trust anything 100% ,other then good clean untouched, factory original. I know these electrical problems can be a big headache ,so i was very aware the first time around on mine, so as not to over look anything and make a dumb mistake.
If you don`t find that your system has a draw, I think you may have to (& it will be no easy task) get an original 69 manual and follow each color coded wire ,from beginning to end ( maybe even label them) , so that you are 100 % sure.

 

[0321Marine]

Just speaking from past experience, i wouldn`t trust Year One wiring 100%. :angry9:

I bought a 70 Charger headlight harness ,from the firewall to the side markers. i followed the factory service manual to the letter & when i did my test run, turned my switch on in the dash, my headlights came on & my grille doors went closed in front of them. When i turned the switch off, the light went off & the grille doors opened?? :angryfire:
All my connections were designed to fit only one way. The car has a factory original dash harness, & new Year One headlight harness!! What could be wrong??? After changing the dash headlight switch once, changing the relay twice & checking all my dash wiring under a microscope, i went into the engine compartment & follwed the (100% Correct Year One) headlight harness.( one color coded wire @ a time) :coffee:
My headlight motor is a mint original electric with a two prong male/female molded end. Turns out the (100% Correct Year One ) headlight harness , molded motor end connector was backwards!!!!!!! I contacted Year One, they said there must be something else wrong in my system. :argue:
I got my old harness & lo & behold the color coding was backwards from my original, so i cut into the harness about 10 inches back & reversed the two wires & problem solved!! :headbang:
* My point being ,as i said, i wouldn`t trust anything 100% ,other then good clean untouched, factory original. I know these electrical problems can be a big headache ,so i was very aware the first time around on mine, so as not to over look anything and make a dumb mistake.
If you don`t find that your system has a draw, I think you may have to (& it will be no easy task) get an original 69 manual and follow each color coded wire ,from beginning to end ( maybe even label them) , so that you are 100 % sure.

Yea, this is what I've been afraid off. I have the 69' service manual like you said and I've been deep into it trying to figure this out. My grounds are solid, and my ignition switch tests fine for conductivity on both IGN post and also the ACC post. I have been worried about having to cut into the wiring harness (*** its wrapped up like no tomorrow) and make sure everything is routed appropriately. That suck about your harness...kind of defeats the purpose in dropping all the cash on one only to have to wire everything yourself in the end anyway. But I think you may be right, I am running out of other options... and patience. I'm may just install a push button/toggle switch to bypass it and just say f*it if I dont find another solution.