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WHAT all has to be replaced on 63 Polara for disc brake conversion?

RUMBLON

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I am getting ready to restore my 63 Polara vert. The 383 is out and its times to start cleaning up the engine bay for spring paint season when it warms., I am also going to do the brakes and convert to disc brakes and all new master cylinder/ booster, ect. what all has to be replaced to use disc brakes? I see osme kits on ebay have new spindles and some dont?

what have you guys used and whats best for the conversion?

Thanks
RUMBLON
 
i did an a-body conversion. required spindles, brackets, hoses, rotors and calipers plus a realignment. don't stop worth a crap. a friend of mine did a wilwood; brackets, calipers, rotors, and hoses. he likes it.
 
i did an a-body conversion. required spindles, brackets, hoses, rotors and calipers plus a realignment. don't stop worth a crap. a friend of mine did a wilwood; brackets, calipers, rotors, and hoses. he likes it.


Really, any oe else having trouble with stock or standard disc brakes. Isnt wilwood very pricy?

RUMBLON
 
I went with SSBC,now can stop from over 130 MPH at the track without ANY issues:VB toast:
 

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I bought the disc conversion for my 64 polara 500, came with everything, but the booster brackests stuck the mc out so far I could not stand it. So I took off the bracket, put it right on the fire wall, with the factory backing plate, and what I had to do next may not be what your willing to do. The 4 mounting holes needed to be enlarged just a tad, no biggie there, but the the backing plate hole needed to be enlarged also, thats what you may not want to do. Then the booster slid right in, the pedal has 2 holes, 1 for manual and the other for power and thats the bottom hole on the pedal. You may want to get an adjustable rod to fine tunethe pedal travel. Next I got a Wilwood 1 inch mc, the mc that comes with the kit was fugly, bolted the mc to the booster, got a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve, plumed all the lines with stainless, hard and the 3 flex lines. Then I bledd them sob's about more times than I care, and they now work GREAT.

Now lets get to the meat of this. The first booster didn't seem to work at all so I got another one and fought getting any good pedal. Then I bought a reverse bleeder, that damn thing aint worth the box it was shipped in. Went back to bleeding the old fashioned way, pump and hold. Then I gravity bled, then tried a residual valve on the rear line, took it out cause it made the pedal worse. The first Wilwood mc was 1 1/8 and so after making alot of phone calls and talking with some members here on FBBO, I switched to a Wilwood 1 inch and bingo I got brakes that will send your fillings flying out if you slam on it. The kit is what you'll find on ebay for around 4-600 bucks and so it should be easy to find. Here's a few pics...... Never mind on the pics, seems that they are just to big do be loaded onto this forum, sorry.
 
i did an a-body conversion. required spindles, brackets, hoses, rotors and calipers plus a realignment. don't stop worth a crap. a friend of mine did a wilwood; brackets, calipers, rotors, and hoses. he likes it.

The hoses do not come with the Wilwood kit. They are, however, available.
 
i did an a-body conversion. required spindles, brackets, hoses, rotors and calipers plus a realignment. don't stop worth a crap. a friend of mine did a wilwood; brackets, calipers, rotors, and hoses. he likes it.
The "A" body conversion also requires a disk/drum master cylinder and proportioning valve. Sounds like you forgot one of the most important parts. If you're trying to activate disk brakes with your stock drum master cylinder there's no wonder why its stopping poorly. The "A" body conversion usually works very well.
 
i did an a-body conversion. required spindles, brackets, hoses, rotors and calipers plus a realignment. don't stop worth a crap. a friend of mine did a wilwood; brackets, calipers, rotors, and hoses. he likes it.

I did the a-body conversion on my 66 belvedere with a 440 and it stops fantastic. This is basically the same brake system mopar used thoughout the 70's and 80's. Parts were cheap and it's all mopar. Since upgrading my 66 I helped two other friends upgrade one b-body and one a-body and both stopped very well. It's surprising to hear you had a problem.
 
anytime you switch to disc from drum you need to upgrade master and prop valve setup.you will need a master set for disc,and a prop vale that gives 70/30 split or adjuster valves for the rear brake to make the car stop correctly.other wise you are sending too small of an amout of fluid to the calipers.factory drum cars run diverter blocks,they are not prop valves.very common mistake to forget this upgrade.
 
I did a A-Body disc brake conversion to my '62 Max Wedge (678hp) and it stops on a dime, no problems at all. Wilwood setups are very over priced, and if you need a part for you wilwood setup on the road, good luck. The A-body stuff is found at ANY parts store and very inexpensive...........
 
I was looking at Speedway motors tonight and they have brand new a-body spindles for $299!

You can get an entire front brake setup from them for Mopars and they even include the splash shields.
 
I put the kit from Jeg's on my 65' Coronet. Easy bolt on! Mine where for non power disc though. It looks to me that SSBC made them for Jeg's because they look exactly the same.
 
I also have the SSBC setup on my '65. Great brakes.
 
No question.......all these "kits" are very good braking systems. But like I said earlier, use the A-body stuff, it's cheap and readily available almost anywhere. You can buy everything NEW from your local parts store, except the spindles an proportioning block. You can find these at any swap meet. You can also upgrade to the 11.75" rotors and calipers from the older Cordobas' also readily available NEW from your local parts store...Then if you need something while on the road........just run to the closest parts store, buy it, re-install it, an your on your way. No waiting for some part to come in the mail 3-5 days later....use a little grey matter here.......it's cheap, easy, an simple, honest..........
 
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