Meep-Meep
дворянин
If the rim was the issue then great, otherwise I was going to suggest you look at the drive line angle. On several occasions I had shimmed the tranny mount to change the drive shaft angle and the problem was solved.
Vibrations when driving
- Thread starter 65coronet440
- Start date
65coronet440
Well-Known Member
I take it you are refering to a suspension component?!?!?
bluefury
Well-Known Member
vibration....
Sometimes just rotating, (indexing) the driveshaft 180 degrees will effect balance.
Rule of thumb about driveshaft length. With the rear u-joint disconnected there should be 1/2"min to 1" max in/out travel at the slip yoke.
good luck.
it doesn't start vibrating immediately, i have done the park+throttle test and its good, it is also a new torque converter.... it usually starts around 30-35mph
You might check the drive shaft length. To short and the slip yoke will not be far enough into the tail shaft bushing. Also, the tailshaft bushing itself may be worn. Sometimes just rotating, (indexing) the driveshaft 180 degrees will effect balance.
Rule of thumb about driveshaft length. With the rear u-joint disconnected there should be 1/2"min to 1" max in/out travel at the slip yoke.
good luck.
65coronet440
Well-Known Member
So i took the rim in and it was a bent rim, very bad, not be cause the rim is bad, but because the rim was apparently a special ordered custom rim that would need to be "built" and would take 8-10 weeks.... so i got the next best thing, some weld prostars and they will be here tomorrow....:headbang:
bluefury
Well-Known Member
Rim......
So i took the rim in and it was a bent rim, very bad, not be cause the rim is bad, but because the rim was apparently a special ordered custom rim that would need to be "built" and would take 8-10 weeks.... so i got the next best thing, some weld prostars and they will be here tomorrow....:headbang:
So i took the rim in and it was a bent rim, very bad, not be cause the rim is bad, but because the rim was apparently a special ordered custom rim that would need to be "built" and would take 8-10 weeks.... so i got the next best thing, some weld prostars and they will be here tomorrow....:headbang:
Ya gotta love those easy fix's......:
65coronet440
Well-Known Member
Well........................ i got the 2 new rims installed and unfortunately......did not fix the problem, so now im starting to get irritated. 450.00 spent, and still the same problem... however a portion of the vibration did go away.. the constant vibration is gone but i still have the rythmic, pulsing vibration. i can feel it more in my gas pedal than before and extremely noticable on de-acceleration.... maybe a combination of many things here...
so what now? driveshaft? what should i check, and how can i tell if it is the driveshaft?
so what now? driveshaft? what should i check, and how can i tell if it is the driveshaft?
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rlsbee
Well-Known Member
It's possible that one of the tires has a broken belt. Guys that I know with shops, tell me it happens pretty often. I had it happen on my Ram pickup. It would vibrate severely at different times and almost not noticeable at others. Jack up the tire until you can spin it freely. Hold your hand loosely against the tread and spin the tire to see if you can feel a bump. Vary your hand presuure a little and spin it several times. If you do feel a bump it's probably a broken belt in the tire. Just an idea for ya.
bluefury
Well-Known Member
slip yoke.....
extremely noticable on de-acceleration....
so what now? driveshaft? what should i check, and how can i tell if it is the driveshaft?
The exact symptoms I experienced turned out to be the bushing in the trans tail shaft which was worn and damaged by a drive shaft that was too short.
extremely noticable on de-acceleration....
so what now? driveshaft? what should i check, and how can i tell if it is the driveshaft?
The exact symptoms I experienced turned out to be the bushing in the trans tail shaft which was worn and damaged by a drive shaft that was too short.
moparman400
Well-Known Member
I read you replaced the converter ,You could try checking for loose converter flex plate bolts. Also a cracked stock flex plate will give you hell........not fun when they come apart.
HitIt
Well-Known Member
Hey Bluefury - was that a manual or auto trans? Thanks.
Dodge 330
Well-Known Member
Throw a couple of hoseclamps on the driveshaft, move them around where the weight is at different spots and see if anything changes.
Cheap and easy way to figure out if it's driveshaft balance.
Cheap and easy way to figure out if it's driveshaft balance.
shag766
Well-Known Member
my guess if it is more noticeable on de-acceleration then it is a bearing or possible u-joint getting wore. check the in-put shaft on the rear end for slop and the tail stock of the tranny for slop. put a driver in the joints and give a twist also. it don't take much to be a pain in the *** to find. i had this happen on one of my big trucks years ago and it was the in-put shaft bearing on the front rear.
65coronet440
Well-Known Member
Update:
So i got the rear tires balanced and the were off-balanced. so i figured that wouldn't be the vibration and i was right. but still needed to be done.. i ended up taking the car to a old gear head that gave me a few pointers to check. so one of the was to jack the car up on the lower control arm and not the frame and do the side to side and the up and down shake. the passanger side had very minimal play in it so i ruled that out, the drivers side had about a inch of play side to side! so i had my wife get some gloves on and do the side to side shake as i inspected the suspension...WOW was it all moving.. the upr and lwr balljoints were moving, the lower control arm was moving the tierod end was moving... so now im debating just replacing everything. i wanted to do i disc brake swap, but there is now point doing that after the balljoints because ill just have to pop them out again. so im bummed, this is going to set me back 1000 bucks.
So i got the rear tires balanced and the were off-balanced. so i figured that wouldn't be the vibration and i was right. but still needed to be done.. i ended up taking the car to a old gear head that gave me a few pointers to check. so one of the was to jack the car up on the lower control arm and not the frame and do the side to side and the up and down shake. the passanger side had very minimal play in it so i ruled that out, the drivers side had about a inch of play side to side! so i had my wife get some gloves on and do the side to side shake as i inspected the suspension...WOW was it all moving.. the upr and lwr balljoints were moving, the lower control arm was moving the tierod end was moving... so now im debating just replacing everything. i wanted to do i disc brake swap, but there is now point doing that after the balljoints because ill just have to pop them out again. so im bummed, this is going to set me back 1000 bucks.
daredevil
Well-Known Member
If you can do the work its only about 300.One thing that bothers me is you said that you broke the drive shaft when this started. I have read several places that such shocks to the trans can damage the overrunning sprag. If this happens parts come thru the floor when it gives up. May be worth checking in to for your safety.
65coronet440
Well-Known Member
From what i gathered was that the driveshaft broke in half and damanged the tailshaft of the trans, which had to be replaced. but i will definitely look into that.
uk-maxie
Well-Known Member
We've got similar problems with our 63, so have followed this thread with interest.
We've already had the driveshaft & wheels balanced so are looking at other areas the vibration could be coming from.
I suspect the next area to check for us is the pinion angle. We had to shim our engine up a few millimetres (3 or 4?) cos the Moroso deep sump was too close to the drag link. I'm not sure if this small change is enough to cause vibration on its own but the angle that the axle was installed years ago by the previous owner may not be correct anyway.
So with that in mind i started looking round for a copy of a diagram I saw years ago, showing the ideal pinion angle in relation to the transmission, and came across this...
http://jniolon.clubfte.com/drivelinephasing/drivelinephasing.html
Yes it refers mainly to off-road/4x4 type vehicles but I'm sure that diagram is the one I've seen before (see below)
This says the ideal angle should be 0°, (or 180, depending how you add it up!).
Sure, you can have a few degrees between the tailshaft and the front end of the driveshaft (tho it doesnt say how many), and the same between the back end of the driveshaft and the pinion, but the tailshaft & the pinion must be parallel (but offset) to eliminate vibration. According to that link anyway.
Wedgie, could it be that your 3° is the angle between the pinion & the driveshaft rather than the pinion and the crankshaft? :icon_scratch:
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uk-maxie
Well-Known Member
Think we might be getting somewhere...
I just read elsewhere that the tailshaft & pinion should be parallel, but that's under driving conditions.
To achieve this, you need to set the pinion so it's facing downwards in relation to the tailshaft by 2 or 3 degrees, then, once youre on the move and the rear springs have wound up a little from the torque, it will put the pinion & tailshaft parallel as shown in the diagram above.
Does that make more sense? :eusa_eh:
I just read elsewhere that the tailshaft & pinion should be parallel, but that's under driving conditions.
To achieve this, you need to set the pinion so it's facing downwards in relation to the tailshaft by 2 or 3 degrees, then, once youre on the move and the rear springs have wound up a little from the torque, it will put the pinion & tailshaft parallel as shown in the diagram above.
Does that make more sense? :eusa_eh:
Meep-Meep
дворянин
As I understand it the drive line can only tolerate misalignment in one direction. The above "correct" drawing assumes you have no misalignment as viewed from the rear. If you have misalignment in two planes then the weld yokes will need to be out of phase. Early Camaros and Firebirds have exactly that situation where the rear end yoke is up and over as compared to the tranny yoke so an in phase shaft won't work. I found all this out when I had a 68 Firebird drive shaft in a 69 RR with a Dana 60. By pure luck (or not) the length happens to be the same as a B body / Dana 60 combo and uses the 7290 U joints.
I helped a buddy install a 9" Ford rear end in a 50's Chevy truck and the pinion on the 9" was offset to one side relative to the tail shaft as viewed from the rear. The tail shaft was pointing down and drew a straight line to the pinion CL as in the "wrong" diagram. I was going to nose the pinion down, but remembering my prior experience, I decided to leave it pointing to the tail shaft and let the side to side misalignment take care of the "correct" drive line angle. It was the example of the "correct" drawing but turned 90 deg. The end result, as reported by the truck owner, was a smooth ride at highway speeds. I suppose there may have been an issue if the truck was loaded down enough to put that other component in the yoke alignment but the springs were pretty beefy so it didn't move much. The correct way to do the swap would have been to make the pinion in line as viewed from the rear and make the misalignment in the vertical plane. Hope this shades some more light on the situation.
I helped a buddy install a 9" Ford rear end in a 50's Chevy truck and the pinion on the 9" was offset to one side relative to the tail shaft as viewed from the rear. The tail shaft was pointing down and drew a straight line to the pinion CL as in the "wrong" diagram. I was going to nose the pinion down, but remembering my prior experience, I decided to leave it pointing to the tail shaft and let the side to side misalignment take care of the "correct" drive line angle. It was the example of the "correct" drawing but turned 90 deg. The end result, as reported by the truck owner, was a smooth ride at highway speeds. I suppose there may have been an issue if the truck was loaded down enough to put that other component in the yoke alignment but the springs were pretty beefy so it didn't move much. The correct way to do the swap would have been to make the pinion in line as viewed from the rear and make the misalignment in the vertical plane. Hope this shades some more light on the situation.
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