What does RB stand for on a 440?

[j-c-c-62]

RB 383 was 1 year only, 1958.

A 325 is a poly engine, and a hemi version, however I've never heard of it described as an A engine, but I never looked into it.

Our 1959 Chrysler Wagon had an RB 383 "Golden Lion" 2bbl

 

[Krooser]

I've seen factory cranks break at 600 but never seen or heard of a China stroker crank breaking at 800+.

And the R+D on the crank manufacturing is Done in the USA, then actually made " over there".
There was a poor machining reputation back when they first came out.

Well one of the shops that has done machine work for me will not guarantee any engine built with an E*gle or *oh* crank...maybe more.

Others will I'm sure.


Sure you can cruise around town, go to your local show and shine and never have an issue. But put one of those in a hard working truck, actually hauling heavy loads, and see how they do.

Tom Molnar's cranks are pretty good as are Scat. But I have seen, in person, mis machined throws, snouts, bad balance jobs, etc.

I have had work done at five engine shops in the last 10 years. I ask everyone when they last saw a Mopar crank break...the answer is never. Even though every one of those shops are Chevy-centric.

I used to transport automotive parts throughout the industry both aftermarket and OEM. When I loaded freshly heat treated BBC cranks in Lansing, MI headed for Lunati my paperwork included the heat treat specs for every crankshaft on the load. Have you seen that paperwork from FuManChu?

Me neither.

Sure...stock cranks CAN break but how many do you see with zero miles? Most have tens of thousands of miles on them...or more. Apples and oranges.

Run those China cranks 150,000 miles and get back to me.

My last race motor had a Made in USA made billet crank that was built in 1993. I believe the block would break before the crank would give out despite the age of the crank.

That engine had ONE China part...a CVF water pump . Nothing else. I did use Israeli made bearings.

I understand US made parts are expensive. But when did we decide that the cheapest parts are the best we can afford?

Most machinists cringe when they have machine a Chrysler V-8 block because they chew up the tooling. The shop that did my 354 Hemi used three cutters in eight holes. He told me not to come back ( with a smile).

Buy what you want...but just try giving your sweetheart a plastic diamond after telling her it's a real diamond.

You won't need to wait 100,000 miles for an answer.

 

[hdwrench]

just a suggestion, locate one of these and get a copy . a vast wealth of knowledge, even if you don’t work on your engine the reference to parts , casting numbers where they can be found etc . i found mine on amazon, i think it was $30-40 bucks delivered…you won’t regret it !!!

 

[IT'S DYNAMITE]

Whats an RB 440?

You have to also remember that in 1960 and 1961 there was a 361 raised block used in the Chrysler line of large body cars that were "raised block" and had crankshafts that were about 1" longer due to the cast iron torqueflite trans until 1962 when the aluminum torqueflite was introduce and the end of the RB 361. The 440 did not come along until 1965 and was mostly used as the "performance" motor. The RB 361 was a replacement for the 350 engine (LB) which ended in 1958.

 

[68-500]

Wow I’ve head tale of raised block 361. 3.75 stroke with 3.91 bore?

 

[pnora]

Never heard of a RB 361. As far as I knew the B 361 replaced the B 350 and they were both low decks.

 

[RemCharger]

Well one of the shops that has done machine work for me will not guarantee any engine built with an E*gle or *oh* crank...maybe more.

Others will I'm sure.


Sure you can cruise around town, go to your local show and shine and never have an issue. But put one of those in a hard working truck, actually hauling heavy loads, and see how they do.

Tom Molnar's cranks are pretty good as are Scat. But I have seen, in person, mis machined throws, snouts, bad balance jobs, etc.

I have had work done at five engine shops in the last 10 years. I ask everyone when they last saw a Mopar crank break...the answer is never. Even though every one of those shops are Chevy-centric.

I used to transport automotive parts throughout the industry both aftermarket and OEM. When I loaded freshly heat treated BBC cranks in Lansing, MI headed for Lunati my paperwork included the heat treat specs for every crankshaft on the load. Have you seen that paperwork from FuManChu?

Me neither.

Sure...stock cranks CAN break but how many do you see with zero miles? Most have tens of thousands of miles on them...or more. Apples and oranges.

Run those China cranks 150,000 miles and get back to me.

My last race motor had a Made in USA made billet crank that was built in 1993. I believe the block would break before the crank would give out despite the age of the crank.

That engine had ONE China part...a CVF water pump . Nothing else. I did use Israeli made bearings.

I understand US made parts are expensive. But when did we decide that the cheapest parts are the best we can afford?

Most machinists cringe when they have machine a Chrysler V-8 block because they chew up the tooling. The shop that did my 354 Hemi used three cutters in eight holes. He told me not to come back ( with a smile).

Buy what you want...but just try giving your sweetheart a plastic diamond after telling her it's a real diamond.

You won't need to wait 100,000 miles for an answer.

If the choice was available to me, I'd run USA made cranks all day long.
But on the flip side,,,,, how many people just on this site alone, run an offshore stroker crank. Tons .
I will agree though, I've never seen someone put 150,000 miles on a hard working truck, hauling heavy loads, with an aftermarket BBD crank. Maybe you're on to something.