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What is the best way to take off the oil pressure switch?

Dominic Torreto

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Yeah I know this sounds stupid but I have actually been busting my beehind to get this sucker off the last couple of days. I tried using a 1 inch socket and it was to small. Then tried a 1 and 1/16 socket and it was to big. I tried some wrenches same thing. Couldnt use pliers no space.
 
You generally don't have room for channel locks if the engine is in the car.

You probably need an "oil sender" socket.
 
if youre talking about the oil pressure switch at the back of the engine, nestled close to the firewall, i used a stubby 7/16" wrench. theres a nut under that bell lookin' thing that you can get a wrench on. ya dont get much of a "swing' on the wrench, but thats how i got mine out!
 
He did not state for what year car or engine size he was working on, so we are all likely giving answers compared to what we have. The later models are the round, 'bell top' style. I would definately use the wrench on the bottom...maybe even sacrifice an el-cheapo and put a 45 degree bend in it. Channel locks on this type can be done around the lip, but runs the chance of crushing the soft body.

The one for my `66 Poly 318 has no nut feature underneath. It is not bell, or dome shaped, but is more robust. It has flats...along with notches (for the special socket I'm sure). I couldn't see paying for something I would use (hopefully) only once. An 8" or 10" channel locks will get back there...like I mentioned before - just not much turning room. Might even have to come at it from the top. Otherwise, you may get lucky and get the open end of the 1" wrench on the 'flats' to get it loosened. But he's right, the box end just doesn't work.

This link shows the different styles:

http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,car...2L_318_cubic_inch_V8_Oil_Pressure_Switch.html
 
He did not state for what year car or engine size he was working on, so we are all likely giving answers compared to what we have. The later models are the round, 'bell top' style. I would definately use the wrench on the bottom...maybe even sacrifice an el-cheapo and put a 45 degree bend in it. Channel locks on this type can be done around the lip, but runs the chance of crushing the soft body.

The one for my `66 Poly 318 has no nut feature underneath. It is not bell, or dome shaped, but is more robust. It has flats...along with notches (for the special socket I'm sure). I couldn't see paying for something I would use (hopefully) only once. An 8" or 10" channel locks will get back there...like I mentioned before - just not much turning room. Might even have to come at it from the top. Otherwise, you may get lucky and get the open end of the 1" wrench on the 'flats' to get it loosened. But he's right, the box end just doesn't work.

This link shows the different styles:

http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,car...2L_318_cubic_inch_V8_Oil_Pressure_Switch.html


Its a 70 charger with big block
 
Difference in oil sending unit is (switch-dome type)for oil gauge,sending unit requiring special socket is for oil light.
 
i bought the socket in1980 back then it was $14 but i have gotten my money out of it !
 
Buy the socket and use it. When I was looking for one (sending unit) for my 440, I bought two incorrect ones, one was close but had huge threads on the bottom, the other had tiny threads and fits the left side but is very tall-probably correct for some engines. I noticed my parts motor has one I want but I will need the socket to get it off. It's funny how such a simple part could have so many variations.
 
Difference in oil sending unit is (switch-dome type)for oil gauge,sending unit requiring special socket is for oil light.

Correct and if is a 70 BB Charger it should have the dome type for a gauge. The socket is for the small unit for the light. Dome unit takes a 1/2" ,I think, open end wrench.
 

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