Volt gauge conversion?

[astjp2]

Has anyone done the amp meter to volt gauge converstion on a 68 Ralley Dash? Thanks Tim

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

Guess not, I have thought about. I have a non rally and have not seen a non stock volt gauge. Have you found anything out yet?

 

[moparmarks]

Check with Real Time-Dash Worx
www.dash-worx.com
or these guys.
http://www.instrument-specialties.com/services/gauges-clusters/
I know someone is doing them. Just can't remember who.

 

[moperformance]

Order a current meter with shunt from a surplus electrical supply (MPJ). be sure the sweep (meter movement) is the same as as close as you can get to the original.( If not the faceplate will have to be changed to match the meter movement).
The "shunt" is a power resistor that will show a voltage drop when a current is passed through it like a current meter. This small voltage will supply a current which in turn will drive the low power meter to the same position as a stock current meter. This is a lot safer as the shunt is able to pass a lot of current with out harm plus it won't self destruct and leave you stranded in the middle of now where.
Taking the old meter out and replacing it with the replacement one sounds a lot harder then it really is But I would put it on a replacement module and be sure it works before tackling yours if your not sure of your skill/comfort level.

 

[astjp2]

All I found is this. I sent them an email and never heard back. Not much for customer service I guess.
http://www.tachman.com/mopar.htm

 

[Propwash]

I'm actually in the middle of converting the ammeter to a volt meter on my 69 roadrunner. I bought a Sunpro 2" voltmeter, pulled the guts of the voltmeter and old ammeter out, modified the very bottom of the faceplate to accomodate the new gauge (unseen when assembled), and am in the middle of putting it all back together...I'll post up some pic's and description when I get it wrapped up tonight.

 

['69Net]

I know these amp gauges fail...but why so critical to swap them? would it not work the same if all Your components are in good condition?

 

[moperformance]

I know these amp gauges fail...but why so critical to swap them? would it not work the same if all Your components are in good condition?

Over time the constant heat/cold cycling and moisture degrade components considerably. After 40 years (give or take) the best thing that can happen is that the current meter opens up and every and I mean everything quits. The worse thing is your car melts to the ground after an electrical fire gets everything started. That's why the smell of burnt wiring will stop any in their tracks if they know whats coming next!

 

[Propwash]

Bill's definitely right...Also, folks start slapping on higher amp altenators, electric fans, electric water pumps, bumping stereo's and other electronic gadget's and your old ammeter wiring and gauge start to become a ticking time bomb...

 

['69Net]

We have the same issue with a similar amp gauge on Australian Chryslers and We talk of changing to Volts gauges as well...but I would have thought a system in good condition should do it's job?

 

[Propwash]

Here you go.....Posted it over at my reso thread.




So I said I would post on the ammeter to Voltmeter conversion, so here they are....

Just to recap just a bit, I'm going this route because I'm going to a powermaster 140 one wire alternator as well as I don't want to sit and worry about this car going up in smoke


First off a couple pieces of the old ammeter....Pretty nuts isn't it?? This car had a 50 amp alternator when I pulled it out (nothing special), and who knows how close this came to lighting the dash up in flames.

Check out the heat affected zone on this....Obviously this metal got pretty hot!

Got a little a head of myself before pulling out the camera, but this is the Sunpro 2" Voltmeter (P/N CP8205), with it's guts ripped. To pull out the old meter, take off the two pal nuts for the fuel gauge (face plate overlaps the face plate for the ammeter), then take off the nuts for the ammeter..walla!
you'll need to drill out two very small rivets to seperate the factory faceplate from the ammeter.

The center to center holes n the back of the cluster assembly are further apart than the sunpro studs, but the voltmeters studs are smaller so they slide right down in the holes..

Being the studs of the volmeter ride real close to the inside of the cluster housing holes, I covered a good chunk of the studs with heat shrink as well as liquid electrical tape on the transition just to make sure there is no chance it can arc to the housing

I cut the original shorter needle off the sunpro at its base, cut the old one of the factory ammeter and used some JB Kwik Weld to secure in place on the new meter.
I also had to trim down a little finger on the plastic meter housing about an 1/8" of an inch which is used to hold the original sunpro face plate from sitting on the electrical wiring/solder on the unit. Makes the mopar faceplate stick out a bit too far.

I had to do some trimming on the original faceplate with a dremel to fit the meter in correctly. One this meter is secured from the backside, it doesn't budge so I didn't secure in any other manner from the inside. Also the face place is overlaped by the fuel gauge faceplate, so that hold it in place as well.

Here's how she looks with the cluster lense installed...You cannot notice any kind of modifications from the outside..The need can be adjusted for a different starting point by just turning a little cam on the backside of the magnet on the guage. The needle right now sits a bit higher than the other bottomed out gauges. Not really that noticable at all.

This is at 12.75 volts...Like I mentioned you can adjust the needle starting point on the voltmeter... I set mine up to read like this being the powermaster puts out a regulated 13.2 volts and that should center the needle in the gauge. Also being the studs are a bit undersized for the holes, you can twist the unit one way or another when loosing it up from the backside and tweek the needle to meet center if need be

Here's the back...The heat shrink runs right up to the top of the nut. It also slides through the through wall grommets in the bracket, thus no arc's. The bracket came with the voltmeter for securing the gauge in a housing, I just cut off the ends. I'll probably dabble on some liquid electical tape on the bracket around the washers as well. Like mentioned, the through wall grommets work great for protecting a short.. I'll run another nut on top and a star washer to secure the wires.

A good idea to do on the backside is write on a + and -, being the positive is opposite what the factory has stamped on the back of the case. I also indicated the change over seeing you never know if the car may fall in someone eles hands someday.. I will take the two original wires that use to run to the ammeter, solder them together and heat shrink over. I also plan on drilling out the male/female connection in the bulhead for the wire coming in, run the wire straight through, solder together and heat shrink install a inline fuse.

So there it is.......If you were thinking about spending the $150-$200 after shipping with Redline (nothing against them), here's another option where you'll spend about $17 bucks on the voltmeter and maybe an hour or two depending on your skill level. I know for me this really gives me a good piece of mind I don't have to worry about any issues in that area any more. Hope it helps some one out someday....

 

['69Net]

prop!!!!!!!!! You the skill Man......

 

[Propwash]

It's really not that hard at all '69net....If you end up trying it yourself, you'll see it's actually fairly easy to do. Just kind of a little nerve bending modifying the factory stuff..

 

[moperformance]

Excellent How to article!:hello2:

 

[Propwash]

Thanks Bill.........Like I said, hope it helps someone else out someday.