unswedge me

[Bob Jordan]

I bought the 5/16 hole saw that others have mentioned. It does NOT fit over the 1/2" stud and I deformed the threads on one stud and had to clean them up with a die. No big deal - I will try the 11/16. I'm just trying to get set up for eventually needing to remove the drums from the hub when we do need drums. These drums are at the limit.

 

[Dave P]

Any shop with a manual knee mill ( Bridgeport ) could clean those off with a boring head pretty
quick. Not having that option, then maybe the hole saw and a solid drill press. Personally I'd just look
for new studs grind/cut em off flush on the back side and press them out.
Grab a 1/2 in bolt and take it hole saw shopping, depending on packaging you might be able to test fit it

 

[Lefty71]

Oh no no no, swaged (or "swedged") wheel studs went on for longer than that.

How can this be?? I can only assume you don't mean swedged thru the drum?? If so, how could they get the axle out?, to service the brakes.....or build it in the first place...I get it with removable hubs like the tapered axle setup, but after that with semi-floating axles, I don't see it. Thx, Lefty71

 

[Dako]

Assuming you are referencing the front drums.

When I took apart my fronts on my '66 Belvedere II, I used a manual, hydraulic press... pressing out each swedged stud. It's best to use a sleeve under each stud, long enough to support the hub (so the drum itself is not supporting the weight) or you will push in on the drum center. They WILL press out (usually with a loud 'pop'). The swedged lip will likely 'peel off', but the studs are still usable. I re-used my RH threads and replaced the LH threads with RH.
To me it made sense...
-Less likely of someone else twisting one off because they're 'going the wrong way'.
-A lot easier to find a RH replacement should one need it.
- Same with lugnuts... easier to find RH.

Once all studs are pressed out, the hub can then be pressed out of the drum. Lots of break free...and some heat (of the drum face, not the hub!) helps. Don't be surprised to still see the center of the drum flex on this last step as well.

The good news is, once you have done this process the front drums are now removable without removing the hub!

 

[moparedtn]

How can this be?? I can only assume you don't mean swedged thru the drum?? If so, how could they get the axle out?, to service the brakes.....or build it in the first place...I get it with removable hubs like the tapered axle setup, but after that with semi-floating axles, I don't see it. Thx, Lefty71

Sorry, I was speaking specifically of the front drums Lefty.

 

[Lefty71]

Assuming you are referencing the front drums.

Ahh, I see....somehow I missed a few posts in the middle... I also thought we were talking rears...so, in the Mopar world, that did end in `64, and I'm guessing on the fronts, the prevalence to disks on the bigger cars by `71 ended that issue...

 

[440 PHIXX]

This is what I used. A diamond tipped 5/8” hole saw. It has a built in arbor. Not sure of the brand, my mind is going. But 5/8 was perfect. Lenox has on with the teeth, but you have to purchase the arbor to thread it into.

 

[440 PHIXX]

My ‘68 Satellite had them.

 

[Lefty71]

This is what I used. A

I think I just saw those at Lowes today...thought they were Lenox.

Not it??;

https://www.lowes.com/pd/LENOX-5-8-in-Diamond-Arbored-Hole-Saw/1003054060

 

[440 PHIXX]

I think I just saw those at Lowes today...thought they were Lenox

That’s where I got it. And I think you are right, it’s a Lenox. I went to Ace Hardware the other day and saw the one with teeth. That is what I was looking for but they only went down to 3/4” at my Lowes. The diamond one worked great but it took a little while and pressure. I used motor oil as lube coolant, and did both front hubs.

 

[Bob Jordan]

This is what I used. A diamond tipped 5/8” hole saw. It has a built in arbor. Not sure of the brand, my mind is going. But 5/8 was perfect. Lenox has on with the teeth, but you have to purchase the arbor to thread it into.View attachment 1321186View attachment 1321187

That 5/8 went right over the stud threads? I tried a 5/8 with teeth and no go over the threads.

 

[Big Bad Dad]

That 5/8 went right over the stud threads? I tried a 5/8 with teeth and no go over the threads.

The 5/8 should work on 7/16" studs like A Body cars. Our B Body cars have 1/2" studs. I used an 11/16" hole saw, and it worked perfect on my 64

Plymouth rear drums.

 

[66/440]

Anyone around Gregory MI that can help or tell me how to remove the hubs from the original drums on this 64 Fury? To be clear - I want to KEEP the studs in the hub - just remove the drum

Wheel stud swedge cutting tool

Just a FYI. The tool required for cutting the swedge on "A" body brake drums, is available from Goodson Tool. It is required to remove the swedge when removing the studs, to prevent ruinining the hub. Their part number is ST-437 for 7/16 studs, and ST-500 for 1/2 studs. These tools are on...

www.forabodiesonly.com

 

[440 PHIXX]

That 5/8 went right over the stud threads? I tried a 5/8 with teeth and no go over the threads.

Yes, it did. In the pic of the hub, you can see a removed stud. I wasn’t trying to save them though. I switched to RHT on the drivers side and put new on the passenger side. Dorman sells them 10 a pack. I did end up going with the .65 knurl, as the .625 was loose. I took the hubs in work and on the Bridgeport ran a 41/64” drill to open them up to .641, then ran a.645 reamer for a .005 press fit.

 

[440 PHIXX]

Here’s a 1/2 20 Dorman stud in the 5/8 Lenox diamond hole saw.

 

[Lefty71]

I think those Goodson tools are very long gone??

 

[66/440]

I think those Goodson tools are very long gone??

IDK, I purchased one in 2020, pricy but I have 5 or 6 cars/trucks that I knew I would eventually need one for. Have to say it works great. Might have gone with the diamond tipped hole saw but wonder about the actual amount of use I would get out of one. The one from Goodson is very well made, I have done three cars and it is still sharp.

 

[Big Bad Dad]

I bought a 5/8" hole saw before I got the 11/16" one. The 5/8 teeth would not fit down over the 1/2" threads. Looks like the diamond tip saw would though. But did it cut threads all the way down the stud before getting to the swages? This is one of my old studs after I used the 11/16'' saw. I was not worried about saving either the studs or the drum, as replaced them both on my rear axles.

 

[qkcuda]

I am converting to disc brakes which reuse the existing hubs, so am am not concerned about saving the drums, but I would like to save the studs. Which would work best, 11/16 hole saw or 5/8 or 11/16 diamond tipped saw?

 

[440 PHIXX]

This is what the stud looked like after the Lenox 5/8” diamond tip hole saw.

Ready to be tapped out. As you can see it didn’t mess up the drum or the stud. However I was replacing both.

Here’s the before shot.