What amperage altenator do I need?

[easymotorsports]

I have a 1972 Satellite Sebring, 440/727 combination, factory rallye gauge cluster with tach and radio. I have built the 440/727, it is a street car, weekend cruiser.
I have added a single 'sucker' electric fan, a electric jegs waterpump, and a Holley Blue electric fuel pump. The battery has been moved to the trunk.
What amperage altenator do you suggest? Also do you know if one off another mopar vehicle would work? Thanks

 

[67 coronet]

with all those electric add ons shoot for about a 90 amp aftermarket.one wire should work great.tuff stuff or some other good brand.jegs,summit and several other companys sell em.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

no matter the max output alternator, but the iddle capacity... if you are able to find an alt able to give around 60 amps or so iddling, your car will be happy.

the stuff you are adding will suck the same load no matter the speed. They are fixed loads. So I would get focus on the iddle capacity of the alt

 

[Dreadl0ck]

I've put down an order on this one http://www.summitracing.com/dom/parts/tff-8509resp/overview/

Got about the same mods as you on a 440/727 combo.

 

[Sixpactogo]

With all the added amps, you should think about bypassing the amp gauge and replace it with a voltmeter.

 

[dvw]

Late model Dodge truck alternators used in the early 90's bolt on with a pulley swap. As I remember they are 110 amp. The wiring hooks up the same as well. I would run a new output wire from the alternator output to the starter relay (large bolt on terminal. The amp gauge will no longer function. The firewall plug won't melt either. All the charging current flows through the prehistoric spade terminals there, not good.
Doug

 

[nm9stheham]

Late model Dodge truck alternators used in the early 90's bolt on with a pulley swap. As I remember they are 110 amp. The wiring hooks up the same as well. I would run a new output wire from the alternator output to the starter relay (large bolt on terminal. The amp gauge will no longer function. The firewall plug won't melt either. All the charging current flows through the prehistoric spade terminals there, not good.
Doug

Yes, very much so, do as said above with this load and distrbute the load from the starter relay big terminal to things like the water pump; the original bulkhead connections will not take the added load of things like the water pump. (And fuse the wiring to the new loads like the pumps.) You ought to do the ammeter bypass with this mod too as with the routing of the alternator output to the starter relay lug, now all the current to the interior of the car (and to things like the headlights, brake lights, and heater blower with the stock wiring) will now be flowing backwards through the ammeter and the ammeter readings will be abnormal.

 

[ilm65]

Yes, very much so, do as said above with this load and distrbute the load from the starter relay big terminal to things like the water pump; the original bulkhead connections will not take the added load of things like the water pump. (And fuse the wiring to the new loads like the pumps.) You ought to do the ammeter bypass with this mod too as with the routing of the alternator output to the starter relay lug, now all the current to the interior of the car (and to things like the headlights, brake lights, and heater blower with the stock wiring) will now be flowing backwards through the ammeter and the ammeter readings will be abnormal.

In addition, check out Mad Electric's web site--A TON of valuable information there on how and why you should upgrade the charging wire and eliminate the amp gauge. By the way, I have a very similar set-up--440/727, twin Spal fans, electric fuel pump, 900 CCA battery in trunk; I went with the Tuff Stuff 100 Amp natural finish--WORKS GREAT!

 

[wyrmrider]

lots of good suggestions
some Mopars came with amp guage bypassed- check your service manual for options
do run larger wires and you MUST change to larger fuseable links or fuzes
NAPA and others have boxes
you do NOT want your wires to be fuses