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Turn Signal Issue

cjgad

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Jul 13, 2024
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Location
new york
Hello. I just got a 1967 coronet and planned to have it inspected this coming Monday. The turn signals work, but the 4 way flashers don’t, so I was trying to get those working before monday. The gauge cluster only partially works, so I took the gauge cluster out and noticed 4 of the pegs for the instrument plug were gone. I soldered 4 new ones in (using small nails) and put it back on. When I tried it, the same things that didn’t work before still did not work. When I tried the signals, they still worked. I left the right signal on, I started to hear a crackle and saw smoke from the steering wheel. I then turned the signal off, unplugged the cluster plug and tried the signals again, now they won’t work at all. Right front and rear, left front and rear, all don’t work when they did before (just the indicator light on the dash didn’t work). Any troubleshooting tips? I’m assuming I have to take the steering wheel apart and inspect in there. I did buy a wiring diagram.
 
I think you are going to need a new signal switch at the least.
 
smoke is not good. Your journey from here may be easy, it may not. Along with wiring schematics, Factory Service Manuals are indispensable. Before I bought my hard copy of the FSM, I used the free online manuals.
 
I think you are going to need a new signal switch at the least.
I was thinking so. I must have fried it, I just don’t really understand how by using the signal with the only thing different being the plug for the instrument cluster plugged in.
 
Is there a way I could rig up a regular switch to get it to work until a new switch comes in the mail? Not sure if I can run a hot somewhere with a toggle switch to get each side to work. I’m assuming I can’t get the actual switch until after my inspection appointment.
 
Probably should cancel the Monday inspection until you get this sorted out. I would bet you need a new turn signal switch, and maybe more, depending on where the short is.
 
Probably should cancel the Monday inspection until you get this sorted out. I would bet you need a new turn signal switch, and maybe more, depending on where the short is.
Agreed. The short only happened when I used the right turn signal. I could see the charge drop on my voltmeter only when I did the right turn. The left turn signal seemed fine.
 
Should the turn signal blinker always be hot with the key on?
 
Jumpered the flasher, no lights still. Looks like it’s the switch.
 
Have you gone back and double checked against the wiring diagram that the pins you soldered are correct?
 
Well I got impatient and rigged up individual switches for each direction, but I missed my appointment anyway lol.
 
I installed a new turn signal switch. Turn signals work, but brake lights don’t, when they did before. I have also worked on the 4 way flasher switch, but before I started touching the switches, the brake lights worked.
 
The 4 way flasher still is not working, but it wasn’t before and the brake lights still worked. I rigged up a switch with one power input (red wire into emergency flasher connector) and 3 outputs when the switch is met (to the 3 other ports on the connector). This did not make the 4 ways work. Strange thing, when I meet this switch, the interior dome light starts working, when the switch is not met, the dome light doesn’t work. Now with the switch disconnected, only the signals work.
 
No power to the brake light switch, no power to the 4 way blinker. Trying to trace on the wiring diagram where those get power from.
 
The 4-way switch has its own flasher unit. I would check power to the flasher can, and that the flasher works.
Next would be to test the 4-way flasher switch, and then the wiring.
The turn signal switch uses another flasher can unit. The turn signal switch in the steering column often needs replaced.
On the Dash. If Temp, Fuel, and Oil pressure (if a gauge) don't work, check the Instrument Voltage Regulator (IVR) , it us normally plugged into the dash PC board.
If the PC Board is really bad, there are reproduction ones for sale.
The problem with a 57 year old car is usually previous owners have modified the wiring, and the wiring is usually in poor shape just from age.
Same goes for the fuel tank and lines. I replaced the fuel tank and lines on all my old 1960's cars.
 
The 4-way switch has its own flasher unit. I would check power to the flasher can, and that the flasher works.
Next would be to test the 4-way flasher switch, and then the wiring.
The turn signal switch uses another flasher can unit. The turn signal switch in the steering column often needs replaced.
On the Dash. If Temp, Fuel, and Oil pressure (if a gauge) don't work, check the Instrument Voltage Regulator (IVR) , it us normally plugged into the dash PC board.
If the PC Board is really bad, there are reproduction ones for sale.
The problem with a 57 year old car is usually previous owners have modified the wiring, and the wiring is usually in poor shape just from age.
Same goes for the fuel tank and lines. I replaced the fuel tank and lines on all my old 1960's cars.
The 4 way flasher works, I tested it. Problem is right now the 4 way flasher doesn’t even have power to it. Same with the brake light switch, no power to it. The 4 way flasher switch doesn’t have power to it either (checked the red wire). These places did have before previously.
 
The 4 way flasher works, I tested it. Problem is right now the 4 way flasher doesn’t even have power to it. Same with the brake light switch, no power to it. The 4 way flasher switch doesn’t have power to it either (checked the red wire). These places did have before previously.
I realize the 4 way switch doesn’t have power cause the 4 was flasher doesn’t have power (power fed through the flasher to the switch). The turn signal flasher works, has power. The turn signals work as they should with the new switch.
 
Got the brake lights working. Dirty terminals in the fuse box. Only thing not working now is the rear lights for the 4 ways. Front lights blink with 4 way switch on. I see refurb’d switches on eBay, but no new switches, and the ones for sale are kinda pricey for a switch. Is this switch just one hot and when on, puts power to the 3 other ports in the plug? I think so, just verifying. That way I can use an off the shelf switch
 
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