Voltage Regulator for '68 Plymouth Satellite

[Onecarnut]

Hi guys, I recently purchased a new upgraded 90amp alternator from Summit to replace my stock 60amp unit. I am confused on how much the standard voltage regulator can handle. I found some stock VR's on eBay but it specifically states NOT to use with an alternator putting out more than 60amps. So, now I am on the hunt to find a VR that is capable of handling the additional amperage. I've looked and looked but they all say they are for 60amp alternators. Any suggestions you have will be greatly appreciated! Thanks

This is the style I have now

 

[badlite]

If I were you I would just change over to electronic regulator. They are much more reliable and will work with larger alternators.

 

[Mogre]

What he said ^^ And they look like originals!

 

[Onecarnut]

I saw those and it looks like my only option. I guess I need to do some homework on the wiring to make sure I dont screw it up. Thanks!

 

[RJRENTON]

The voltage regulator has nothing to do with the amperage capacity of the alternator. The vr controls the altetnators field voltage and in turn the output voltage of the system. Which one to use??? Depends on the alternator, original, the isolated field unit (2 brushes). PM if you want to purse this further....I can help.
Cheers,
RJ Renton

 

[440roadrunner]

Ok, time for clarity......

"Change to electronic regulator." I'm sure you meant "Change to 70 and later" but the fact is WHAT IS PICTURED is already electronic, it is in fact a modern day replacement for the mechanical, but it IS electronic

"VR has nothing to do with alternator." Well kind of but not exactly. SOME alternators DRAW MORE FIELD CURRENT.

You can easily "rig" your new 90 A up with a battery, clip leads, and your multimeter and check the field draw. Simply hook one field terminal to the battery, then through the multimeter in "current" and then the other field terminal back to the battery. If it does not draw more than about 4-5 amps, your present regulator is probably just fine.

Even the old "heavy duty" Mopar alternators specified a heavy duty regulator........

Remember these?

So, what do you do?

Post a link to the part no you bought, so we can see what it "is." It is likely an "isolated field" often wrongly called "dual field." That is, two field terminals. If so, you can add one wire and convert to the 70 / later VR. Buy a good brand. Even an original Mopar from a junk yard is probably better than the "current crop."

Somebody, "I forget who" was advertising VRs that can handle more field current

Here we go. These guys "are claiming" their unit handles up to 10A of field current

http://store.alternatorparts.com/partnoc8313.aspx

Your new alternator MUST have two field terminals, this is essentially for 70/ later units

 

[Yatzee]

I've come across this situation on many posts on many forums. Do you need the car in concourse condition? Do you open the hood to the public when parked? Do you drive the car a lot say like a daily driver? Do you need to impress people at cruise nights by it's authenticity? If you answer "no" to most of these questions then throw that old atiquated crap away and step into the "now". There are so many options out there for reliable, easy to wire, internally regulated alternators I can't understand why some people get caught in the yester-years. Repair by parts substitution is a costly venture and when people like Powermaster etc. make high output alternators that resemble the originals to a "T" with internal regulation, why not? There's even a company that makes, what looks exactly like an outboard regulator, except it's an empty box and serves only as a junction. Welcome to the future or just keep dealing with yesterdays issues again and again.

 

[A383Wing]

use this one if you are still running a single field alternator

http://www.4secondsflat.com/regulator_tech.html

 

[Onecarnut]

This is what I bought

I bought this alternator and this VR. Does anyone think these will not work?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWM-7018

 

[440roadrunner]

I bought this alternator and this VR. Does anyone think these will not work?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWM-7018

I don't have time to read all that nonsense

1....Does it have one or two field connections? The VR you bought is for a 70/ later with "isolated field" so you must have two field connections. Your old system had one brush grounded

2...That is a 'round back' design, and unless "Powermaster" has somehow improved on them, those are considered an inferior design to the newer "square back" units, because they output less amperage at lower RPM

What to do?

If the new alternator is only single field connection.........

"Rig" the new alternator and measure field current draw. If it's less than 4A or so, use your old regulator

if the new alternator is indeed isolated field (2 field terminals) then use the new VR. you will have to add one more wire, from "ignition run" to the second field terminal of the alternator.

You will also have to run down a connector for the new VR

 

[ODZKing]

Here is the electronic one I purchased for my 67 ... works great.
http://www.4secondsflat.com/regulator_tech.html

 

[Onecarnut]

This is a picture of the back of the new alternator and it does have two field connectors. I will go with your advice and run a second wire from ign run to the second field terminator. I cant thank you and all the people on this forum enough for all the great info!

I don't have time to read all that nonsense

1....Does it have one or two field connections? The VR you bought is for a 70/ later with "isolated field" so you must have two field connections. Your old system had one brush grounded

2...That is a 'round back' design, and unless "Powermaster" has somehow improved on them, those are considered an inferior design to the newer "square back" units, because they output less amperage at lower RPM

What to do?

If the new alternator is only single field connection.........

"Rig" the new alternator and measure field current draw. If it's less than 4A or so, use your old regulator

if the new alternator is indeed isolated field (2 field terminals) then use the new VR. you will have to add one more wire, from "ignition run" to the second field terminal of the alternator.

You will also have to run down a connector for the new VR

- - - Updated - - -

Here is the electronic one I purchased for my 67 ... works great.
http://www.4secondsflat.com/regulator_tech.html

What amp size alternator are you running?

 

[69a100]

There's a lot more buried on this site, but for starters. http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Electrical/charging.htm

 

[440roadrunner]

This is a picture of the back of the new alternator and it does have two field connectors. I will go with your advice and run a second wire from ign run to the second field terminator. I cant thank you and all the people on this forum enough for all the great info!

Yes if you wire that up with the 70 / later style VR, it should work fine.

 

[ODZKing]

What amp size alternator are you running?

That was a while ago. I want to say 60 amp. Any more and I think you'll start frying wires.

 

[Onecarnut]

After reading and talking to other owners at local car shows, I've decided to abort the alternator upgrade. I do not want to risk burning up wires etc. Thanks again for all the help!