voltage regulator

[Bee383]

69 bee 383 elec ign.is it ok to run a newer style vr (autozone vr706) with an otherwise stock set up?got a little lifght dimming at low idle.curious if it would make a difference.

 

[Pops1967GTX]

check at bulk head connector at firewall known to be a problem, also check engine ground...check Alternator.clean connections at headlights....

http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical.html


http://www.mymopar.com/dimlights.htm

 

[67 coronet]

switching to a solid state volt reg is always a good idea.much more stable then the old mechanical ones.try it and see if it solves your problem.if not,then truble shoot as stated above.

 

[440roadrunner]

If the lights are not cycling bright/ dim, but rather just drag down as the engine RPM drops, it is likely you older alternator. You can put a later model "squareback" on the car which has improved low RPM performance. These have two field connections, known as "isolated field" INcorrectly called "dual field". All you need to do in order to use your 69/ earlier regulator is to ground either field connection, and hook your original green to the remaining field terminal

Square back:

Please do NOT buy this cheapo crap regulator at Autozone, nor "Wells." There are only TWO (three) decent regulators for the 69/ earlier systems. They are the Standard Motor Products (Bluestreak) VR-218 , and NAPA/ Echlin VR-1001, and maybe the blue "race" piece from Mopar Performance

IF you put a later squareback on the car, you can later ADD on more wire and go to the 70/ later regulator, but either of the above regulators is just as good

Bulkhead connector / voltage drop problems are a real problem with these cars. Converting to headlight relays helps a lot, as well as going through and either repairing or modifying the bulkhead connector to fix problems

Please read this MAD article, even if you are not planning on bypassing the ammeter, this talks about many of the problems here

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

 

[Bee383]

thanks roadrunner.i already have the cheap autozone alt - think that might be part of my problem.i do plan on bypassing the ammeter when i get time.guess i need to start with a better alternator.david

 

[67 coronet]

normally a good idea to stay away from nonname brand electronics.azone has notoriusly bad electronics.wells and standard are not great either.go with borg warner or napa quality.paying a bit more up front can save a lot of hassel later on.

 

[440roadrunner]

Actually Standard used to be THE "standard", especially "Blue Streak." Now they ARE part of Echlin. And I don't agree on Borg Warner, either, much of their stuff is chineso. I guess the point is "ya just can't get good ......" anymore LOL

 

[Meep-Meep]

The MoPar race regulator is not recommended for street driving. Your best bet is to go with the dual field (isolated field) like 440 RR says. I have read that the Wells regulator is actually a good thing.

The term isolated field makes more sense since there is only one field coil. Thanks for the clarification.

 

[WileE]

Actually Standard used to be THE "standard", especially "Blue Streak." Now they ARE part of Echlin. And I don't agree on Borg Warner, either, much of their stuff is chineso. I guess the point is "ya just can't get good ......" anymore LOL

How sad... but true. Yep, back in the day, we used alot of Standard & B-W replacement parts. I'm glad I don't have a shop anymore.