Voltage limiter regulator for gauges ?

[pearljam724]

Can someone accurately answer the job of the voltage limiter regulator ? Yeah ok, it limits voltage, lol ! But, what’s is accurately it’s purpose, what parts on the gauges does it protect and when this part is bad. What typically happens ? Bulbs always burn out ? Would this part effect turn signals not working properly ?

 

[Darter6]

The only thing it does is lower the voltage to 5V for the gauges sweep such as the coolant and gas gauge.Does not effect the bulbs or turn signals. When they go bad the gas and coolant gauge will go to the max and fry the gauge most of the time.Companies such as Redline gauge works sell solid state replacements.

 

[JimCoronette]

Can someone accurately answer the job of the voltage limiter regulator ? Yeah ok, it limits voltage, lol ! But, what’s is accurately it’s purpose, what parts on the gauges does it protect and when this part is bad. What typically happens ? Bulbs always burn out ? Would this part effect turn signals not working properly ?

Purpose: Convert 12 volts to 5 volts by opening and closing a set of contacts so that the average output is 5 volts that is used for the temperature, gas, and oil pressure gauges.

It's not a protection device like a fuse or breaker, it's a voltage reducer.

When the contacts stick closed, 12 volts are applied across the gauges and they fully deflect.

It does not affect the bulbs or turn signals which both use 12 volts.

 

[pearljam724]

Thank you, nice descriptive answer. Can you explain why turn signals work diagonally across a car and diagonally they don’t. Emergency flashers work, marker lights work in those same signals. The turn signals and switch is brand new. They worked fine at one point, now they don’t. I checked bulbs and tested them. I also grounded turn signal housing with a jumper cable to check that. I’ve switched both flashers and they make a clicking sound. The column ground is there too. I also cleaned fuse block terminals.

 

[JimKueneman]

Actually those answers are partially right. The gauges actually require 12V to warm up and operate quickly as designed. The mechanical regulator switched between off and 12V very slowly (compared to modern electronics). A modern 5V regulator does not do quite what the original mechanical did. There is a company that make a true electronic representation of how the old mechanical systems worked.

https://www.rt-eng.com/index.php/RTE_limiter.html

 

[69hemibeep]

RTE is where I get them and they work great. I do have two from Red line and my gas and temp ran lower in two cars. Maybe I didn't allow the gauges to warm up.

 

[6-david-5]

Thank you, nice descriptive answer. Can you explain why turn signals work diagonally across a car and diagonally they don’t. Emergency flashers work, marker lights work in those same signals. The turn signals and switch is brand new. They worked fine at one point, now they don’t. I checked bulbs and tested them. I also grounded turn signal housing with a jumper cable to check that. I’ve switched both flashers and they make a clicking sound. The column ground is there too. I also cleaned fuse block terminals.

pj724

What is sticking out at me here is "The turn signals & switch is brand new." Did you just replace the turn signal switch asm. recently??? If so, was it NOS? A reproduction (from whom)? If this were happening to my car, I would remove the steering wheel & inspect the installation & integrity of the switch asm. If the contacts inside the unit became misaligned or have failed in some way (or even in contact with something else that shouldn't be there), then that would be something I would want to settle in my mind.

I hope to read your post about how you fixed the problem soon!

 

[pearljam724]

It’s not the switch, the problem occurred with the old one too. Having no other choice to replace it. Because it was the last thing I hadn’t tried.

 

[JimKueneman]

It’s not the switch, the problem occurred with the old one too. Having no other choice to replace it. Because it was the last thing I hadn’t tried.

I am not really following what the symptoms are with your issue.

 

[pearljam724]

I am not really following what the symptoms are with your issue.

The turn signals work diagonally on the car, diagonally they don’t. Right front and left rear works.

 

[Darter6]

I understand now. You have right front but no right rear,you have left rear but no left front.
Do they light RF/LR when you turn the right signal on ? or only the RF with the switch in the right ?

 

[pearljam724]

Second part you mentioned. Only right front when turn signal switch is on for right. Only left rear when switch is turned on for the left.

 

[RJRENTON]

Gentlemen,
As mentioned previously, this regulator has NOTHING to do with the panel lights or turn signal lamps.
My opinion of the instrument voltage regulator: In simple terms its a percent cycle timer. Its internal contacts open and close to produce a "constant" voltage relative to the percentage the of time its contacts are closed. In this case, the percentage rate (based on output/input voltages) is 5/12. With 12 volts (relative) to the regulator input, the resultant output is 5 volts (nominal). This is achieved by the time cycle when it is calibrated during manufacture. Nowadays, with the advent of zener diodes, manufactured to provide exactly 5 volts with no moving parts. The only thing of importance is the diode must be capable of dissipating the heat generated during its operation. REAL TIME ENGINEERING makes an exact replacement regulator at a nomimal price. They also make and sell replacement tach boards for the Mopar Tic-Toc-Tach also available at a nomimal price. Google Real Time Engineering for additional information. I've used both items. Since the components are not visable once installed....whose to know they are not "original". Just my opinion of course.
Bob Renton

 

[Tool_man]

Purpose: Convert 12 volts to 5 volts by opening and closing a set of contacts so that the average output is 5 volts that is used for the temperature, gas, and oil pressure gauges.

It's not a protection device like a fuse or breaker, it's a voltage reducer.

When the contacts stick closed, 12 volts are applied across the gauges and they fully deflect.

It does not affect the bulbs or turn signals which both use 12 volts.

Hoping you’re still out there… I screwed up and applied 12 V to the 5 V side of the voltage reducer. That burned-up the voltage reducer. I replaced it. The gauges still don’t work as they did before I made the mistake. Is it likely that I ruined the gauges and/or the senders?

 

[JimCoronette]

Hoping you’re still out there… I screwed up and applied 12 V to the 5 V side of the voltage reducer. That burned-up the voltage reducer. I replaced it. The gauges still don’t work as they did before I made the mistake. Is it likely that I ruined the gauges and/or the senders?

Senders? no.
Gages? possibly.

When my limiter stuck closed it cooked the gages and they pegged all the way to the left.

Do your gages read anything?