• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Valley pan leak on 440

rp23g7

Well-Known Member
Local time
2:40 AM
Joined
Jul 17, 2008
Messages
525
Reaction score
125
Location
Lynnwood, Wa
I have been chasing a slight oil leak since i picked up the car.

Seems to loose a quart every 150-200 miles or so.

It could be burning some, but i have a little drip once a day when i park the car.

I thought it may be the drain plug but i got under and wiped it off and let it sit for a day and it didnt reappear from sitting.

So, i wiped everything off under there, and under the intake manifold, and drove it for a week. I may have a slight rear main leak too, i thought it was the oil sender but i looked back there and nothing looks wet.

I looked last night and there is some oil collecting at the front of the valley pan, grrr, looks like i am going to be yanking off the manifold.

Do i need a inner and outer gasket for each side and a front and rear valley seal, who makes the best gasket kit for this these days.
 
Hmm, do i want one with a blocked off crossover if i drive it everyday?
 
Under normal circumstances you shouldn't need the paper gaskets. I never run them. If the intake and heads mate up properly there is no need.

And yes, I usually block the heat riser on mine. But you should tie the choke open, and expect some cold start issues.
 
I will check to see what was used before, if anything. I think my choke is tied open, i will have to look at it when its cold, never have taken the air cleaner off when it was cold before, DOH, never has issues on a cold start up.
 
They told us at school " only a fool runs old school" when it comes to mating surfaces...I'd use the gaskets,valley pans are notorious for vacuum leaks. That's why they came out with the new gasket kits.

Hey I don't mean any disrespect guy's just repeating what I was told. I hope no one has taken it to heart.
 
Last edited:
I've taken my manifold off a few times, and never used any gaskets, and no leaks... if you want you could use some Super Black gasket maker on the sides for a little insurance...IMHO :grin:
 
Well this "fool" goes "old school" all the time and have NEVER had a vacuum leak, or oil leak issues when just using the pan alone.

Only fools rely on thick gaskets to make up for shoddy machine work
 
Had my 383 intake off a few times cause of gasket leaks. I had used the 4 gaskets with the kit, no luck. Then tried the fel-pro m900? whatever pan only, with just using Permatex Hylomar sealant [recommended by someone here I think] on the pan, and RTV on the ends. Problems solved.
 
I do not use the gaskets.I have before and sometimes they are more trouble than they are worth.I put the valley pan on with a small bead of RTV and a bigger bead at all four corners and have never had any trouble.The factory never used gaskets just the valley pan.As long as everthing is flat tou should not need gaskets..
 
We were told to use gaskets because the tolerances/machining weren't the greatest back in the day,the gaskets are just some extra insurance.I've never had a problem since I started using them.
 
lol this is great. i looked at it when i got home. Looks like the leak is at one of the corners of the pan.

I took of the front rail and cleaned everything good, didnt look like there was any gasket sealing the front, siliconed it up and put the rail back on, i will check it later, after a drive and see what it looks like.
 
I was curious if you ever found the source of your oil consumption. I have exactly the same issue.

Thanks
 
Under normal circumstances you shouldn't need the paper gaskets. I never run them. If the intake and heads mate up properly there is no need.

And yes, I usually block the heat riser on mine. But you should tie the choke open, and expect some cold start issues.
If you run a vacuum operated choke and it's set up right, I don't see any reason not to run it with the heat riser blocked. I've done it both ways and like having the choke better and I live in a warm climate but it does get cold here at times.

They told us at school " only a fool runs old school" when it comes to mating surfaces...I'd use the gaskets,valley pans are notorious for vacuum leaks. That's why they came out with the new gasket kits.

Hey I don't mean any disrespect guy's just repeating what I was told. I hope no one has taken it to heart.
Maybe you should change schools? Yeah, tolerances were wide back in the day but the mating surfaces were good and at the same angles but sometimes the intake did sit a bit high or a bit low and the ports would end up with a slight step but it wasn't a common thing. I've done it both ways too but never had a problem with either way. I won't double gasket if I don't have to tho.

I do not use the gaskets.I have before and sometimes they are more trouble than they are worth.I put the valley pan on with a small bead of RTV and a bigger bead at all four corners and have never had any trouble.The factory never used gaskets just the valley pan.As long as everthing is flat tou should not need gaskets..
I agree with this
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top