Universal Harness or Car Specific Harness?

[jmopar20]

I plan to re-wire my 73 Roadrunner this winter, and wondering if I should purchase a universal harness or a harness that is specific for my car? The difference between the two is anywhere from $200-$300 regardless of what company I go with, even though the number of circuits and fuses are the same. I plan on taking my time to do this correctly, so having to spend extra time to match the destination of the new colors to the old colors as per the original diagram is fine with me. What extra work is required besides that when installing a universal harness as opposed to one supposedly made for the car? For what it's worth, I plan on going the resto-mod route, so originality is not as important as reliability and longevity, and I prefer the ability to add a few extra components over what the original wiring would allow.

Also, I'll apologize right now if this has been answered already, but I've done several searches and skimmed through upwards of 30 tabs still open in my browser and haven't really found the answer I'm looking for. Thanks everyone in advance for your advice and ideas

 

[texas69bee]

Avoid the electrical gremlins. You said you want reliability and longevity then find someone with a good used one or https://www.yearone.com/Catalog/chrysler.b.body/electrical/harnesses/dash

 

[Car Nut]

Avoid the electrical gremlins. You said you want reliability and longevity then find someone with a good used one or https://www.yearone.com/Catalog/chrysler.b.body/electrical/harnesses/dash

X2 made by M&H to original factory specs, the best plug and play on the market.

 

[747mopar]

I have to disagree with these guys, why in the world put an old outdated electrical system in that was barely adequate to begin with if your going to the trouble of re-wiring the car to begin with........... glass tube fuses, small fuse block, troublesome bulkhead connector, etc. If going the resto route where you might want to clean up the typical engine compartment clutter than why not get a harness that's flexible? I used a universal American Autowire kit, wires are printed clearly showing where they go and there's plenty of length to customize to your liking. The steering harness connection is about the only thing you need to adapt which isn't to hard at all. Just my 2 cents

 

[Car Nut]

I have to disagree with these guys, why in the world put an old outdated electrical system in that was barely adequate to begin with if your going to the trouble of re-wiring the car to begin with........... glass tube fuses, small fuse block, troublesome bulkhead connector, etc. If going the resto route where you might want to clean up the typical engine compartment clutter than why not get a harness that's flexible? I used a universal American Autowire kit, wires are printed clearly showing where they go and there's plenty of length to customize to your liking. The steering harness connection is about the only thing you need to adapt which isn't to hard at all. Just my 2 cents

Just curious, how are the wires ran through the bulkhead with the universal American Autowire kit? Where he's doing a resto mod/extra components, this might be a better way to go and do the headlight relay mod too.

 

[440roadrunner]

In my opinion "it depends." If you want a "restore correct" nearly stock car, and don't plan on a great big oversize alternator and a bunch of "stuff" like stereo, fans, pumps, etc, you should consider some sort of factory harness.

Please read this Mad article which even if you do not do this mod, points up the problems with these


http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

Ma knew this was inadequate, you can find documentation on optional 60? 65 a alternator wiring known as "fleet police taxi" wiring.

Otherwise, if it's a "resto mod" car I'd go aftermarket harness. I'm not even going to USE a bulkhead connector in my car-----made a plate same size as the original plug, snaps in with factory clips and the gasket, and a grommet in there for the wiring to pass through. No ammeter. And you are talking to a guy who LIKED ammeters.

ALL the aftermarket harnesses are "over priced" and over rated and UNDER documented---for Mopars. Most of them do not address the IGN2 "ignition bypass" circuit. Painless, EZ, Francis, all about a tossup. It irritates me that they expect you to use a GM connector on your TS switch, for example, but don't provide both "halves" which you need for anything BUT a GM

 

[Car Nut]

Please read this Mad article which even if you do not do this mod, points up the problems with these
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

Good read, thanks.

 

[747mopar]

Just curious, how are the wires ran through the bulkhead with the universal American Autowire kit? Where he's doing a resto mod/extra components, this might be a better way to go and do the headlight relay mod too.

Being universal it's all up to you, for me I wanted as few connections as possible (less chance for bad connections) and everything hidden out of sight. I used a large enough boot to fit the whole engine compartment wiring threw and put it directly behind the intake and routed the wires under the intake. All forward wiring for lights are in flexible conduit under the fender and the battery is in the trunk. With a universal kit there are no bulkheads or any other connections other than the necessary stuff to connect headlight switches, ignition switch, etc and most are GM style connectors which I took advantage of by eliminating all of the expensive Mopar switches in favor of over the counter available parts. Maybe not for everybody but this to me was the way to go.

- - - Updated - - -

I should mention another reason for going this route was I knew I'd be adding A/C, electric fan, stereo, electric seats, etc and I did install hallogen lights and relays which are awesome!

 

[jmopar20]

In my opinion "it depends." If you want a "restore correct" nearly stock car, and don't plan on a great big oversize alternator and a bunch of "stuff" like stereo, fans, pumps, etc, you should consider some sort of factory harness.

Please read this Mad article which even if you do not do this mod, points up the problems with these


http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

Ma knew this was inadequate, you can find documentation on optional 60? 65 a alternator wiring known as "fleet police taxi" wiring.

Otherwise, if it's a "resto mod" car I'd go aftermarket harness. I'm not even going to USE a bulkhead connector in my car-----made a plate same size as the original plug, snaps in with factory clips and the gasket, and a grommet in there for the wiring to pass through. No ammeter. And you are talking to a guy who LIKED ammeters.

ALL the aftermarket harnesses are "over priced" and over rated and UNDER documented---for Mopars. Most of them do not address the IGN2 "ignition bypass" circuit. Painless, EZ, Francis, all about a tossup. It irritates me that they expect you to use a GM connector on your TS switch, for example, but don't provide both "halves" which you need for anything BUT a GM

I've had that article pulled up in a tab, I'll read it today. Thanks for your input. I plan on installing electric fans as well as a decent sound system, and maybe some fog lights. After looking at the prices of aftermarket harnesses supposedly made for my car, and comparing the description and the pictures to universal kits from those same companies, it just didn't make sense to me that they would charge $300+ more for one over the other. Keep It Clean wiring has a harness for 68-74 Mopar B-Bodies, and it's $550, but they also have a universal kit with the same number of circuits and fuses for less than $200. Crazy

 

[HYRDGOON]

This is the kit that's in mine from EZ Wire 18 fuse - 21 circuit for $185 http://www.ezwiring.com/store/viewitem.php?productid=4

 

[jmopar20]

Being universal it's all up to you, for me I wanted as few connections as possible (less chance for bad connections) and everything hidden out of sight. I used a large enough boot to fit the whole engine compartment wiring threw and put it directly behind the intake and routed the wires under the intake. All forward wiring for lights are in flexible conduit under the fender and the battery is in the trunk. With a universal kit there are no bulkheads or any other connections other than the necessary stuff to connect headlight switches, ignition switch, etc and most are GM style connectors which I took advantage of by eliminating all of the expensive Mopar switches in favor of over the counter available parts. Maybe not for everybody but this to me was the way to go.

- - - Updated - - -

I should mention another reason for going this route was I knew I'd be adding A/C, electric fan, stereo, electric seats, etc and I did install hallogen lights and relays which are awesome!

I definitely plan on adding the electric fans and stereo, some extra lighting is a possibility too. Hiding as much of the wiring under the hood as possible is a must for me as well, I've wanted that clean look for as long as I've had the car. Do you have any pics of under your hood, and maybe some other places where you had to run wires or make connections in a way that weren't initially obvious? I appreciate your input, the route you've taken with your car is very similar to the ideas I have for mine

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This is the kit that's in mine from EZ Wire 18 fuse - 21 circuit for $185 http://www.ezwiring.com/store/viewitem.php?productid=4

I saw that kit while searching, did it seem to have everything with it that you needed? Was there anything in particular about it that made it more difficult than it should have been when you installed it?

 

[440roadrunner]

One thing I recommend you do, if you use a universal kit, and a "bitch" I have "in general" about them.

While the documentation varies, (you can download some of them and look) they non of them give you a "complete" wire by wire diagram. I recommend that before you start to install it, lay it out on a bench and do a wire-by-wire continuity check and build your own diagram. My car had "part of" a used Painless kit, and then when it was down for paint, I ran into an new / open box EZ kit. They use the same fuse panel!!!. But I was going to re-purose some of the wires, and actually re-worked some of the buss in the fuse panel.

One "bitch" I have is that it's "fine" to color and number the wires, but they insist on having alpa-labels such as "headlights" and "power windows." Well I don't HAVE power windows, and want to use that circuit for something else. This is irritating, to say the least.

 

[jmopar20]

One thing I recommend you do, if you use a universal kit, and a "bitch" I have "in general" about them.

While the documentation varies, (you can download some of them and look) they non of them give you a "complete" wire by wire diagram. I recommend that before you start to install it, lay it out on a bench and do a wire-by-wire continuity check and build your own diagram. My car had "part of" a used Painless kit, and then when it was down for paint, I ran into an new / open box EZ kit. They use the same fuse panel!!!. But I was going to re-purose some of the wires, and actually re-worked some of the buss in the fuse panel.

One "bitch" I have is that it's "fine" to color and number the wires, but they insist on having alpa-labels such as "headlights" and "power windows." Well I don't HAVE power windows, and want to use that circuit for something else. This is irritating, to say the least.

Thanks for the advice! When you laid it out ahead of time, did you refer to the old harness or even the diagram original to the car when considering your layout? Or did you not even think about that and plan it completely your way? It may make more sense to me once I've got it all laid out and I can visualize it a little better

 

[440roadrunner]

No I went my own way. Mine is not back together yet. I actually bought two Jeep fuse / relay panels from ebay tore them apart, and made one with more relays. This is going to be mounted up in the left corner of the kick panel, and the left vent has been replaced by a butterfly vent "valve" out of an old 'Stang.

 

[HT413]

This is a great thread. I've been planning on rewiring the whole car either this winter or next and I think you've answered all of my questions without my having to ask. Thanks and hey, happen to have any pictures?

 

[mopar vince]

I have used the Painless Mopar colored kit in several cars.
Although they all eventually came together okay I think it could have been named "painful" if they were being more truthful.
I liked the painless one because the wires are color coded using the mopar colors for the most part with the exception of the added circuits (electric fan / AC).
Make sure to get it done faster by taking your time.
Invest in some good shrink wrap and a soldering tool.
I also really liked the split braided wire tubing.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...kBEG_cWP1qYdODZD7yogP-jLBhsovFX0dgaAvvo8P8HAQ

Hope this helps.

 

[texas69bee]

All the extra stuff you guys do is hardly worth the extra$200.00 you are saving, with hopes of it working. No schematics, having to trace wires and there labeled different. Mad electrical modification for the amp meter doesn't take more than an hour.

 

[SlinktRR]

All the extra stuff you guys do is hardly worth the extra$200.00 you are saving, with hopes of it working. No schematics, having to trace wires and there labeled different. Mad electrical modification for the amp meter doesn't take more than an hour.

Good point. The benefit of the OEM setup from year1 is that you can still use all the factory diagrams and the color codes match. Downside...you still have all that current going through a single blade on the ignition circuit. No free lunch I suppose.

 

[440roadrunner]

All the extra stuff you guys do is hardly worth the extra$200.00 you are saving, with hopes of it working. No schematics, having to trace wires and there labeled different. Mad electrical modification for the amp meter doesn't take more than an hour.

My car is going to have (already did) EFI, electric pump of course, and aftermarket AC. And, the stereo is aftermarket, and I've decided to trunk mount the battery. So the factory harness is already "behind the curve" LOL.

I'm not promoting aftermarket for "everybody" and I DO agree with you on the "Mad" article. I post that link a LOT.

 

[747mopar]

I definitely plan on adding the electric fans and stereo, some extra lighting is a possibility too. Hiding as much of the wiring under the hood as possible is a must for me as well, I've wanted that clean look for as long as I've had the car. Do you have any pics of under your hood, and maybe some other places where you had to run wires or make connections in a way that weren't initially obvious? I appreciate your input, the route you've taken with your car is very similar to the ideas I have for mine

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I saw that kit while searching, did it seem to have everything with it that you needed? Was there anything in particular about it that made it more difficult than it should have been when you installed it?

I can do that, PM me if I forget because my memory sucks!