Upgraded alternator not charging

[Whitehatspecial]

Hello I need some advice on a charging issue on my 1967 Dodge Coronet. I am using a serpentine belt setup that requires the use of a alternator from a 93-99 Dodge truck. I converted the car to electronic ignition as well using the conversion harness from Year One. The alternator, ballast resistor, voltage regulator and coil are new. Car runs excellent but does not charge. Has anyone used one of these alternators? There are 2 field connections and a power stud, The blue field wire is hot with ignition on, what should be going on with the green field wire? My understanding is that it does not matter if you switch the field wires. I am sure the harness is meant to be used with the factory alternator not the one I am using. Is there another wire I have to add to excite the alternator to get it to charge? Sorry about the lengthy post, any help or suggestions would be appreciated

 

[4406bbl]

If your 67 harness only has a blue wire, the other field would need to go to ground to complete the circuit.

 

[4406bbl]

I will add, if your harness has an electronic regulator the blue wire from alternator should be continuous to the batt side of the regulator, the green wire goes continuous to the field side of the regulator. If those check out, and it sounds like your blue does, unhook your regulator, jumper between the 2 wires and see if it charges, if it does the regulator is bad, or you have no ground to the regulator case, or the alt is isolated and needs a ground. Do not run it long that way, as in do not drive the car, as you are full outputting the alternator and it may burn up stock small wiring.

 

[Whitehatspecial]

If your 67 harness only has a blue wire, the other field would need to go to ground to complete the circuit.

the upgraded harness has a green and blue (field wires) and a black and a purple with a large eyelet for the postive

 

[Whitehatspecial]

I will add, if your harness has an electronic regulator the blue wire from alternator should be continuous to the batt side of the regulator, the green wire goes continuous to the field side of the regulator. If those check out, and it sounds like your blue does, unhook your regulator, jumper between the 2 wires and see if it charges, if it does the regulator is bad, or you have no ground to the regulator case, or the alt is isolated and needs a ground. Do not run it long that way, as in do not drive the car, as you are full outputting the alternator and it may burn up stock small wiring.

 

[Whitehatspecial]

I ran a separate ground from the alternator to the regulator and a ground from the alternator to the body. blue wire on ballast to alternator is hot with key on only but I don't have power on the green wire with the key on or off

 

[Whitehatspecial]

I will try the jumper and see what happens later today, thanks for advice

 

[4406bbl]

The green wire will not have power, the blue should have 12volts at the regulator, the regulator completes the green wire to regulate the voltage. Here is a 1970 dual field diagram.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

pre 70 cars gets one brush/field grounded via chassis, while regulator gets 12 volts from ign switch and once sensed regulates the voltage what it gets to the other brush/field on alt via the green wire. This system is usually known as "single field" alt

post 70 cars get both brushes/fields isolated from alt chassis because they get two wires... one positive from ign switch on the blue wire, the other negative from regulator via the green wire. Regulator gets 12 volts to ( blue wire ) from ign switch to sense and send the regulated negative source what it takes from chassis

On both cases, green wire is the regulated field... neg or pos depending on the setup/year

 

[MoparLeo]

Here is a better ignition diagram. Hope it helps.

 

[4406bbl]

This should help you trouble shoot your problems.