Vaccum Lines Help

[robw13]

Hello,

Trying to figure out what Vac Lines went to what and stumped. New rebuilt carb & fuel pump w/ in-filter and the car wont stay runnin at all. Need help with the lines mostly, can the car run on just 2 vac lines? Can I install a Manual Choke instead that Electric box? Pics might help.

 

[Badvert65]

Cap off any unused vacuum ports at the base of the carb. Those will just be a problem.
Other than that, hard to say as it could be just about anywhere. Only absolute, must have, vacuum lines would be for power brakes and for the distributor. Anything else is gravy.

 

[robw13]

vac line back of dizzy to carb and then the brake booster correct?

 

[sleepar]

The first thing is to decide is do you want to (or have to for state requirements) maintain the original year correct stuff or replace it all with a 4bbl and '68 non emissions set up... I would get a orange box and new coil and distributor to match an edelbrock Brock carb and intake.. the booster and pvc valve work better off the carb base and the distributor advance off the carb port for that and one port off the base for the vacuums switches for the heater controls...... you're fuel line looks kinked also.... replacing the system you have with tuneable parts will free up a lot of ponies
All those lines are toast and should be replaced or omited... an electric choke 4 bbl eliminates the air cleaner vacuum stuff too.... everything will be so mutch easier down the road with out all that original system....

 

[Sixpaksteve]

I was wondering about that fuel line too (3rd photo, the line going into the front/center of your carb). That appears to be kinked so badly that you might have to replace it, but I think I'd get that squared away first. That kink will definitely keep the motor from running....IMHO

 

[Badvert65]

power brakes is on the intake manifold. I forgot to mention a PCV valve, always a good idea, that can go to the base of the carb (in back?). The distributor port is a little more difficult to identify with your pictures. Ideally, you want 'ported vacuum' as the throttle opens, the vacuum increases. You can find one with a simple vacuum gauge or just check with your fingers. There is a saucer shaped metal can on the back of the carb (choke pull off) that will need to be connected to a solid vacuum source (base of carb) if it is not already connected.
That should just about cover all the "must haves" in vacuum connections.

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I was wondering about that fuel line too (3rd photo, the line going into the front/center of your carb). That appears to be kinked so badly that you might have to replace it, but I think I'd get that squared away first. That kink will definitely keep the motor from running....IMHO

Ouch...I didn't notice that. Definitely try to fix the fuel line kink.
Good eye.

 

[robw13]

Is there an easy way to fix the fuel line? Performance replacement or jusy buy another one and bend it to place? Also, Should I switch to a manual choke as well?

 

[Sixpaksteve]

Is there an easy way to fix the fuel line? Performance replacement or jusy buy another one and bend it to place? Also, Should I switch to a manual choke as well?

Looking at how kinked that fuel line is at the carb, I think that you have to replace it. I'm not sure what's available fuel-wise for your car, but hopefully somebody makes that line already bent the way you need it to be.

 

[robw13]

Anyone have diagram of where the vac lines should go?

 

[sleepar]

You can replace all that emissions junk or spend all you're free time fixing it.... I have been there and done that.... all the rubber lines after 10 years crack and leak.... if it all doesn't work together it doesn't work the lines are one thing then the diaphragm in all those stretch or split the sensors for the temp switches... plan on spending a lot of time and money on that lean burn system.... you have a new carb and I had one 2 for my 360 in a truck and eventually I ended up with a 4bbl and all that factory junk in a box.... if you must have the original parts on there pull the intake off and clean it out of all the carbon especially in the exaust cross over just that alone is worth a new intake... you will need to get a book on the diagrams because they changed depending on 48 or California low or high altitude year to year. I blew it up on a printer 150% to follow it easier.... there were parts I couldn't find like the vacuum amplifier and the plug.... if the engine isn't original to the car it's a real mess...

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Nobody has a 4bbl setup to sell you on here? Usually there's a couple of people tripping over each other to sell an old 4 bbl intake and then everything else... no 360 people around? Try the same question on for A Body's forum this is for 440's only over here plus the A body guys run newer cars like yours....

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Do you want to fix it to sell it quick? Or fix it for enjoyment?

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Is there an easy way to fix the fuel line? Performance replacement or jusy buy another one and bend it to place? Also, Should I switch to a manual choke as well?

Manual choke is a pain the choke you have probably slow to come off because of the carbon in the crossover....

 

[robw13]

ok cool, where do the vac lines on the air intake go to? just curious cuz there gone.. Fixing for enjoyment.

 

[sleepar]

Use you're old fuel line as a template and get the green 5/16 bendable steel line... put a little grease on the flared end so it doesn't freeze to itself like you're old one try to bend it an inch from the nut. Sometimes I use a piece of old rubber hose and vise grips to hold the line but the green stuff bends real nice

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Where anything goes is in a manual for that year or on a sticker on the hood hopefully covered in years of grease... maybe someone has a link to a pdf or can scan the manual for you. WD40 goes a long way in helping the diaphragm in the vacuum pots there's a thing on the air cleaner base that's always toast and the one on the snorkel is usually frozen and hard to find.